Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey Folks, I’m searching for the power running boards to have installed on my 2017 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ. I love my truck but have no clue on how to purchase or who could install. I currently have stock all black runnng boards that came with the truck. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/25/2019 at 4:39 AM, 2017 Silverado LTZ said:

Hey Folks, I’m searching for the power running boards to have installed on my 2017 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ. I love my truck but have no clue on how to purchase or who could install. I currently have stock all black runnng boards that came with the truck. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

Search on Craigslist, eBay, or a user on here named Alex. He also sells LED Tail Lights.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just wanted to let anyone know that is interested in installing these on a double cab vehicle that they will fit. I put them on mine this past weekend with a little modification they work!

 

As you can see, the very back bolt hole tab extend beyond the under frame of the truck, you'll need to grind this off but other than that, most of the bolt holes line up.  I had three bottom holes and two upper holes line up perfectly.  I'm going to have to use a couple of self tappers and drill out a couple of additional holes to add additional bolts, but for now, it's secure. 

 

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

Edited by DBrach
  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/6/2019 at 10:23 PM, DBrach said:

Just wanted to let anyone know that is interested in installing these on a double cab vehicle that they will fit. I put them on mine this past weekend with a little modification they work!

 

As you can see, the very back bolt hole tab extend beyond the under frame of the truck, you'll need to grind this off but other than that, most of the bolt holes line up.  I had three bottom holes and two upper holes line up perfectly.  I'm going to have to use a couple of self tappers and drill out a couple of additional holes to add additional bolts, but for now, it's secure. 

 

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

Thank you for responding. Where did you get your boards from and do they articulate. Can these be purchased from dealer. Sorry for so many questions. 

Posted
1 hour ago, 2017 Silverado LTZ said:

Thank you for responding. Where did you get your boards from and do they articulate. Can these be purchased from dealer. Sorry for so many questions. 

I bought mine locally in Dallas from one of the users on here. His name is Alex and he can get more. I dont recommend buying from the dealer because they're really expensive, but yes, they do sell them. Yes, they do articulate!

Posted
6 hours ago, 2017 Silverado LTZ said:

Was it plug and play. I watched a video and it was clearly out of my scope. 

You have to buy the wiring harness from PGamboa. I also ordered a new fuse box for under the hood, and ordered a new switch panel for the center console. I can do it myself as I've added the folding tow mirrors, but PGamboa lives near me and he's offered his services for a fee. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Thanks to everyone who helped me pull this off.  After watching the videos this really wasn't a hard install.  It just took a little patients.  I ended up finding a set of steps, off an 2018 Denali, on facebook marketplace of all places.  I started to put together a parts list of all the wire, wire terminals, connectors and tools.  From there I decided it was easier, for me, to buy the chassis wiring harness and stripped out what I needed.  It was really easy once you started and all the original mounting hardware is already mounted on the harness.  It ended up looking like a stock install.  Again, thanks everyone for all your help! 

 

Original Wiring Harness:

 

C41FF2C1-A279-4A54-B315-EB64D412EB4C_zps

 

Stripping the harness:

 

F76CF734-F9AD-4B6E-975E-859C3AE55677_zps

 

B4CD7528-8122-484B-8ECE-DE2597E3C41C_zps

 

Wiring harness completely stripped.  Ready for loom:

 

2CAC238D-163C-4FC4-B446-7B26A49F7926_zps

 

My 2017 Silverado LT 4x4:

 

29F832B8-8772-4B82-9EE2-209FF382274A_zps

 

C251DEDE-E4FB-411C-AD1D-004064191258_zps

 

25835827-F08A-4727-B040-6068F4D95EF8_zps

 

EE9599F9-7DFA-4C42-8275-610BB80DE692_zps

 

 

Edited by SoonerTA
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Bought a set off of here, picked them up last weekend (Thanks Papa-T). 

I'm going to get the chrome sprayed with bed liner spray to make them all black and then get those bad boys installed! Can't wait. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/27/2019 at 4:59 PM, rah7777777 said:

Fuse box terminals - MFG P/N 13849935-L   OR  Mouser P/N 829-1384995-L

 

This part number seems to be obsolete now, anyone know the new number?

Are you referring to the fuse box under the hood to land the wires to? If so, here is the one I purchased: 84075773. 

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, DBrach said:

Are you referring to the fuse box under the hood to land the wires to? If so, here is the one I purchased: 84075773. 

Thanks! I’ll have to look that one up!

 

 

 

 

For anyone looking to take the chrome piece off, this is what I found. 

- there are 2 strips of double sided adhesive holding it on the frame, all the way down.  

Pretty stout adhesive as well

- if the chrome piece was off completely, you’d have 2 lips on the top and bottom that would look funny I think. 

- it’s not too hard to get the steps off the motor and arms so it’s easier to handle. 

 

So im just going to have the chrome side and top all coated in bed liner spray, leaving the chrome piece on the steps but hidden under the bed liner spray (assuming it can scuff the chrome up good enough)

07CBEFEB-D2B3-4870-993C-7B0123721562.jpeg

8934C102-88B6-4FEF-88BD-E9963D1BF3F6.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

@pgamboa Thank you for making the video and thread.

Can you comment on what would need to be done if pins # 8 GMLAN and #39 Running board disable are missing?

I can find another GMLAN I think I can tie into, but I only have 1 Running Board Disable Signal to tap in to...

Posted
[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention] Thank you for making the video and thread.
Can you comment on what would need to be done if pins # 8 GMLAN and #39 Running board disable are missing?
I can find another GMLAN I think I can tie into, but I only have 1 Running Board Disable Signal to tap in to...

The disable circuit runs to the IP switch. It lands onto pin 3 of the connector. That circuit is what is needed to disable the boards if you add the IP switch

40af188dde3d6d2a7cc8080b21367ba5.jpg

cbb70b542d80d0174461da986035aeb6.jpg

aa1aba1eb13dd24c144fc5a440434f71.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Phil does it AGAIN.

I'm a repeat customer:

1. DL3 mirror harness

2. Center console harness

3. Articulating Running Boards!!!!!!

 

I've been wanting these running boards since 2017 when I 1st spotted them on a High Country at the dealer. I drove up to McKinney from Houston and Phil had them installed and 100% functional in no time at all. It's always great to work w Phil and I don't hesitate to buy anything he has available!22d06ec8222f29b66596c1be3e4d2fd6.jpg37ceb2f7f434f4cce41ef597015e3fb1.jpgc9615e4d7a344ea51fc28219dc428a22.jpg4c6e0b53480fea57e706ff2f4da4260a.jpga36280cc97f45542b5ee8910e64832c2.jpg0de0a523e393d340de1bfb47d23db655.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
    • I'm well aware of the typical bathtub failure curve, but plotted, this truck has been more like an elevated straight line.  It started days off the lot with misfires that GM couldn't solve for almost 2 years, and steadily continued over the last 5 years with repeat replacements of wiring harnesses, camera modules, cameras, parking sensors, head unit, rear windows, rear leaf springs and bushings, lower control arms, a radiator, and now an ac compressor and a column shift assembly.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...