Cigarette socket & 110V Power outlets don't work

[hamooz]

Vehicle: 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT

 

Both of the cigarette socket and 110V (AC Inverted) outlets don't work.

 

I thought the issue was simple. I searched online to find a way to fix it. The most common way that I found was to change the fuse for that outlets.

However, I did test Fuse #35 (25A), which is located on the passenger's side panel, and it was not blown.

I put a new fuse just in case. Although the old one was good but unfortunately the outlet still doesn't work even after the change.

 

I bought the truck a couple weeks ago and this issue was pre-existed.  I assume the previous owners misuse the outlets. They might used high amperage devices on the outlets.

 

Other fix that I've found in this form (topic link) was to replace the receptacle (Part # 22854091) and the Control Module (Part #22817310).

 

Before I actually start chaining them, first I'd like to know where the issue exactly? Can it be other than the fuses or the Module?

Second, if the issue from the Module, I don't know how to replace them and I did not find any videos to do so.

Even the parts number (the one on red) are not compatible with my VIN.

 

I don't like the idea to let the dealer handle this issue. They charge a lot just for a simple diagnosis (at least $200) plus the cost of repair & expensive parts.

 

I'd really appreciate if any one is able to help me regarding this issue.

 

Thank you in advance. 

[btj_z71]

Following, some of my USB ports do not work.

[BigBadSierra]

Start checking to see if one of the connectors somewhere has come loose in the harness.

[Loco-diablo]

7 hours ago, hamooz said:

 

 

I bought the truck a couple weeks ago and this issue was pre-existed.  I assume the previous owners misuse the outlets. They might used high amperage devices on the outlets.

 

 

I'm assuming it was a private party sale?

[L86 All Terrain]

Didn't someone's truck just burn down on the forum from usb/12v/120v related wiring issues? I would keep it parked outside until you get it figured out. If the fuses are good and the wiring is good, but all outlets are dead, there must be something that controls the power output to them all that crapped out. To me it makes more sense for the "control module" to die than multiple outlets at once. But one time I thought the radio was bad in my 2007.5 Dmax and it turns out that all 4 speakers died at the same time and the radio was fine. 

 

I would locate that module and use your multimeter to determine if and how much power is getting sent to the different ports from the "control module". That way you can verify if the problem is the module before you order any parts.  

[hamooz]

8 hours ago, BigBadSierra said:

Start checking to see if one of the connectors somewhere has come loose in the harness.

To check the connectors, do I need to pull out the Module?

7 hours ago, Loco-diablo said:

I'm assuming it was a private party sale?

No, I bought it from a dealer.

6 hours ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Didn't someone's truck just burn down on the forum from usb/12v/120v related wiring issues? I would keep it parked outside until you get it figured out. If the fuses are good and the wiring is good, but all outlets are dead, there must be something that controls the power output to them all that crapped out. To me it makes more sense for the "control module" to die than multiple outlets at once. But one time I thought the radio was bad in my 2007.5 Dmax and it turns out that all 4 speakers died at the same time and the radio was fine. 

 

I would locate that module and use your multimeter to determine if and how much power is getting sent to the different ports from the "control module". That way you can verify if the problem is the module before you order any parts.  

Not all the outlets are dead. The USB ports do work. 

Do I need to test the module using the multimeter or test the wires that connects to it?

Thanks for the advice though

8 hours ago, btj_z71 said:

Following, some of my USB ports do not work.

Lucky, my USB ports do work and the outlet in the rear side works too.

[Colossus]

Just a FYI, they are called power ports now.  They stopped being cigarette lighter sockets when they stopped putting cigarette lighters in them

[hamooz]

3 hours ago, Colossus said:

Just a FYI, they are called power ports now.  They stopped being cigarette lighter sockets when they stopped putting cigarette lighters in them

I know they suppose to be called power ports. But "Cigarette lighter sockets" is still common use today.

[squeak93]

Fuse box on left side of dash(open door). It’s a square fuse not the normal blade ones.  Can get off of amazon. 

[Loco-diablo]

Being that you bought from a dealer just a few weeks ago, don't you get some type of warranty? I think here in MA, dealer sold vehicles have a mandatory 90 warranty.

[L86 All Terrain]

On 10/18/2018 at 4:07 PM, hamooz said:

Do I need to test the module using the multimeter or test the wires that connects to it?

Thanks for the advice though

Lucky, my USB ports do work and the outlet in the rear side works too.

I haven't experienced problems in these trucks with electrical accessories so my knowledge of what controls them is limited, there must be a control module or controller that regulates the power outputs to the plugs when in use. I dont know what this looks like or where it is, or if it is all controlled a different way like the BCM for example. If the fuses are good (replace to be sure). Just touch the outlets with the truck on with your multi-meter to see what, if any, power is reaching the outlets. If the output is present but very low amperage, chances are the outlet is damaged. If there is zero amperage at the plug ends, then either a wire has come loose or the problem is in the module that controls the power output. Trace the wires under the dash to find where they originate and if possible, remove them to check voltages at the module. If there is the same amount of power at the module as the plug ends, then the module is probably bad. 

 

Pgamboa is a wiring and electrical genius, maybe he will chime in here if you are still having trouble.  

[hamooz]

On 10/18/2018 at 11:34 PM, squeak93 said:

Fuse box on left side of dash(open door). It’s a square fuse not the normal blade ones.  Can get off of amazon. 

If you mean Fuse #1 (APO 2) (15A) then you are right.

On 10/22/2018 at 10:52 AM, Loco-diablo said:

Being that you bought from a dealer just a few weeks ago, don't you get some type of warranty? I think here in MA, dealer sold vehicles have a mandatory 90 warranty.

Unfortunately, my truck has over 110k miles and the manufacturer warranty has already expired.

I bought it as-is.

On 10/22/2018 at 11:17 AM, L86 All Terrain said:

I haven't experienced problems in these trucks with electrical accessories so my knowledge of what controls them is limited, there must be a control module or controller that regulates the power outputs to the plugs when in use. I dont know what this looks like or where it is, or if it is all controlled a different way like the BCM for example. If the fuses are good (replace to be sure). Just touch the outlets with the truck on with your multi-meter to see what, if any, power is reaching the outlets. If the output is present but very low amperage, chances are the outlet is damaged. If there is zero amperage at the plug ends, then either a wire has come loose or the problem is in the module that controls the power output. Trace the wires under the dash to find where they originate and if possible, remove them to check voltages at the module. If there is the same amount of power at the module as the plug ends, then the module is probably bad. 

 

Pgamboa is a wiring and electrical genius, maybe he will chime in here if you are still having trouble.  

Thank you for the info.  

[hamooz]

** Update **

I was able to fix both of the outlets. 

 

For the 110V power outlet, as L86 All Terrain said, I let my technician friend to mess with it. It appeared that one of the wires where somehow loose. Nothing wrong with the module nor the outlet plug.

 

For the DC outlet (the one located above 110V AC outlet) , it was very simple fix actually, It wasn't fuse #35. It was #1 Fuse on the driver's side (see the attach files).

 

FYI, may be obvious but,  each power outlet has a separate fuse, their corresponded fuses located in both the driver and the passenger fuse boxes. My truck has 4 outlets which means they are 4 fuses for each one of them.

 

Thank you y'all for the help.

[L86 All Terrain]

Glad to hear you solved it. Something must have caused that #1 fuse to blow, either an accessory drew too much power momentarily to pop the fuse, or there was a short somewhere. Keep a spare one in your glove box in case there was a short, but most likely a device you had plugged in at one point drew a little too much power. I used to pop them steady on my old truck that had an inverter installed to run small power tools. I went to a larger inverter that was hardwired to the battery and never had to worry about overloading the 12v socket again. Thanks for the detailed photos, it should help the forum users find what they are looking for when they encounter the same problem. 

[hamooz]

4 hours ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Glad to hear you solved it. Something must have caused that #1 fuse to blow, either an accessory drew too much power momentarily to pop the fuse, or there was a short somewhere. Keep a spare one in your glove box in case there was a short, but most likely a device you had plugged in at one point drew a little too much power. I used to pop them steady on my old truck that had an inverter installed to run small power tools. I went to a larger inverter that was hardwired to the battery and never had to worry about overloading the 12v socket again. Thanks for the detailed photos, it should help the forum users find what they are looking for when they encounter the same problem. 

Thanks for you, not me

When you refer to an inverter, do you mean the device that inverts the DC outlet to 110V AC outlets?

 

Thank you again for your helpful advice.