Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
5 hours ago, Donnation said:

I would love some help.   I don't have any experience taking apart a dash like this.  Can you tell we where to start?  I have pry tools but don't know where to pry first.  Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you so much.

Do you have the truck or suv?

Posted

No there are no 2015 blue gauges... you can use the part number list.. in this post LOL 

Posted

Thought since it was the suv... 

 

Chris, im litterally 2 mins away from shipping my cluster to you. I have my order number on the box. Should i send signiture required? It will be insured too.

Posted
Thought since it was the suv... 
 
Chris, im litterally 2 mins away from shipping my cluster to you. I have my order number on the box. Should i send signiture required? It will be insured too.

Nope you’re good :)
Posted (edited)

Ok. Also no info in box...  forgot and i sealed it. Its on its way!!!!! Just need the vin which is attached with my order....

 

And its off to you.  Will be there on wednesday. Thank you!!!

Edited by RACERX7775
Posted

Have a question about our 2014. I looked at all of the GM part #'s referenced to work for the 14- Early 15... and can not find a single cluster... plenty of 15.5 and up clusters on the web. 

 

So looking at the chart... the 2015.5 and up clusters will not work period? Thanks! 

Posted

Dont worry, if none around right now, there will be soon.  Everyday, there is another one that gets stolen or wrecked.. Unfortunately....

Posted (edited)
45 minutes ago, AlljackedupZ71 said:

Have a question about our 2014. I looked at all of the GM part #'s referenced to work for the 14- Early 15... and can not find a single cluster... plenty of 15.5 and up clusters on the web. 

 

So looking at the chart... the 2015.5 and up clusters will not work period? Thanks! 

I would caution relying on only online posts/listings only.  If you haven't reached out to dealers, or other businesses like Specmo, Pace Performance, etc that sell clusters, I would do so.  As Chris already posted previously that some say "New" but aren't and have some sort of damage.  If you really want to upgrade, contact WAMS from their website about upgrading to Apple Car Play/Android Auto to get 2016 to work in your 2014.

Edited by BlkSS
Posted

Here is what Chris posted earlier today in order to eliminate questions and give people direction.  Please READ.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, BlkSS said:

Here is what Chris posted earlier today in order to eliminate questions and give people direction.  Please READ.

 

 

 

 

Yes, this is what I was referencing earlier.... I ran all of these #s... not one to be found on ebay ect lol.

 

2014- EARLY 2015 GAS US SPEC.JPG

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, AlljackedupZ71 said:

 

Yes, this is what I was referencing earlier.... I ran all of these #s... not one to be found on ebay ect lol.

 

2014- EARLY 2015 GAS US SPEC.JPG

I posted that for anyone who may find this thread before finding Chris's.  I noted "Please READ" so hopefully people will use that thread for pertinent questions instead of muddying it up with useless comments or questions that would be answered by READING.

 

On my previous post where I quoted you @AlljackedupZ71, that is why I suggested directly contacting dealers or other businesses like Specmo, Pace Performance, etc INSTEAD of relying on ebay, etc.  Also why I mentioned to contact WAMS from their website to see what all you need to make a 2016 cluster fit in your 2014.

 

Also, Specmo offers cheap 1-day shipping as I have purchased from them before and was very happy.  I've also used the dealership and ebay for a cluster as well but recommend Specmo.  I did call Pace and they were comparable to Specmo but Specmo was new versus refurbished from Pace and Specmo was still slightly cheaper, even after the 1-day shipping.

Edited by BlkSS
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 298 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...