Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone have the part numbers for the dash piece and the harness i need to install the gm factory trailer brake controller to my truck? I have a 2017 sierra 5.3l sle double cab. 

Posted

From what I've heard, the factory controller can't be added later. Need to look at aftermarket controllers.

  • Like 2
Posted

There’s been numerous threads about this subject already.

It can’t be done. Your only option is to install an aftermarket controller.

  • Like 1
Posted

Go to your local gm dealer and ask them to install an aftermarket controller.  They stock gm endorsed controllers and install them on a frequent basis.

Posted
1 hour ago, Ryno12 said:

There’s been numerous threads about this subject already.

It can’t be done. Your only option is to install an aftermarket controller.

This is true.  Unfortunately you can't add it later.

 

 

1 hour ago, Donstar said:

Go to your local gm dealer and ask them to install an aftermarket controller.  They stock gm endorsed controllers and install them on a frequent basis.

Exactly.  The GM-endorsed ones come with a harness that will make the connections easy, or go with the Tekonsha Prodigy which is a great controller that comes with a harness as well.  With aftermarket you won't have integration into the ABS and Sway Control like the factory one but again you don't have that option if your truck didn't come with it.

Posted

I’ll be adding the factory TBS to mine. Once I have the time. Lol.

I’ve got the modules ready to go (to get programming done) along with my cluster.

There are 2-3 modules, programming, and wiring.

The cost Factor along with the amount of work needed makes it the least desirable method.

But I’m gonna give the good ol college try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 6
Posted

I wish someone would make a controller that plugs into the factory GM dash switch. That way, if your truck never came with factory TBC, you could add an aftermarket controller but utilize a factory switch for a cleaner look.
You’d still need some sort of display as the DIC wouldn’t be of any use though...

Posted

There’s one in the parts catalog takes like 30 minutes to install

https://www.gmpartsnow.com/oem-parts/gm-trailering-brake-controller-pkg-19330154/?c=Zz10cmFpbGVyaW5nJnM9aGl0Y2gmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz1zaWx2ZXJhZG8tMTUwMCZ5PTIwMTUmdD1sdCZlPTUtM2wtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D

 

You can’t add the integrated controller because it’s integrated unless your pgamboa of course.

 

GM is of the opinion of if you wanted it you should have ordered/bought it that way and they have been for years  this isn’t anything new...

 

If you want a aftermarket on the dash like the integrated here is a thread with some different ones

 

thread with some ideas for you on location and controller options.

 
Also trucks that come without the integrated are supposed to come with the pigtail to wire an aftermarket up so no need to spend 20 bucks on one.
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 8/14/2018 at 11:32 AM, pgamboa said:

I’ll be adding the factory TBS to mine. Once I have the time. Lol.

I’ve got the modules ready to go (to get programming done) along with my cluster.

There are 2-3 modules, programming, and wiring.

The cost Factor along with the amount of work needed makes it the least desirable method.

But I’m gonna give the good ol college try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Phil,

Have you attempted this yet, and can it be done to a 2014? What kind of cost are you talking about?

 

Thanks

Jim

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I bought the bezel with the brake controller off EBAY thinking I could add the controller to my 2018 Silverado.    Like everyone else I found out the

hard way the automated trailer brake system will not work.  I did not want one of the large ugly add on Brake Controllers that bolt onto the dash. I 

found a really  nice one the REDAC PRO ELITE.  I took the bezel I bought and used it by gutting the lower part of the switch.  Made a new front cover 

using a PC Case.  I made a outer cover over the lower part of the switch.  Then a inner   cover  tracing the inner part of the switch case, then gluing 

them to together using E6000 Glue.  YDSCN1334.thumb.JPG.3e883216f381bdf1e30dcfa6e7302184.JPGou have to grind down the front of the original switch front to allow it to clip in place with the new (PC Case)

front cover.  Mounted the control head on the new cover (you have to center and drill hose).  Mounted the controller on the front case of the brake

controller plug in box.  Plugged everything together and went on down the road.  Almost looks factory and is proportional and manual.  

DSCN1336.JPG

DSCN1337.JPG

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 8/14/2018 at 2:32 PM, pgamboa said:

I’ll be adding the factory TBS to mine. Once I have the time. Lol.

I’ve got the modules ready to go (to get programming done) along with my cluster.

There are 2-3 modules, programming, and wiring.

The cost Factor along with the amount of work needed makes it the least desirable method.

But I’m gonna give the good ol college try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever get around to installing the factory brake controller?

Posted
Did you ever get around to installing the factory brake controller?

Nope. Not yet. Module still with WAMS. No free time :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Sad 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...