Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Today I decided to remove the factory mud flaps that come on the truck. I just don't like the look. I can deal with a little extra dirt. When I took them off I found this.

 

 

WCTHjr3.jpg

 

Theres a hole in the fender behind the flaps. Its like this on the front and back. Has anyone else ran into this? This is my first Chevy after owning Fords for a long time so I didn't know if this was an issue on the older body styles and someone makes a plug or something for the holes?

  • Like 1
Posted

Probably some trim that was removed to install the guards. Assuming they were dealer installed.

Posted

Yeah there's plastic trim that fit over the corner's. Mine have them, and I have gatorbacks on. You must have the plastic splash guards?

Posted
11 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

Yeah there's plastic trim that fit over the corner's. Mine have them, and I have gatorbacks on. You must have the plastic splash guards?

 

Yeah, I have the plastic splashguards. So there is trim that I could order that gets rid of the splash guard part?

 

Any idea about the goofy piece thats in front of the back tire. That one has a hole behind it too. 

Posted

The piece in front of the tire is there purely for aerodynamics, gm must have gotten a few points on the epa fuel mileage so they figured why not. But yeah, there should be parts you can order.

Posted (edited)

That is for the air spoiler installation.  Not sure if the spoiler and the flap are all one unit.  Also, I am not sure why you would want that area to be bare.  Good place for road debris rash.  I wish the Silverado was like the Sierra and had the wheel well guards.  This area has always been the first to lose paint on my trucks.  

Edited by teyaroch
Posted

The silverados do have the wheel well guards at least the majority of trucks I have looked at recently.  

Posted
3 hours ago, RyanbabZ71 said:

The silverados do have the wheel well guards at least the majority of trucks I have looked at recently.  

Maybe I should clarify.  Wheel well opening or lip protector.  Also, wheel well liners are not installed in the rear of all of the T1.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

When I upgraded the front Mud flaps from stock to Weather Tech I saw those, its a clip that's on the OEM Mud that holds it to the fender. most of the replacement flaps are designed to cover it.

Posted

Seen this on a few hc, and ltz today, gatorbacks with those exact colour plugs!

Posted
1 hour ago, Mark Goertzen said:

Truck Hardware has plugs in factory colors for the hole. Blends right in making the hole disappear. Good option for those with tire rubs.

46211219282_2a0775b32e_k.jpg

This is exactly what i'm looking for. I'm going to place an order. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 2019-03-05 at 8:04 PM, Dannyessing said:

Anyone know where to buy these in the US? I tried getting the plugs off the truck hardware site and it’s Canadian currency only 

I wouldn’t recommend the gator back mudflaps. I have friends who have had them and they basically fall apart. However I do recommend cloud-riders designs LTD!    cloud-rider.com 

They have a mudflap they have been offering for at least 10 years now and I’ve been told by one of their reps that they haven’t had to do any warranty claims on it since launching a decade ago.  They also offer kickbacks for the 2019 Silverado and it is a much better and higher quality product than gatorback in my experience! While they are made in Canada too, they give an option for American currency on their website at the top right corner! They only offer a black plug for the the hole in the fender, however my friends who purchased gatorback for their 19 silverados say the paint on the coloured cap is already peeling off after minimal use... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...