Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2014 silverado with OPT7 5000k LED's in the Fogs.

output 100x better than stock and match my 5000k in the oem projectors perfectly

$35 shipped

 

pic below showing fogs on only. really happy with these

27x1q4i.jpg

 

looks great where did you buy? do you have a link?

 

thanks

Posted

An oem wiring harness to access rap, battery power, crank accessory power and ground. $45 is a cheap way to insure we don't short something tapping it or catch on fire.

 

2d3c22d840a7911b5533979e4df86a1f.jpg

 

$45 plus shipping

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

An oem wiring harness to access rap, battery power, crank accessory power and ground. $45 is a cheap way to insure we don't short something tapping it or catch on fire.

 

2d3c22d840a7911b5533979e4df86a1f.jpg

 

$45 plus shipping

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Tell us more. What p/n? What are you going to use it for?

Posted

I have this harness providing trigger power for a relay to a viair onboard air compressor and a fass 150. I have it powering floor led lights, lights in my tool box that I tapped into the bed rail lights. It powers a hard wire USB charger to power an iPhone 6 Plus that I use for my tuner and the 12v air valves for my train horns and tank drain system.

 

 

 

 

Tell us more. What p/n? What are you going to use it for?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

That seems like a lot of $$$ when the parts are relatively cheap.

Edited by wuznme
Posted (edited)

The parts aren't all that expensive but the time it takes to solder every joint, heat shrink or braided shield every harness and pin and to offer replacement for even abuse is the difference. Homemade improperly crimped harnesses will short under excessive load or pull out of the connector. I've written up plenty and offered documentation to anyone who wants to build their own.

 

The thing is that some people can't or don't want to do it. If you want support with wiring or prints I give that too. These aren't assembly built. I hand build, test and stand behind every one. It's not just putting them together. Anyone can crimp with a pair of plyers or use the wrong terminal for different gauge wires. I put the proper pieces together at the same price as buying them at wholesale pricing from gm ($40-$50 based on other forum members) and my wire far exceeds theirs in friction resistance and better conduction. Buying wholesale from terminal suppliers is def cheaper if you have the proper crimper, solder and skill set.

 

If you are an average joe with some projects, buying a $30 crimper and soldering iron isn't practical. If you are capable, then build your own and save. If you want to have support and warranty, I'm happy to assist. I value my time and think it's fair.

 

That seems like a lot of $$$ when the parts are relatively cheap.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited by iamdanieltuck
  • Like 5
Posted

Great thread guys, couple questions

 

1. Question on Fog light mod, is that the same mod that keeps fogs on when you hold on bright temporarily?

2. Rail caps, thank you sir Ive been wanting these since I bought my 14, drives me nuts! looks like they match up good???? I'm gonna order a set

  • Like 2
Posted

Great thread guys, couple questions

 

1. Question on Fog light mod, is that the same mod that keeps fogs on when you hold on bright temporarily?

2. Rail caps, thank you sir Ive been wanting these since I bought my 14, drives me nuts! looks like they match up good???? I'm gonna order a set

Yes - Fogs stay on when high beam is on.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

looks nice. I've been meaning to look for some that would match my tungsten metallic.

 

I'd take any extra and do your steering wheel also.

Edited by bndawgs
Posted

looks nice. I've been meaning to look for some that would match my tungsten metallic.

 

I'd take any extra and do your steering wheel also.

Darn it good point! I crumpled and tossed out the extra pieces lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for?  Appreciate the help 
    • Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx   I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN.   Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined?   thank you    
    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...