Jump to content

Hill descent control


Recommended Posts

Posted

I thought all Z71s came with hill descent control? I bought a 2014 LTZ Z71 and didn't realise it was missing the button until I got home. So I purchased the stab control switch with the decent control button and plugged it in. Everything works except for the hill decent control. Does anyone know if I need to buy more parts, or have my bcm programmed to work with the button? Thanks.

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Thanks for the reply. I think he was referring to the Z71 package no being able to be added after the truck leaves the factory. Mine has the Z71 package, but for some reason no hill descent control.

Posted

I thought all Z71s came with hill descent control? I bought a 2014 LTZ Z71 and didn't realise it was missing the button until I got home. So I purchased the stab control switch with the decent control button and plugged it in. Everything works except for the hill decent control. Does anyone know if I need to buy more parts, or have my bcm programmed to work with the button? Thanks.

First thing I would do is check your glove box and see if you have the RPO code Z71 listed. Second clue would be the rancho shocks. It is pretty easy to slap some stickers on and call it a Z71.

Posted

JHD is the option code for the hill descent control feature. In addition to the Z71 code, this should also be on the glovebox decal.

Posted

Will be interesting to see if you have the Z71 RPO code.

 

What do your dash gauges look like? Are they "checkered" with the Z71 logo? And is your console/door trim woodgrain, synthesis (looks like aluminum), or the Z71 checkered (looks kind of like carbon fiber)?

 

I hate to say it but if you bought the truck used it sounds like you may have gotten a non-Z71 that the previous owner added some but not all of the Z71 features. Hopefully that's not the case!

Posted

Will be interesting to see if you have the Z71 RPO code.

 

What do your dash gauges look like? Are they "checkered" with the Z71 logo? And is your console/door trim woodgrain, synthesis (looks like aluminum), or the Z71 checkered (looks kind of like carbon fiber)?

 

I hate to say it but if you bought the truck used it sounds like you may have gotten a non-Z71 that the previous owner added some but not all of the Z71 features. Hopefully that's not the case!

Unfortunately, that is what I am thinking. I had/made an SS emerald green 4 cylinder S10 one time.

Posted

Of that's the case the dealership is going to have a problem. No z71 gauges and wood grain.

That would explain the lack of the switch/option and no Rancho shocks. Might want to talk at an attorney first to see what recourse you might have, to at least get your ducks in a row before you unload on them.

Posted

Of that's the case the dealership is going to have a problem. No z71 gauges and wood grain.

Dash gauges should look like this. 2014-chevrolet-silverado-z71-dash-guages

Posted

Why would someone go through all the effort and cost to put Z71 decals on, replace the door seals with Z71 door seals, replace the front grill with a Z71 grill, and install the skid plates?

Posted

Why would someone go through all the effort and cost to put Z71 decals on, replace the door seals with Z71 door seals, replace the front grill with a Z71 grill, and install the skid plates?

 

Because a z71 will sell for more. And they are counting on you thinking it is a z71 or maybe the original owner liked some of the looks of a z71. Some people do wierd shit and think it makes it more valuable. The dealership would of run the vin or should have and it would of popped up as a z71 if it was a factory z71

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

As it turns out, it's a 1LZ. They even underlined it. I never thought to double check the rpo codes. It has an oem Z71 grill, oem Z71 decals, oem Z71 sill plates, oem Z71 skid plates.

Moral of the story is, if you see wood, it's not a Z71 (2LZ). I still love the truck. I'm really only missing decent control, but honestly how often is it used?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...