Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks to @pgamboa I ordered one of those connectors from Mouser. I have a 2015 and swapped lids with a 2016 wireless charging lid. Looks like now Ill be retrofitting that lid with a module from a 2018 lid. Does anybody have a good price on acquiring the 13507652 module and the lead time on it? 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


Shouldn’t be. Just power, ground, and charge indicator circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 
 
 

Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

Posted
21 hours ago, David Ulbrich said:

It is not an Apple issue.  This is a GM issue.  No but of software will fix a hardware issue with the hardware that was used in the vehicle itself.

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

Posted
1 minute ago, Bangback said:

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

Since the charger supposedly does not even offer the 5W that the standards state (which is the issue in the first place as they did not follow the spec standards for Qi), it does not matter what the phone will allow.  It is still going to be a hardware charger issue and not the phone or the software.

Posted

I think we need to complain to GM.  I purchased a $70k vehicle that was advertised with wireless charging.  The more of us that complain to GM, we might get them to do something about it.  The car was advertised in supporting Qi and it doesn't, not fully until 2018. That's on them.  Even if we can only get them to cover half the costs of swapping out a lid for the 2018 that would save us a few hundred $$.  

 

Posted
10 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck emoji23.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?

sorry if i missed something.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/29/2017 at 4:47 PM, 2017SierraSLT said:

Some of the base Tahoes come without a charger, so they have this smooth mat that fits inside the bezel..

 

s-l1600.jpg

For those that still want the part number for this, it is in the picture below in the upper left corner.  

3D3D1830-FB1B-4497-9A28-69952499B442.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 11/5/2017 at 4:30 PM, robsieb said:

Tried it on my 2016 Sierra and no luck with my iPhone X. Wish I had access to an Android or anything else other than an iPhone. I’m starting to think the module I have may not be working but have no way to back that up. 

 

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

Edited by Bangback
  • Like 1
Posted
so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?
sorry if i missed something.

I have not. I was working with someone who had access to a 2018 Charging module, but the road block at the time was not having the right connectors/terminals to mate them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Bangback said:

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

I did some testing this morning in my '17 Suburban.  I left this morning with an 87% charge on my iPhone X and put it on the armrest charger.  25 minutes later, I took a look at the phone and it was up to 94%.  The phone was not hot, and the lightning bolt was steadily displayed on the Suburban display for the entire duration.  

 

I asked a friend what he though the magnet/screen ribbon cable set up might be for.  Again, this is just pure guessing, but he thought that it looked like an antenna, and that perhaps it was acting as a filter so that only the Qi frequencies would be able to be passed from the coil?  The guess is that maybe it's just connected to filtered ground and the grid pattern itself is what is causing the filtering?  Perhaps it is something that is needed to compliance against unwanted transmissions that are out of band for Qi?   This is probably older technology and new chargers may not need this anymore?  The magnet is just used to ensure the device is properly centered on the coil, lining up with a magnet in the device itself.  

 

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
Posted
I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

 

So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Edit: Nvm, saw your confirmation on another post. Do you have the rubber mat part number?

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, cmatt said:

 


So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
Posted
37 minutes ago, Bangback said:

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

It baffles me why this works for some and not for others?  I have a 2017 and iPhone 8. After magnet and screen removal it only works if phone is laying on the mat before you start the truck. Little lightning bolt pops up on dash screen and phone charges. If I remove the phone and place it back there after the truck is started..it won’t work.  Won’t work again until I turn off the truck, make sure phone is on the mat, then start the truck again. Why the inconsistency??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...