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How to install a dash cam on a 2019 Silverado


M3Master

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So, this will be the high level version but it's super easy.  I've followed this recipe in all my cars for the last several years.  I put this together because a dash cam just saved my ass with respect to an accident.  Many of you offered valuable input on that and I appreciate it.  Get a dash cam!

 

Disclaimer:

This procedure works for me.  If you don't feel comfortable poking around in your fuse box, this procedure isn't for you.  If you don't have some of the fuses/options that I reference in this, you'll have to locate an alternative fuse which should be pretty easy.  Just be really careful poking around with a test light.   If you mess your truck up..it's on you.  Just keep in mind the concept of retained accessory power.  Something may appear to have +12v when you turn the ignition button off...but it may only be hot for a few min.  The way I checked this was to hit lock on my alarm remote.  From what I can tell, this should kill RAP.  If you still have +12V, then it should be a good source.

 

Also, if you have suggestions or see problems with my procedure, by all means shout it out.  I'm all for making a safer/better procedure.

 

What you need:

A dash cam.  I like the Garmin 45 but you have about a million to choose from.

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Extremely-GPS-enabled-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B06XFQTDQL

 

The hardwire kit for that dash cam. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Parking-Mode-Cable-010-12530-03/dp/B06XTBPYS2

 

2 ATR/Micro2 Add-a-circuit Adapters

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ or Autozone

 

2 5amp Micro2/ATR fuses

Autozone!

 

10mm socket

 

Summary:

You need key on power for the camera.  If the camera you choose has a parking mode(the Garmin does), you need a +12v source when the ignition is off(not a RAP only source).

 

1.  Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2.  Pull the fuse box cover on the passenger side of the dash board.  Grip the bottom and pull it directly away from the dash.  It will unsnap.  It is MUCH easier to remove on this truck vs. the previous generation.

3.  If you have a pull handle on the passenger side, remove the covers and the 2 10mm screws.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE WINDSHIELD.  IF YOU DO, YOU'RE SCREWED.  You don't really need to pull the handle, you just need to loosen it.

4.  Mount your camera in center/right side of the windshield.  Make sure to mount it far enough away from the review mirror assembly as to not have that in the field of vision.  You can also mount it on the right side of your windshield.  This particular camera has placement configuration in the software.  Technically you can mount it wherever you want!

5.  Plug in the cord to the camera and start CAREFULLY tucking in the wire along the headliner.  Be very careful about prying it down as to not damage the liner or crack the windshield.  Run the wire all the way over to the pillar/handle that you loosened.  Run it down the handle trim and tuck it in under the plastic and behind the weather stripping.  Run this all the way down.  The cord will pop out nicely right above the fuse box you just exposed in step 2.

6.  Gently pull the lower kick panel trim.  You may have to pull the scuff panel trip to remove it.  It just pops out and pops in.  Very easy.

7.  Behind that kick panel trim, there is a very nice ground.  Run your ground wire to that.

8.  For the +12v key on power, I used the heated steering wheel fuse.  It's a 7.5 amp fuse.  Pull that fuse out.  Add it to your add-a-circuit.  Put one of your 5A fuses in the other fuse slot.  Make sure you have the right fuse in the right place.  I didn't the first time and when I turned on the heated steering wheel it blew the fuse.  Strange that a 7.5A is enough but a 5A isn't.  Seems to be cutting it pretty close but what do I know.  Anyway, I reversed the fuses and put in a new 5A fuse and everything is good.  Plug your new circuit into that slot in the fuse box.

9.  For the +12V key off/battery power, I used the garage door opener.  It's a 10A fuse.  Seems to have power when the key is off.  Odd because it would seem that if someone breaks your window, the garage door opener would work.  Maybe it doesn't transmit or something but that circuit definitely has key off power.  Assemble your add-a-circuit w/ your fuses in the correct orientation and plug it in to the fuse box.

10.  Tuck in all your wires.  Use zip ties to bundle up the excess.  Make sure all your connections are good and secure.

11.  Reconnect your battery and make sure your camera works in run mode as well as parking mode.  For this camera when you turn the truck off, it should say "Starting parking mode" on the LCD...or something like that.  When you turn on the ignition/engine, you should see the camera power up.

12.  Assuming everything is good, put all your trim back in place and carefully reattach your pillar handle. Don't hit the windshield!

13.  Got for a drive and then check the video when you get home.  Make sure it's clear and free of obstructions.

 

Fusebox image:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0hd6gptnsrupdc/2019-01-11 14.53.58.jpg

 

Edited by M3Master
adding pic
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Make sure that you look at the numbers on the side of the windshield it's about 6 in down I believe that is a legal limit as to how far something can be in the windshield space I had a friend pulled over because he had a stick on dash cam with a suction cup in a rental car and he got a ticket for obstructing his view apparently there's numbers or some type of line in the visor height of the windshield make sure you stay above that.

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There a great tool to have with today's drivers not paying attention to what there doing. I put mine on a switch not a key on power. That enables me to leave it on when I run in a business or whatever and its a rough looking area I will still be filming around my truck. I dont mind flipping it on when I take off driving there a good thing however you set it up. I'm using a RoadHawk HD camera. 

Edited by crankman
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  • 5 months later...

So I tried to tap into the drivers side and passenger side fuse box for a dash cam but none of the open fuse ports have power with or without the ignition on? Any ideas as to why this is? I was trying to use an open port rather than tap an existing fuse.

Thanks 

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1 hour ago, JayTrailBoss said:

So I tried to tap into the drivers side and passenger side fuse box for a dash cam but none of the open fuse ports have power with or without the ignition on? Any ideas as to why this is? I was trying to use an open port rather than tap an existing fuse.

Thanks 

This tap on the passenger side has power on all the time once you turn on the vehicle.  When you get out and turn off the vehicle it turns off.  It is where I have my footwell lighting hooked up to for now.

fuse tap.jpg

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On 6/21/2019 at 12:56 PM, Black02Silverado said:

This tap on the passenger side has power on all the time once you turn on the vehicle.  When you get out and turn off the vehicle it turns off.  It is where I have my footwell lighting hooked up to for now.

fuse tap.jpg

Footwell lighting,  on all the time when vehicle is on?  While driving as well??  Can it be tied to the dome lights to gradually  dim??? This would be nice set up.

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11 hours ago, [email protected] said:

Footwell lighting,  on all the time when vehicle is on?  While driving as well??  Can it be tied to the dome lights to gradually  dim??? This would be nice set up.

Yes all the time.  So far I have not found the dome light power source. 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/21/2019 at 10:56 AM, Black02Silverado said:

This tap on the passenger side has power on all the time once you turn on the vehicle.  When you get out and turn off the vehicle it turns off.  It is where I have my footwell lighting hooked up to for now.

fuse tap.jpg

Do you have a fuse in line somewhere that I can't see in the picture or are you just running a hardline to that terminal with no over current protection? I want to use that terminal for USB/12V port power for the center jumpseat I installed but I don't want to fry anything by not having a fuse in line. Thanks 

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3 hours ago, Rckstr7 said:

Do you have a fuse in line somewhere that I can't see in the picture or are you just running a hardline to that terminal with no over current protection? I want to use that terminal for USB/12V port power for the center jumpseat I installed but I don't want to fry anything by not having a fuse in line. Thanks 

Yes there is an inline fuse.  That red part you see is part of the fuse. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/21/2019 at 12:56 PM, Black02Silverado said:

This tap on the passenger side has power on all the time once you turn on the vehicle.  When you get out and turn off the vehicle it turns off.  It is where I have my footwell lighting hooked up to for now.

fuse tap.jpg

 

I have a fuse populated where you tapped..  It is labeled Battery 1.  I also have a fuse on the left side across from it, that is labeled Battery 2.

I wonder what the difference is. 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/11/2019 at 3:33 PM, M3Master said:

So, this will be the high level version but it's super easy.  I've followed this recipe in all my cars for the last several years.  I put this together because a dash cam just saved my ass with respect to an accident.  Many of you offered valuable input on that and I appreciate it.  Get a dash cam!

 

Disclaimer:

This procedure works for me.  If you don't feel comfortable poking around in your fuse box, this procedure isn't for you.  If you don't have some of the fuses/options that I reference in this, you'll have to locate an alternative fuse which should be pretty easy.  Just be really careful poking around with a test light.   If you mess your truck up..it's on you.  Just keep in mind the concept of retained accessory power.  Something may appear to have +12v when you turn the ignition button off...but it may only be hot for a few min.  The way I checked this was to hit lock on my alarm remote.  From what I can tell, this should kill RAP.  If you still have +12V, then it should be a good source.

 

Also, if you have suggestions or see problems with my procedure, by all means shout it out.  I'm all for making a safer/better procedure.

 

What you need:

A dash cam.  I like the Garmin 45 but you have about a million to choose from.

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Extremely-GPS-enabled-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B06XFQTDQL

 

The hardwire kit for that dash cam. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Parking-Mode-Cable-010-12530-03/dp/B06XTBPYS2

 

2 ATR/Micro2 Add-a-circuit Adapters

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ or Autozone

 

2 5amp Micro2/ATR fuses

Autozone!

 

10mm socket

 

Summary:

You need key on power for the camera.  If the camera you choose has a parking mode(the Garmin does), you need a +12v source when the ignition is off(not a RAP only source).

 

1.  Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2.  Pull the fuse box cover on the passenger side of the dash board.  Grip the bottom and pull it directly away from the dash.  It will unsnap.  It is MUCH easier to remove on this truck vs. the previous generation.

3.  If you have a pull handle on the passenger side, remove the covers and the 2 10mm screws.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE WINDSHIELD.  IF YOU DO, YOU'RE SCREWED.  You don't really need to pull the handle, you just need to loosen it.

4.  Mount your camera in center/right side of the windshield.  Make sure to mount it far enough away from the review mirror assembly as to not have that in the field of vision.  You can also mount it on the right side of your windshield.  This particular camera has placement configuration in the software.  Technically you can mount it wherever you want!

5.  Plug in the cord to the camera and start CAREFULLY tucking in the wire along the headliner.  Be very careful about prying it down as to not damage the liner or crack the windshield.  Run the wire all the way over to the pillar/handle that you loosened.  Run it down the handle trim and tuck it in under the plastic and behind the weather stripping.  Run this all the way down.  The cord will pop out nicely right above the fuse box you just exposed in step 2.

6.  Gently pull the lower kick panel trim.  You may have to pull the scuff panel trip to remove it.  It just pops out and pops in.  Very easy.

7.  Behind that kick panel trim, there is a very nice ground.  Run your ground wire to that.

8.  For the +12v key on power, I used the heated steering wheel fuse.  It's a 7.5 amp fuse.  Pull that fuse out.  Add it to your add-a-circuit.  Put one of your 5A fuses in the other fuse slot.  Make sure you have the right fuse in the right place.  I didn't the first time and when I turned on the heated steering wheel it blew the fuse.  Strange that a 7.5A is enough but a 5A isn't.  Seems to be cutting it pretty close but what do I know.  Anyway, I reversed the fuses and put in a new 5A fuse and everything is good.  Plug your new circuit into that slot in the fuse box.

9.  For the +12V key off/battery power, I used the garage door opener.  It's a 10A fuse.  Seems to have power when the key is off.  Odd because it would seem that if someone breaks your window, the garage door opener would work.  Maybe it doesn't transmit or something but that circuit definitely has key off power.  Assemble your add-a-circuit w/ your fuses in the correct orientation and plug it in to the fuse box.

10.  Tuck in all your wires.  Use zip ties to bundle up the excess.  Make sure all your connections are good and secure.

11.  Reconnect your battery and make sure your camera works in run mode as well as parking mode.  For this camera when you turn the truck off, it should say "Starting parking mode" on the LCD...or something like that.  When you turn on the ignition/engine, you should see the camera power up.

12.  Assuming everything is good, put all your trim back in place and carefully reattach your pillar handle. Don't hit the windshield!

13.  Got for a drive and then check the video when you get home.  Make sure it's clear and free of obstructions.

 

Fusebox image:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0hd6gptnsrupdc/2019-01-11 14.53.58.jpg

 

So I tried this today with a Rove 4k dash cam. I am not sure that it is correct. I definitely don't want to mess up my truck.

Here is my experience and questions/concerns.

So I have the dash cam positioned on the windshield. I ran the wire up by the bracket around the rearview mirror, tucked it at the top headliner over to the pillar, down behind the weather stripping and into the fuse box area. 

I disconnected the negative first. I finally got the kick panel off which was harder than I thought and found a place for the ground wire.

I used the fuse that was mentioned by OP for the garage door opener which is always on.

I didn't realize that the orientation of the fuse mattered. I tried a few combinations of the two fuses in the same spot but turned around. 

After each time, I reconnected the negative terminal and checked things.

1. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work. I turned the truck fuse around but left the add a fuse in the same orientation and tried everything again.

2. the camera powered up but garage door button would not work again. 

Finally after turning them 3-4 times, finally the camera powered up and the garage door button worked.

But I noticed a couple things while sitting in the truck reading the dash cam manual. 

1. I heard static briefly over the radio and the parking assist button briefly flashed on and  then went off. After the first and second fuse switch, the parking assist button did this cycle several times. After the last time when I got the garage door button to work, the parking assist just flashes once and then done.

2. Normally when the truck is on and I turn it off then open the door the radio shuts off and if I close the door again there's a horn honk letting me know the key is still in the truck. This is hard to explain but it is no longer happening or working that way now.

 

I am going to watch it for a day or two and see what happens but was wanting to get others opinion especially if you have already done this.

Thanks for any tips or comments.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/11/2019 at 3:33 PM, M3Master said:

So, this will be the high level version but it's super easy.  I've followed this recipe in all my cars for the last several years.  I put this together because a dash cam just saved my ass with respect to an accident.  Many of you offered valuable input on that and I appreciate it.  Get a dash cam!

 

Disclaimer:

This procedure works for me.  If you don't feel comfortable poking around in your fuse box, this procedure isn't for you.  If you don't have some of the fuses/options that I reference in this, you'll have to locate an alternative fuse which should be pretty easy.  Just be really careful poking around with a test light.   If you mess your truck up..it's on you.  Just keep in mind the concept of retained accessory power.  Something may appear to have +12v when you turn the ignition button off...but it may only be hot for a few min.  The way I checked this was to hit lock on my alarm remote.  From what I can tell, this should kill RAP.  If you still have +12V, then it should be a good source.

 

Also, if you have suggestions or see problems with my procedure, by all means shout it out.  I'm all for making a safer/better procedure.

 

What you need:

A dash cam.  I like the Garmin 45 but you have about a million to choose from.

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Extremely-GPS-enabled-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B06XFQTDQL

 

The hardwire kit for that dash cam. 

https://smile.amazon.com/Garmin-Parking-Mode-Cable-010-12530-03/dp/B06XTBPYS2

 

2 ATR/Micro2 Add-a-circuit Adapters

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ or Autozone

 

2 5amp Micro2/ATR fuses

Autozone!

 

10mm socket

 

Summary:

You need key on power for the camera.  If the camera you choose has a parking mode(the Garmin does), you need a +12v source when the ignition is off(not a RAP only source).

 

1.  Disconnect the battery negative terminal.

2.  Pull the fuse box cover on the passenger side of the dash board.  Grip the bottom and pull it directly away from the dash.  It will unsnap.  It is MUCH easier to remove on this truck vs. the previous generation.

3.  If you have a pull handle on the passenger side, remove the covers and the 2 10mm screws.  BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT THE WINDSHIELD.  IF YOU DO, YOU'RE SCREWED.  You don't really need to pull the handle, you just need to loosen it.

4.  Mount your camera in center/right side of the windshield.  Make sure to mount it far enough away from the review mirror assembly as to not have that in the field of vision.  You can also mount it on the right side of your windshield.  This particular camera has placement configuration in the software.  Technically you can mount it wherever you want!

5.  Plug in the cord to the camera and start CAREFULLY tucking in the wire along the headliner.  Be very careful about prying it down as to not damage the liner or crack the windshield.  Run the wire all the way over to the pillar/handle that you loosened.  Run it down the handle trim and tuck it in under the plastic and behind the weather stripping.  Run this all the way down.  The cord will pop out nicely right above the fuse box you just exposed in step 2.

6.  Gently pull the lower kick panel trim.  You may have to pull the scuff panel trip to remove it.  It just pops out and pops in.  Very easy.

7.  Behind that kick panel trim, there is a very nice ground.  Run your ground wire to that.

8.  For the +12v key on power, I used the heated steering wheel fuse.  It's a 7.5 amp fuse.  Pull that fuse out.  Add it to your add-a-circuit.  Put one of your 5A fuses in the other fuse slot.  Make sure you have the right fuse in the right place.  I didn't the first time and when I turned on the heated steering wheel it blew the fuse.  Strange that a 7.5A is enough but a 5A isn't.  Seems to be cutting it pretty close but what do I know.  Anyway, I reversed the fuses and put in a new 5A fuse and everything is good.  Plug your new circuit into that slot in the fuse box.

9.  For the +12V key off/battery power, I used the garage door opener.  It's a 10A fuse.  Seems to have power when the key is off.  Odd because it would seem that if someone breaks your window, the garage door opener would work.  Maybe it doesn't transmit or something but that circuit definitely has key off power.  Assemble your add-a-circuit w/ your fuses in the correct orientation and plug it in to the fuse box.

10.  Tuck in all your wires.  Use zip ties to bundle up the excess.  Make sure all your connections are good and secure.

11.  Reconnect your battery and make sure your camera works in run mode as well as parking mode.  For this camera when you turn the truck off, it should say "Starting parking mode" on the LCD...or something like that.  When you turn on the ignition/engine, you should see the camera power up.

12.  Assuming everything is good, put all your trim back in place and carefully reattach your pillar handle. Don't hit the windshield!

13.  Got for a drive and then check the video when you get home.  Make sure it's clear and free of obstructions.

 

Fusebox image:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0hd6gptnsrupdc/2019-01-11 14.53.58.jpg

 

Does yours have a rear dashcam?  Any interference issues with key fob or TPMS?  

 

See my post for the issues I am having.  

 

 

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