Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Two hour drive home today. Every ten seconds a round if alerts about trailer, rear cross traffic and lane assist faults. Flashes the radio screen each time too. Blood was starting to boil after the distractions caused me to almost get in a wreck in traffic. 
 
Thankfully I was able to stuff my hat in the dash and turn off the radio so I could actually drive. 
 
For what it’s worth I cleaned all the sensors and tried restarting the truck to make it stop. I shouldn’t have to do that anyways, this is a truck in the winter, it’s gonna be dirty and if that is a problem then this truck will have to find a new home. 
 
I don’t really want to deal with a dealer this time of year but it looks like I have no choice.  
They updated mine and no issues now. So I guess it must be a software issue.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Posted
They updated mine and no issues now. So I guess it must be a software issue.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk


Why doesn’t GM auto make the download apply thru the update without going into the dealer



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted

Why doesn’t GM auto make the download apply thru the update without going into the dealer



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I don't know. You'll have to call GM...

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well I have the same problem here in QUebec the truck is going crazy with the trailer disconnected...

 

With your post, I know that I will call GM for an update !

 

Thanks for your post !

Posted
Well I have the same problem here in QUebec the truck is going crazy with the trailer disconnected...
 
With your post, I know that I will call GM for an update !
 
Thanks for your post !
Let me know how it goes. You can message me if you want. Mine had the update done, everything was fine, and now the problems are back. My truck is going back to the dealer at the end of the month when I'm back from my work hitch.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, KA0S said:

Let me know how it goes. You can message me if you want. Mine had the update done, everything was fine, and now the problems are back. My truck is going back to the dealer at the end of the month when I'm back from my work hitch.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk
 

Oh well I should wait until you have answers then.. 

 

that suck really bad, its a brand new truck and this thing just came on few days ago when its under -10 here. 

 

Keep me up to date with this please !

Posted

The update stopped the errors but my GMC logo is flashing on start up again which is what it did before. We haven’t had any good cold weather spells since the update to be sure it is really working right though. 

Posted

I thought the update helped at first

It was 12°F this morning and all the sensors trailer disconnect we’re all going crazy

So much for the update

At 32°F the sensor still give me a problem

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Posted

Guys in normal conditions does all the sensors suppose to turn off when you connect a trailer ?

If yes probably theres something wrong with the trailer harness...

Or

Maybe theres something with the temperature sensor...

I try to figure it out cause many people said even with an update nothing happen..

What do you think?


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

Posted

I'm another with the same problem.  Just got my truck on Saturday and now two cold mornings in a row the car keeps thinking I'm connecting and disconnecting a trailer, even when driving.  It makes using the displays essentially impossible.  Dealer picked my car up this morning and think they "know what the issue is."  I'm hopeful, but seeing all of you who have had it recur concerns me.  I live in Montana and it is cold here.  If this continues it will be unacceptable.  

Posted

I’ve had mine updated and it was fine for a few days. Today at 20F it’s back to the same crap. Off to the dealer tomorrow to see what can be done. 

 

And yes the displays flashing are almost useless and extremely distracting while driving. 

Posted

I spone with my dealer and he saids that Gm is on the problem trying to fix it probably is just an update of the computer they will keep me up to date for that problem...


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Update for me.  They are dropping my  car back off tomorrow.  Updated system but openly told me this is an open ticket with GM that does not have an official ticket.  I was told I will deal with it from time to time until GM figures it out.  They were hoping a couple weeks.  Not a happy camper.  I saw GM responded early in this thread.   I wish they would respond again.

Posted

If i could do away with options for my truck these parking sensors would be at the top of the list. They are without a doubt more of a nuisance than a help it seems, especially if your like me and live in a snowy climate as they always trigger a false detection with ice or snow buildup around the sensors. Sorry guys who are new to these trucks but i don't see software updates fixing this issue, been pretty common for the last 5+ years anyways. Mine just eventually thankfully shut down all together when they start freaking out hopefully they kept that feature.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...