Jump to content

Final Consensus on Black My Link Screen?

Keagan

By Keagan
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

Keagan Enthusiast

Keagan

Posted
Posted

Hello,

 

I've read a lot of threads on different GM vehicles from Cruze to Silverados. One of my buddies have a 2015 2500HD Silverado with the 8" MyLink infotainment system. He reported about a month ago his system just went to a black screen, he could hear his music fine, press different areas of the screen and it would accept input (still black screen) From a bunch of reading, I had him check the ground between the windshield and A-pillar and it seemed find with no pinch of insulation. He eventually bought a new touchscreen but it did the same thing. Which leads me to believe nothing was wrong w the other screen either. If I had to guess it would be the HMI module? We have no dealerships here in Central America. What was the "fix" for this? We also tried pulling the fuse and it does nothing. We also disconnected the Touch screen from the module and it worked for maybe an hour and it went back black. Any help is appreciated. I really hope this does not happen to my High Country.

 

Thanks,

 

Keagan

HagiborChayil Enthusiast

HagiborChayil

Posted
Posted

I am no certified gm tech, but I did work on cars for a living in an electrical manner. I hand seen this issue a few times but buying a replacement screen has already fixed it, or buying an aftermarket radio should as well.

 

Could unplug the plug on the back of the radio face and verify each pin is properly seated. Just pull and wiggle each wire a few times. Do that both on the screen and on the module behind just to be safe.

 

I know it sounds strange. Sometimes the wires aren't seated properly in the plugs and they move just a bit. This I have seen too many times to be happy with...

 

Otherwise a new radio would be a fun addition. The 9 and 10" alpine restyled radios are dropping in price as the new series is getting ready to come out. Still pricy but nice screens.

Otherwise I'm partial toward my Kenwood and using the iDatalink Maestro wiring harness

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...