Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
11 hours ago, RACERX7775 said:

Search Denali hybrid cluster. All the info is there. I just litterally went through that thread.

 

RWaddell this is the ebay info for you.

Screenshot_20190101-215258_Samsung Internet.jpg

Found a 2017 gasser model if you're still looking.  eBay item number: 223301116727

 

 

5c2ced8283aa7_ScreenShot2019-01-02at10_55_53AM.thumb.png.91b6e4780cfddefabb19ea40780cd3cb.png

Posted
7 hours ago, SS502 said:

False advertising, yes it sure is. But just to make sure it's clear, whether or not the cluster is brand new or used, it will need programing/re-programing to function properly.

They all need programming. The difference is if it’s new and never used it’s $100 less for Chris to program it. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Right, so he should ask for a $100 refund for the extra cost to reprogram.  Depending on how much he paid for the cluster 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, Donnation said:

They all need programming. The difference is if it’s new and never used it’s $100 less for Chris to program it. 

Yeah I didn’t word that correctly. I just didn’t want anyone thinking it was $100 to do used cluster, my bad. That and someone new to this mod might have thought a new cluster didn’t require programming. Best mod I’ve done to date.

Edited by SS502
Posted
On 1/1/2019 at 8:54 PM, RACERX7775 said:

I thought i could only get the red Denali cluster for my 14 LTZ. A little late now, but oh well. I never even knew the blue was available for my 14.

You can't get blue for the 14-15 Silverado trucks if you just swap out the gauge cluster.  You would need to swap out the HMI and radio module to match the newer model year cluster that you would buy (16-18 Tahoe or Suburban) and they would need to be programmed by Chris.

Posted (edited)

Um, i dont think thats true at all. Or im not following you. The HMI has nothing to do with color. And my radio and all switches and controls arr blue with the chevy mylink.

 

So, i bought a red 2015 denali cluster.

Having it programmed by Chris. I Can buy the stepper motors,  rpm gauge, and my speedo gauges from a  16 denali that are blue or the 17 18 denali which are all blue. The cluster middle screen will still be red, but thats ok with me. That will make everything blue except the center screen in the cluster, which is red.

Edited by RACERX7775
Posted
5 minutes ago, RACERX7775 said:

Um, i dont think thats true at all. Or im not following you. The HMI has nothing to do with color. And my radio and all switches and controls arr blue with the chevy mylink.

 

So, i bought a red 2015 denali cluster.

Having it programmed by Chris.

I Can buy the stepper motors and  rpm and                          speedo gauges from a  16 denali that are                  blue or the 17 18 denali which are all blue. 

The cluster middle screen will still be red, but                    thats ok with me.

That will make everything blue except the center             screen in the cluster, which is red.

That is correct. 

 

What I meant was if you want the middle "digital" screen and gauges above it to be blue you need to buy the blue cluster from a 16-18 Tahoe.  Then to make that cluster work in your 14-15 truck you would need to upgrade the HMI, radio, and USB to the same year.

 

If you are okay with the digital part of the screen being red (which includes the 4 small gauges above it) you can use the one you bought.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ah. I thought that i could only get a cluster from the same year truck as mine. Which eliminated the 16-18 tahoe cluster.

Posted

And im not doing hmi stuff. To much work with MVI with all my outside cameras and audio to mess around with another hmi.

Posted

You may upgrade to a 2016 GAS cluster (red or blue) ONLY IF we've done your Car Play retrofit on your 2014-2015.5. ALL OF THIS NEEDS TO BE SETUP TO WORK TOGETHER hence the approved parts list we have for the Car Play Retrofit (have had issues with module mismatches and this eliminates that).

 

This is explained in the part number post we ask everyone to read on page 29. If you have further questions on this aspect of this retrofit please contact us from our website so we don't further muddy the water here with more posts and unintentional misinformation.

 

Thank you!  

Posted
I know. Thats why i have to stick with the red cluster. 

That wasn’t directed at you just everyone posting in general lol :)
Posted

Another wasted post here. But i have to say, its unbelievable that there is so many different options here on this.

Posted

Chris,

 

I shot an email in via your site shortly after 6pm EST yesterday regarding a part number for a "Diesel Denali cluster" for my Chevrolet Diesel.  I did not see a reply (inbox or junk box) so I just wanted to reach out to see if you had gotten it?  It seems y'all are pretty spot on so it had me doubting it made it through.  If I have found the correct part number then I know where I can pick one up immediately. 

 

Thank you,

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...