Jump to content

2015 Silverado What Tire Offset for Flush with Flares?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 4WD 5.3L V8 Z71 LT Midnight Edition (I'm sure you've seen them plenty by now) and I'm looking to lift it and put 35's on. I'm planning to go with the RC 6" lift and Toyo MT 35x12.5xR18. My main objective is to be able to mount fender flares which I believe extrude 2" from standard and I would like my tires to be nearly flush if not a slight amount outward. So I'm having trouble figuring out the numbers to predict the tires being flush with the flares. I know the RC lift brings them out 1.5" (assuming I get 1.5" spacer in rear as well). So with this tread, and offset from the lift, would I need offset wheels in your opinion to become flush? Also, please critique this lift if you think something is wrong or would be better.

 

91fp0z.jpg

 

Thanks,

Ser Menalak

Posted

You may want to post your current wheel offset, as well as what wheel you are moving to if it is changing.

Posted

You may want to post your current wheel offset, as well as what wheel you are moving to if it is changing.

Thanks for the reply. The current wheel offset is just the standard for 2015 Silverados which I thought was a 0 offset. The wheels I'm moving to is the part I don't know because I don't know what offset I would need. So I was thinking once that was figured out or if a wheel in the correct ballpark was recommended, I could then choose it.

Posted

Thanks for the reply. The current wheel offset is just the standard for 2015 Silverados which I thought was a 0 offset. The wheels I'm moving to is the part I don't know because I don't know what offset I would need. So I was thinking once that was figured out or if a wheel in the correct ballpark was recommended, I could then choose it.

Ah. Best thing to do is make some other decisions first. Decide on which lift - if it is the RC for sure, the great. Then decide if you are willing to cut the bumper skirt or fender liners, potentially even the front fenders. After that, call the lift manufacturer and find out what wheel offset they say will work with a 35x12.5R18 within the limits of you cutting tolerance (bumper, liner, fender, none). Tires can have an impact particularly if the side lugs are aggressive. The Toyo MT does have a slightly aggressive side, but the outer lug is tapered so likely not an issue.

Posted

I have no experience or personal knowledge of the subject, but I'll tell you from browsing these forums for the past few weeks since I bought my truck, I've seen several mentions of the RC lifts being sub-par, budget, crap, etc. lol

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...