Jump to content

15 AC not working

yukonjackxl
 Share

Recommended Posts

yukonjackxl Enthusiast

yukonjackxl

Posted
Posted

Have a 2015 Silverado with 39,000 miles on it, the AC is not working. Turn it on and it blows warm air, compressor is not running.

Any TSB about this or any thoughts?

Thanks in advanced.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bdbake01 Senior Enthusiast

bdbake01

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, yukonjackxl said:

 

Have a 2015 Silverado with 39,000 miles on it, the AC is not working. Turn it on and it blows warm air, compressor is not running.

Any TSB about this or any thoughts?

Thanks in advanced.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Your condenser and/or your compressor discharge line are cracked. Congrats. No TSB that I’m aware of. GM has left us for dead on this one. 

tndeerhunter125 Enthusiast

tndeerhunter125

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, yukonjackxl said:

 

Have a 2015 Silverado with 39,000 miles on it, the AC is not working. Turn it on and it blows warm air, compressor is not running.

Any TSB about this or any thoughts?

Thanks in advanced.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Go and take a screwdriver or something and depress the needle in the fill to see if there is any Freon in it, I just had to replace the condenser in mine 

qwank Senior Enthusiast

qwank

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, Tahoe02 said:

I thought they had extended the warranty to 60,000 miles on the 15,16, and 17 year models.

Only the Suvs, which makes no sense because they are they same part numbers for the pickups. 

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

Condensor or ac line. VERY common on early ones. Mine went during the Florida summer in 97 degree heatwave. They were overwhelmed with backorders and had no part. It did take a charge and wasa slow leak, so we maintained the freon till the part became available. You will be able to get the part now.

flms_pat Enthusiast

flms_pat

Posted
Posted

certain vin numbers have a special policy to extend the warranty to 5/60 vs the original 3/36

njs2247 Enthusiast

njs2247

Posted
Posted

like the others said, probably the condenser. I replaced my condenser this past Saturday. 

ncd1966 Enthusiast

ncd1966

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had to replace my condenser on my 2015 GMC sierra yesterday.

 

luckly I have extended warranty on my truck but I had to pay $100 deductible.  Which I think with only 40,000 miles should of been covered completely by GM.

 

I wasnt too happy about that and was hoping that my dealer would of just taken care of the $100 bucks but they didnt want to offer that.    $100 bucks for a dealer would be pennies to keep the customer happy.   So I might be going to another dealer on my next truck purchase. 

Edited by ncd1966
15BlueSilverado Enthusiast

15BlueSilverado

Posted
Posted
On 5/13/2018 at 10:11 AM, Tahoe02 said:

I thought they had extended the warranty to 60,000 miles on the 15,16, and 17 year models.

I was under the same impression. I was told that the 2015 Silverado would be the last truck with the 60k miles or 5 year warranty because they were changing it to 36k miles or 3 years for the 2016 and up model. I need to double check my paperwork but I swear that's what I was told when I bought my 2015 back in October.

15BlueSilverado Enthusiast

15BlueSilverado

Posted
Posted

I took my truck to the dealer one time and mentioned to them that my AC had stopped blowing cold air. The one guy I talked to said it was probably the compressor and that the part wasn't covered under warranty and I would have to pay out of pocket to have it fixed. Needless to say, I told the guy never mind and left it as is since the weather at the time wasn't too bad. Well now, we're starting to get into the scorching hot temps of summer here in TX and phuk that shit!! I need some AC!! So I called the dealer again today and was told by another service guy that my truck was still under the bumper to bumper warranty and the repair would be covered. Hearing this great news I proceeded to make an appointment for this Thursday, first thing in the morning to drop it off. 

 

So I'm guessing that depending on who you talk to at the dealership, and the mileage on your truck, they will in fact cover the cost and repair under warranty. Granted, I don't think I should have had to speak or call multiple times for the same issue but in the end, GM is fixing it and covering the cost so I'm good with that. 

 

Here's a pic of where my condenser leaked from. It was more noticeable yesterday before it rained over here. You can still see on the side where it kind of looks "wet". 

Condenser leak found at weld.png

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

I’m pretty sure this was a very common issue.

I had mine replaced and leaked in same place on my 2014. I think I was at 30k on my truck when that happen.

They admitted it was a huge issue and happening to many truck owners; yet no recall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...