Stock hitch class?

[Bstevens1084]

4 minutes ago, Mozzer said:

Mine (photo above) says it's good for 12,000 lbs.

Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
 

thanks, missed your picture, was looking at another post above. Now it makes sense. 

[GN2018]

4 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Look for RPO codes Z82 and Z85 on the placard in the glove box.

So, my build sheet has Z82 and Z85.  What does that mean?  I understand it means I have the towing package, but how do I determine what class hitch I have and what is my max towing.

 

The label on my hitch is like the one above - 1,200 lb tongue weight and 12,000 lb total weight.  Is that Class 3?

 

The GVW on the door says 7200 lb.  It splits that between the front and the rear at 3950 lb which is obviously more than the 7200 lb total.  The other (tire) sticker says cargo should never go over 1653 lb.  I don't really get this at all.

 

So, it seems like I'd be overweight if I have 4 people in the truck (let's be kind and say 150 lbs each) is 600 lbs and 1000 lbs tongue weight and I'm at max.  Right?  Also, doesn't seem like it matters how much I tow as long as it's under 12000 total weight and my tongue weight and cargo are within limits.

 

Do I understand this correctly?  Sorry for not understanding this, but I've never towed before and I want to go looking for a camper trailer and I want to make sure I understand this so I don't get sold something that isn't right for my truck.  Both with respect to the trailer and the towing equipment.

 

Thanks.

[jhplak325]

8 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Class III

These versatile trailer hitch receivers are typically installed on pickup trucks, minivans, and full-size SUVs. Class III hitches use a 2" x 2" receiver tube for the ball mount, and they are rated for towing a gross trailer weight ranging from 3,500 to 6,000 lbs and a tongue weight ranging from 350 to 600 lbs. These are usually used for towing mid-sized campers, utility trailers, and mid-sized boats.

Opening Sizes	GTW	Tongue Weight Capacity
2"	3,500-6,000 lbs	350-600 lbs

Class IV

 

These heavy-duty hitch receivers are typically installed on heavy-duty pickup trucks and large SUVs. Class IV hitches use a 2" x 2" receiver tube for the ball mount, and they are rated for towing a gross trailer weight ranging from 6,000 to 10,000 lbs and a tongue weight ranging from 600 to 1,000 lbs. These are usually used for towing heavy loads, including large campers, boats, and toy haulers.

Opening Sizes	GTW	Tongue Weight Capacity
2"	6,000-10,000 lbs	600-1,000 lbs

Class V

These hitch receivers are the heaviest-duty models that can be installed on the rear of a tow vehicle, and they’re typically mounted on heavy-duty and commercial trucks. Class V hitches use a 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" receiver tube for the ball mount, and they are rated for towing a gross trailer weight of more than 10,000 lbs and a tongue weight ranging from 1,000 to 1,200 lbs. These are usually used for towing heavy loads including full-sized campers, large boats, and equipment trailers of all sizes.

Opening Sizes	GTW	Tongue Weight Capacity
2-1/2"	Over 10,000 lbs	1,000-1,200 lbs

Curt offers a Class V with a 2” square opening. 

[dieselfan1]

1 hour ago, GN2018 said:

So, my build sheet has Z82 and Z85.  What does that mean?  I understand it means I have the towing package, but how do I determine what class hitch I have and what is my max towing.

 

The label on my hitch is like the one above - 1,200 lb tongue weight and 12,000 lb total weight.  Is that Class 3?

 

The GVW on the door says 7200 lb.  It splits that between the front and the rear at 3950 lb which is obviously more than the 7200 lb total.  The other (tire) sticker says cargo should never go over 1653 lb.  I don't really get this at all.

 

So, it seems like I'd be overweight if I have 4 people in the truck (let's be kind and say 150 lbs each) is 600 lbs and 1000 lbs tongue weight and I'm at max.  Right?  Also, doesn't seem like it matters how much I tow as long as it's under 12000 total weight and my tongue weight and cargo are within limits.

 

Do I understand this correctly?  Sorry for not understanding this, but I've never towed before and I want to go looking for a camper trailer and I want to make sure I understand this so I don't get sold something that isn't right for my truck.  Both with respect to the trailer and the towing equipment.

 

Thanks.

Z82 is the RPO for the trailer hitch platform and wiring harness. (trailering package)

Z85 is the RPO for the standard suspension (non Z71)

[Jacoby]

2 hours ago, GN2018 said:

So, my build sheet has Z82 and Z85.  What does that mean?  I understand it means I have the towing package, but how do I determine what class hitch I have and what is my max towing.

 

The label on my hitch is like the one above - 1,200 lb tongue weight and 12,000 lb total weight.  Is that Class 3?

 

The GVW on the door says 7200 lb.  It splits that between the front and the rear at 3950 lb which is obviously more than the 7200 lb total.  The other (tire) sticker says cargo should never go over 1653 lb.  I don't really get this at all.

 

So, it seems like I'd be overweight if I have 4 people in the truck (let's be kind and say 150 lbs each) is 600 lbs and 1000 lbs tongue weight and I'm at max.  Right?  Also, doesn't seem like it matters how much I tow as long as it's under 12000 total weight and my tongue weight and cargo are within limits.

 

Do I understand this correctly?  Sorry for not understanding this, but I've never towed before and I want to go looking for a camper trailer and I want to make sure I understand this so I don't get sold something that isn't right for my truck.  Both with respect to the trailer and the towing equipment.

 

Thanks.

Don’t over think it bro. There’s a lot of us pulling big ass trailers 7000-9000lbs with the family in tow and having no issues. If you’re gonna be pulling heavy just make sure you got a WD hitch and balance the load and you’ll be fine. Make sure all tour breaks are in good shape. 

 

A 1500 is going to get a class 4 hitch no matter the towing capacity it’s rated for. 2500 and up will usually get a class 5 with a 2.5 receiver and usually come with an adapter to make it 2”

[Bikemobile]

Ive towed a U-Haul double axle car hauler with a honda CRV on it. No problems. The uhaul auto transports I’ve used have surge brakes which work ok. The tongue weight wasn’t too bad. 

 

Check the tires on the trailer before you leave the UHaul place. They run them to the cords. 

[Timd32]

On 4/25/2019 at 9:55 PM, EDL said:

The trailer is 2230ish lbs and the curb weight on the car (per spec) is a little over 2600lbs.  I'm gonna be safe and say 5,000lbs total for trailer and car.  With that weight, that means I'm looking at a tongue weight of around 750 to 800lbs.

Going back to what you thought you were towing, your more than fine, I think you might be heavy on that quoted tounge weight but you over estimated which is the better way to go.

 

You got this covered......IMO your in the weeds going over way too many #'s, pick a decent drop value for your ball mount, or maybe they even rent them at Uhaul with tthe trailer, IDK, hook up the trailer, load it, strap it down and, get home and get wrenching....

 

Sounds like you wont be pulling much or often so try not to overspend on some super fancy set up. 

 

Happy motoring...?

[Darksky]

Our trucks have class IV hitches. They are NOT weight distribution hitches. They are quite strong, rated for more than our 1500s will pull. They are designed and used, so that they will not be the weak link in this application.

 

 

[Nitrousbird]

That damn V-5 on the sticker plus 12k rating made me think I had a class 5 without measuring.  I ended up getting a 2.5" version of the really nice B&W tow and stow adjustable drop hitch.  Fortunately, I scored such a good deal I sold it for a profit.

[EDL]

9 hours ago, Timd32 said:

Going back to what you thought you were towing, your more than fine, I think you might be heavy on that quoted tounge weight but you over estimated which is the better way to go.

 

You got this covered......IMO your in the weeds going over way too many #'s, pick a decent drop value for your ball mount, or maybe they even rent them at Uhaul with tthe trailer, IDK, hook up the trailer, load it, strap it down and, get home and get wrenching....

 

Sounds like you wont be pulling much or often so try not to overspend on some super fancy set up. 

 

Happy motoring...?

Yeah, I'm good, looked at the placard under the hitch as someone pointed out, same exact one, hitch is rated to 12,000lbs and 1200lbs tongue.  The double cab 4x4 with 6.2L I have is rated to haul up to 9100lbs as per GM, so I'm good there.

 

Only thing was finding a ball mount for the weight.  The only thing I could find at a local store was a solid shank 3-ball mount.  The 2" ball (which the trailer uses per u-haul) is rated to 10,000lbs and 1,000lbs on the tongue, so it's all good there.  The only thing is, it's a straight shank, no drop.  I hope that doesn't jack the front of the trailer too high.  Where I have to take the car from, the apartment parking lot is down hill onto the main road, I hope the rear end of the trailer doesn't drag getting out of the parking lot....but, about to hit the road right now, so I'll find out in a couple hours....

[EDL]

OK, car hauled home.  Easy peasy.  I am quite impressed with that 6.2L.  It hardly struggled, even up the hills here in PA (I think it kicked down once or twice and revved to about 3,000 RPM to pull a couple hills at 55MPH, most of the time it'd just drop a gear and hit 2200-2400 RPM).  I played with tow/haul mode, but honestly, didn't even really need it.  I filled up with gas before heading home and filled up when I got back, 15.2MPG for the 2.5 hour drive which was mostly 2-lane, 55MPH, some 35-40 MPH through some towns and a jaunt on I-80 where I cruised around 65.  Not going to complain with that.  And as far as the straight shank hitch, once we got the car on the trailer, it set just about perfectly level. 

 

Now, after this, two things I would definitely change on the truck if I were going to haul 5,000ish pounds for a longer distance.  I would probably put one of those Roadmaster "Active suspension" leaf spring assists on it and I would consider better rotors and pads for the brakes.  The rear suspension was a tad squishy and every bump felt like it was coming through the bed of the truck.  Brakes were adequate, but downhill braking I was wishing for a little more pedal.  Then again, that u-haul trailer didn't have electronic brakes, it had that weight shift set up on the tongue that's supposed to apply brakes to the trailer as the weight shifts forward under braking, but I can't honestly say if they were working or not, or just out of adjustment.  All in all though, I won't complain too loudly.  Even without the max tow package, this thing is quite capable. 

 

Attached is a photo of the setup (as much as I could fit in the picture) after got the car onto the trailer.

[JimCost2014]

17 hours ago, EDL said:

OK, car hauled home.  Easy peasy.  I am quite impressed with that 6.2L.  It hardly struggled, even up the hills here in PA (I think it kicked down once or twice and revved to about 3,000 RPM to pull a couple hills at 55MPH, most of the time it'd just drop a gear and hit 2200-2400 RPM).  I played with tow/haul mode, but honestly, didn't even really need it.  I filled up with gas before heading home and filled up when I got back, 15.2MPG for the 2.5 hour drive which was mostly 2-lane, 55MPH, some 35-40 MPH through some towns and a jaunt on I-80 where I cruised around 65.  Not going to complain with that.  And as far as the straight shank hitch, once we got the car on the trailer, it set just about perfectly level. 

 

Now, after this, two things I would definitely change on the truck if I were going to haul 5,000ish pounds for a longer distance.  I would probably put one of those Roadmaster "Active suspension" leaf spring assists on it and I would consider better rotors and pads for the brakes.  The rear suspension was a tad squishy and every bump felt like it was coming through the bed of the truck.  Brakes were adequate, but downhill braking I was wishing for a little more pedal.  Then again, that u-haul trailer didn't have electronic brakes, it had that weight shift set up on the tongue that's supposed to apply brakes to the trailer as the weight shifts forward under braking, but I can't honestly say if they were working or not, or just out of adjustment.  All in all though, I won't complain too loudly.  Even without the max tow package, this thing is quite capable. 

 

Attached is a photo of the setup (as much as I could fit in the picture) after got the car onto the trailer.

Good to hear it worked out,

 

Great looking truck by the way, looks just like the 16 I had!!!!