Jump to content

K2 Diablo Tune

sdog4127

By sdog4127
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crstfr Enthusiast

Crstfr

Posted
Posted

if you run the 87 oct tune, is it safe to run 89 oct?...

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

sdog4127
sdog4127

I am planning on putting a spreadsheet together of all parameters so I can easily track what I change and how it performs real world. Not sure when I'll have the time to get this done, but it's my pla

jamoka3
jamoka3

I have been Looking to start a list of anyone running DiabloSport's inTune i2 Performance Programmer - i2030. I'm very Curious to know what others have done/ tried and what results they have received

Sierra Jon
Sierra Jon

So I messed with the i2 some more. I don't know enough about some of the parameters to mess with them (like advance or retard spark etc).  I think what I like most is the 91 tune with 20% throttle bo

AZ_SS Enthusiast

AZ_SS

Posted
Posted (edited)

if you run the 87 oct tune, is it safe to run 89 oct?...

Yes, thats what I am currently doing.

Edited by AZ_SS
  • Like 1
Crstfr Enthusiast

Crstfr

Posted
Posted

Thanks AZ.. i always wondered that... ..

jamoka3 Enthusiast

jamoka3

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Here is a post I made in another Diablo thread regarding TM:

 

The first time I tuned with the inTune i2 I turned upshift TM (torque management) off and went with the firm shift setting. While the shifts were firmer, they were randomly firmer. Every so often the 1-2 shift would be really firm and then sometimes soft. After doing more research on upshift TM I decided to turn it back on (stock setting). I think the shifting is more consistent now. Partial throttle shifts are a little more firm then stock and WOT shifts are firm but not harsh. This is what Mike on the DIablosport forum said about upshift TM:

"we often recommend leaving the upshift abuse mode TM enabled as it can lead to sloppy shift feel when disabled, as you may have discovered. TM on the engine side is already disabled in the tunes."

"this is TM specific to when the trans upshifts in 'abuse mode' meaning heavy throttle/WOT, leaving it on allows the pcm/tcm to make the shift smoother, turning it off removes any timing/throttle adjustments to smooth out the tune."

It sounds like there are two TM settings. One on the engine side and one on the transmission side. The engine TM is turned off in the canned ECM settings (87 or 91 tune). The transmission TM (upshift TM setting) is the only user selectable TM option and is under the advanced TCM settings. I plan to leave it on as I think it feels better and really don't see any reason to turn it off as I don't think it affects throttle response (power to the ground). Appears it simply pulls timing between shifts and turning it off can potentially cause slopping shifting.

 

I originally ran with TM off (disabled) and also noticed strange shift habits, normally under light load or a range of 20~40mph while light driving around town.

So I changed my original parameters from this :

12/21/2016

The settings I have used on my 2016 Silverado 5.3L 6 speed Auto w/ 3.42 gears are,

87 octane Performance tune.

Firm Shift Transmission tune - ON

DOD (AFM )- OFF

TORQUE Management - (OFF)

Throttle boost - (range is 0-25% ) I have it set at 3%, *Curious to know if anyone else has messed with this setting?

Adjusted + 50rpm in gear and + 50rpm in neutral and park.

 

Mods- Currently Running K&N Black Hawk Series CAI, w/ a full Banks Performance Stainless Steel cat back.

........................................................................................................................................................................

 

Now: as of 4/11/2017

87 octane Performance tune.

Firm Shift Transmission tune - ON

DOD (AFM )- OFF

TORQUE Management - *(ON)

Throttle boost - (range is 0-25% ) Now I have it set at *10%,

Adjusted + 50 rpm in gear and + 50 rpm in neutral and park.

 

Mods- Currently Running K&N Black Hawk Series CAI, w/ a full Banks Performance Stainless Steel cat back.

 

I did not notice any power lost on up shifts, and with the slight bump in the throttle boost, the truck kinda "feels" quicker?

Edited by jamoka3
  • Like 2
arcasey Enthusiast

arcasey

Posted
Posted

For those of you that have played around with the throttle boost parameter, have you noticed increased engine speed at idle? Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what the parameter does. With the stock tune my truck idles around 550 RPM when in park/neutral and 500 RPM when in gear. With the 87 Octane tune and throttle boost set to 10% the idle speeds change to around 900-1000 in park/neutral and in gear. Is this normal behavior when playing with throttle boost parameters or am I missing something?

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted

For those of you that have played around with the throttle boost parameter, have you noticed increased engine speed at idle? Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what the parameter does. With the stock tune my truck idles around 550 RPM when in park/neutral and 500 RPM when in gear. With the 87 Octane tune and throttle boost set to 10% the idle speeds change to around 900-1000 in park/neutral and in gear. Is this normal behavior when playing with throttle boost parameters or am I missing something?

I used to run 20% throttle boost but right now I'm running torque management off so I turned the boost off (I'm basically just trying to feel what the individual settings are doing). I'm also trying to gain some mpg's back.

 

But to answer your question, when the throttle boost was on I did not notice a change in idle. Is it possible the truck was cold? I did however noticed it shifted higher in the RPM range with throttle boost on. I think what is happening is the throttle position is not being read properly so the tranny acts a little different. What I noticed most was the ease of driving in the highway - very little pedal input needed with throttle boost on for long highway trips. I loved having throttle boost at 20% but like I said, your mpg takes a hit.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

arcasey Enthusiast

arcasey

Posted
Posted

I used to run 20% throttle boost but right now I'm running torque management off so I turned the boost off (I'm basically just trying to feel what the individual settings are doing). I'm also trying to gain some mpg's back.

 

But to answer your question, when the throttle boost was on I did not notice a change in idle. Is it possible the truck was cold? I did however noticed it shifted higher in the RPM range with throttle boost on. I think what is happening is the throttle position is not being read properly so the tranny acts a little different. What I noticed most was the ease of driving in the highway - very little pedal input needed with throttle boost on for long highway trips. I loved having throttle boost at 20% but like I said, your mpg takes a hit.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

When I noticed the increased idle speed I'm sure the truck was warm, or it should have been. I took about a ten mile drive after I changed the tune parameters and it was about 75 degrees last night. I stopped by my buddy's house because he was outside and I was talking to him and that's when I noticed the difference in the idle speed. Also the temp gauge was reading around 210 degrees while doing so. I re-installed the stock tune when I got home and things were normal again. I may try to re-install the 87 Octane tune and adjust the parameters again and see what happens. I was thinking the way the parameter worked was that as soon as the throttle was pressed it would immediately advance X% forward, i.e. would jump from 0% to 10% throttle as soon as pedal was mashed. Mine acted like the throttle position was moved from 0 to 10% and that is the minimum that it would go down to. But then again, maybe I'm not understanding what the parameter actually changes.

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted

 

When I noticed the increased idle speed I'm sure the truck was warm, or it should have been. I took about a ten mile drive after I changed the tune parameters and it was about 75 degrees last night. I stopped by my buddy's house because he was outside and I was talking to him and that's when I noticed the difference in the idle speed. Also the temp gauge was reading around 210 degrees while doing so. I re-installed the stock tune when I got home and things were normal again. I may try to re-install the 87 Octane tune and adjust the parameters again and see what happens. I was thinking the way the parameter worked was that as soon as the throttle was pressed it would immediately advance X% forward, i.e. would jump from 0% to 10% throttle as soon as pedal was mashed. Mine acted like the throttle position was moved from 0 to 10% and that is the minimum that it would go down to. But then again, maybe I'm not understanding what the parameter actually changes.

Right, I think 0% throttle is still 0% if that makes sense. That's the way it felt anyway... I would give it another go and report back if you don't mind.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

arcasey Enthusiast

arcasey

Posted
Posted

Right, I think 0% throttle is still 0% if that makes sense. That's the way it felt anyway... I would give it another go and report back if you don't mind.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

Okay, so after I re-installed the factory tune I installed the 87 Octane tune with the 10% throttle boost and everything seems to be normal now. It must have been a fluke when I changed it last time.

  • Like 2
SPrew94535 Enthusiast

SPrew94535

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

I like it. I can tell there is a little more low end response when I need it. This plus the transmission holding lower gears longer helps a lot with acceleration.

So how high is your idle now at park and in gear with your adjustment

 

I get my tuner later today so trying to figure out the best settings. Im not a hot rodder. Just would like it to have a better idle and get better mpg's and I'll be happy. If anyone can recomend the setting to get that I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

 

Ive got 87, 91 and 93 octane down here and would like to use the 87 or 91 if I have too

Edited by SPrew94535
gone_fishing Enthusiast

gone_fishing

Posted
Posted

So how high is your idle now at park and in gear with your adjustment

 

I get my tuner later today so trying to figure out the best settings. Im not a hot rodder. Just would like it to have a better idle and get better mpg's and I'll be happy. If anyone can recomend the setting to get that I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

 

Ive got 87, 91 and 93 octane down here and would like to use the 87 or 91 if I have too

 

I have my idle RPM in both park and gear set to +50 RPM. I like this setting as it seems to have smoothed out the idle (especially when at a stop in gear with the AC on). I have the throttle boost set to +15% and this helped a lot with throttle response. Throttle boost did not affect my idle any. My fuel economy hasn't gone down any either. In fact my overall MPG is maybe even up a little. I drive mostly highway though.

 

Here is what I have mine set to:

- 87 octane flex tune

- Trans tune firm shift

- DOD off (V4 mode)

- Throttle boost +15%

- Idle park/neutral RPM +50

- Speed limit off

I had upshift torque management turned off and throttle boost at zero originally. I decided to turn upshift TM back on as it seemed to do nothing for throttle response and made for occasionally sloppy shifts. Throttle boost made the most difference. Later found out from the DiabloSport forum that the engine tunes disable engine torque management. It's built into either the 87 or 91 tune. The user selectable TM setting is the upshift TM setting and this is different the the engine torque management. This is what they said on the forum regarding upshift TM:

"we often recommend leaving the upshift abuse mode TM enabled as it can lead to sloppy shift feel when disabled, as you may have discovered. TM on the engine side is already disabled in the tunes."

"this is TM specific to when the trans upshifts in 'abuse mode' meaning heavy throttle/WOT, leaving it on allows the pcm/tcm to make the shift smoother, turning it off removes any timing/throttle adjustments to smooth out the tune."

  • Like 2
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted (edited)

So how high is your idle now at park and in gear with your adjustment

 

I get my tuner later today so trying to figure out the best settings. Im not a hot rodder. Just would like it to have a better idle and get better mpg's and I'll be happy. If anyone can recomend the setting to get that I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

 

Ive got 87, 91 and 93 octane down here and would like to use the 87 or 91 if I have too

I haven't messed with the idle at all yet, but as far as my other settings, I run the 87 octane tune with DOD/AFM off, 3% throttle boost, speedometer corrected, speed limiter off and trans firm shift on.

I flashed it back to stock to take it to the dealer this morning for my last free oil change of the 2 yr 24k mile deal and didn't really realize how much of a pig it drove like before.

As soon as i got out of the dealer I pulled around the parking lot, installed the tune again and was completely reminded of the changes that came when I first installed the tune.

My highway MPG has definitely gone up a couple MPG's and the city mileage is better as well. I have so many stop lights on my commute and such a heavy foot, that too much throttle boost just kills my MPG because I can't keep my foot out of it lol.

 

I'm already talking with Lew and will be doing a data log for him next week and getting a custom tune, I'll keep yall posted on those changes as well if anyone is interested.

Edited by tyrich88
  • Like 1
SPrew94535 Enthusiast

SPrew94535

Posted
Posted

I haven't messed with the idle at all yet, but as far as my other settings, I run the 87 octane tune with DOD/AFM off, 3% throttle boost, speedometer corrected, speed limiter off and trans firm shift on.

I flashed it back to stock to take it to the dealer this morning for my last free oil change of the 2 yr 24k mile deal and didn't really realize how much of a pig it drove like before.

As soon as i got out of the dealer I pulled around the parking lot, installed the tune again and was completely reminded of the changes that came when I first installed the tune.

My highway MPG has definitely gone up a couple MPG's and the city mileage is better as well. I have so many stop lights on my commute and such a heavy foot, that too much throttle boost just kills my MPG because I can't keep my foot out of it lol.

 

I'm already talking with Lew and will be doing a data log for him next week and getting a custom tune, I'll keep yall posted on those changes as well if anyone is interested.

SPrew94535 Enthusiast

SPrew94535

Posted
Posted

Please excuse my last post. Posting off a phone doesnt work sometimes. Ive noticed that people are deactivating the AFM. Any particular reason for doing this? Have you seen a drop in milage due to this? thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • Matt Parker
      Clunk when putting truck into drive and reverse.

      By Matt Parker · Posted

      It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...