Jump to content

Engine Tick - 2015 GMC Sierra 5.3

tobinstetson
 Share

Recommended Posts

PackerChev Enthusiast

PackerChev

Posted
Posted

It’s located between the chassis fuel line and the high pressure fuel pump.

 

It seems to have done the trick on mine. I’ll keep you posted as I drive it throughout the next week. The TSB was PIP5395D. 

  • Replies 586
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

WesternMike
WesternMike

My 2014 Silverado is at 120,000 and running just as good as day one, not one issue with it. I know there’s problems out there, but complaining to others saying “should of bought a ford” doesn’t help

Colossus
Colossus

You'll be leaving blue oval quick enough.. they are not any better.

Crafty34
Crafty34

Just got this from a buddy at my local dealer. Looks like Chevy is aware and they are working on a fix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted Images

jasinger Enthusiast

jasinger

Posted
Posted

do you have a copy of the TSB document? i just tried looking it up and can't find anything useful online

ChristopherDB Enthusiast

ChristopherDB

Posted
Posted

Is this the same tick that everybody else is experiencing? I have a 6.2L 

 

 Dealer said is it fuel injectors but the tick gets faster at higher RPMs and when I let off the gas at a high RPM the tick remains fast and doesn't slow down so I don't think it is noisy injectors because the tick would have slowed when I let off the throttle. 

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

probably not.. after all.. the GMT-800s and 900s got by just fine with ticking and cold start knock..

  • 2 weeks later...
jasinger Enthusiast

jasinger

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/18/2018 at 8:19 PM, PackerChev said:

It’s located between the chassis fuel line and the high pressure fuel pump.

 

It seems to have done the trick on mine. I’ll keep you posted as I drive it throughout the next week. The TSB was PIP5395D. 

Hey Parker, any updates on if the tick is gone?

Edited by jasinger
PackerChev Enthusiast

PackerChev

Posted
Posted

The tick is mostly gone. And by that I mean that I can hear it very faintly once in a while but it seems that it goes to V8 mode or upshifts right away. If I didn’t know about the tick I wouldn’t know it was there. Much improved!

jasinger Enthusiast

jasinger

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, PackerChev said:

The tick is mostly gone. And by that I mean that I can hear it very faintly once in a while but it seems that it goes to V8 mode or upshifts right away. If I didn’t know about the tick I wouldn’t know it was there. Much improved!

thanks for the info, I think I'm going to head to the dealership soon. I've been convincing myself some days that its fine and other days it bugs the hell out of me

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, jasinger said:

thanks for the info, I think I'm going to head to the dealership soon. I've been convincing myself some days that its fine and other days it bugs the hell out of me

I'm the same way.....I'm sure it's just as noticeable every day, but there are days I really notice it and days it just must blend into all the other background noise

jasinger Enthusiast

jasinger

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, bkesting said:

I'm the same way.....I'm sure it's just as noticeable every day, but there are days I really notice it and days it just must blend into all the other background noise

Yeah and also partially because I'm a little reluctant to get into it with the dealership. first try to explain it and hopefully replicate it for them during a drive, then also going through the procedures of them wanting to replace/check other things like the valvetrain or exhaust even though people have confirmed that it wasn't the issue. I was going to wait until there was a clear cut "fix it" answer that I could bring up with them, so maybe this TSB is it

ChristopherDB Enthusiast

ChristopherDB

Posted
Posted

I have noticed that when I hear the tick if I pull a hard left or hard right (I mean really hard) the ticking stops while I'm turning. I tested this going 40 MPH in manual gear at 4k RPM on a two lane road. I was in the right lane and then pulled hard left all the way to the left lane. The ticking was silent until I straightened out. 

  • Like 1
MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted
I have noticed that when I hear the tick if I pull a hard left or hard right (I mean really hard) the ticking stops while I'm turning. I tested this going 40 MPH in manual gear at 4k RPM on a two lane road. I was in the right lane and then pulled hard left all the way to the left lane. The ticking was silent until I straightened out. 


It’s jostling that causes it to come and go. I’ve had to slam on brakes before and that caused it to start then I hit a bump later and it goes away. I’ve heard it ticking and then just completely stop out of nowhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ChristopherDB Enthusiast

ChristopherDB

Posted
Posted

So there's 18 pages of this but it seems like there's many different parts that were replaced. We still don't know exactly what it is? 

 

Just like the other two posters earlier today, I'm reluctant to go to the dealer because it's an entire day of my time and they'll either say it's normal, can't reproduce, within specs,  etc.

jasinger Enthusiast

jasinger

Posted
Posted

I decided to finally call a dealership yesterday to make an appointment, one that I've had good luck with service before even though its a different one than where I bought the truck. I'm just hoping that the tick will be audible that day, and I'm still debating on whether I want to mention the TSB or just let them go through their own process without my input

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, jasinger said:

I decided to finally call a dealership yesterday to make an appointment, one that I've had good luck with service before even though its a different one than where I bought the truck. I'm just hoping that the tick will be audible that day, and I'm still debating on whether I want to mention the TSB or just let them go through their own process without my input

Keep us posted on the outcome

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...