Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/9/2020 at 8:07 AM, Oscarj said:

Not to be a pain but can you post some more pics?
Side view to see gap? Front view? Know what I mean? As said before in this thread this is the same direction I plan on going but with the 33x12.5 on exact factory rims. Nice set up by the way!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Files are all pretty large so having trouble attaching. This kinda shows the front. 

IMG_4562.jpg

Posted

What tire are you running exactly? I’d like to check the real specs so I can translate to other tires. Any more pics? Thanks man


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/20/2020 at 9:37 AM, coty52 said:

Files are all pretty large so having trouble attaching. This kinda shows the front. 

IMG_4562.jpg

Truck looks perfect. I’m aiming for similar setup on Chevy and this is giving me confidence to go with the 35/12.5 over the 35/11.5.

Also Know Sierra’s have slightly smaller wheel wells, but wondering what all you had to trim? Any pics of the trim areas?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
22 hours ago, balaraform said:

Im getting a 4 inch lift done on my 1500 SLT, they are telling me a 35 will fit.  Can you take pictures of what you had to trim?

i will indeed. its just the mudflap though. If youre not running a factory wheel then thats a different story though.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
i will indeed. its just the mudflap though. If youre not running a factory wheel then thats a different story though.
 

Yes pics please... trying to decide lift or level, want 35s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/3/2020 at 12:53 PM, Anakalypto said:


Yes pics please... trying to decide lift or level, want 35s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a good guide for what you need to modify.https://wheelsasap.com/gmc-at4-oversized-tire-trimming-guide/ I'd start by removing the bracket and pulling the flap and wheel well liner back as far as you can. Several folks have said you don't have to trim so much. I'll be doing this very soon myself. 

 

Here's a link to what another guy said he did on his Sierra: 

 

Edited by jbr1888
Posted
3 hours ago, jbr1888 said:

This is a good guide for what you need to modify.https://wheelsasap.com/gmc-at4-oversized-tire-trimming-guide/ I'd start by removing the bracket and pulling the flap and wheel well liner back as far as you can. Several folks have said you don't have to trim so much. I'll be doing this very soon myself. 

 

Here's a link to what another guy said he did on his Sierra: 

 

 

This is helpful, thx for sharing.

 

Anyone have some insight on the ride difference I might see putting 34" tires on a Denali with a 2" front leveling kit? I'm ditching the 22s that came on my rig and putting 20x9 +1 wheels on it soon. Was originally planning to go with stock size 275/60/20 (33x10.8) KO2s. However, this thread has me thinking about going a bit bigger with 295/60/20 (33.9x11.6) Pro Comp A/T Sports. I figure I would likely need to trim a bit less with a 34" tire vs coty52's 35s, which is nice, however I am more concerned with the bigger change in ride and fuel economy. So... curious if anyone has put ~34x11.5 tires on their standard leveled rig yet and can share how it rides.

Posted
1 hour ago, grrr027 said:

 

This is helpful, thx for sharing.

 

Anyone have some insight on the ride difference I might see putting 34" tires on a Denali with a 2" front leveling kit? I'm ditching the 22s that came on my rig and putting 20x9 +1 wheels on it soon. Was originally planning to go with stock size 275/60/20 (33x10.8) KO2s. However, this thread has me thinking about going a bit bigger with 295/60/20 (33.9x11.6) Pro Comp A/T Sports. I figure I would likely need to trim a bit less with a 34" tire vs coty52's 35s, which is nice, however I am more concerned with the bigger change in ride and fuel economy. So... curious if anyone has put ~34x11.5 tires on their standard leveled rig yet and can share how it rides.

Your problem is going to be that since you went with aftermarket wheel, youll rub alot more than i did and need more trimming. As far as the ride, stick with an at tire and youll be happy with ride and fuel. I have a 10 ply mud tire so my ride suffered but after a shock swap im happy again. 

Posted
On 6/3/2020 at 12:53 PM, Anakalypto said:


Yes pics please... trying to decide lift or level, want 35s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This isnt great pic (lots of rain and muddy jobsites lately). But it shows the end product of triming. I used a cut off wheel so its not super smooth but i dont rub and that was my concern. Trim inner mudflap, and throw a ziptie through fender liner hole to pull it back and has been fine for over a year now.

IMG_7675.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, coty52 said:

This isnt great pic (lots of rain and muddy jobsites lately). But it shows the end product of triming. I used a cut off wheel so its not super smooth but i dont rub and that was my concern. Trim inner mudflap, and throw a ziptie through fender liner hole to pull it back and has been fine for over a year now.

IMG_7675.jpg

Did you remove the steel bracket behind the plastic mud flap?

Posted
Just now, jbr1888 said:

Did you remove the steel bracket behind the plastic mud flap?

Yep. Thats what lets you move the fender liner back. 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...