Jump to content

Oil Change - Dealership vs DIY


Recommended Posts

Posted

I prefer doing all my own service. I only go back to the dealer for warranty work or for my free state inspections. It would save me like $10 to do the oil changes at the dealer but I have had too many times in the past where dealers love to put the oil filter on with a damn impact gun and I can't get the thing off the engine so I do it myself. I've also had them leave the fill cap on the top of the intake resonator. 

 

So far I have bled out some brake fluid on all 4 calipers (it wasn't even dirty at all but just to keep them from collecting water and rusting out my lines), oil changes, and level inspections on my diff and transfer case. I am going to change out my front diff fluid and transmission fluid next year though just to keep it fresh. My antifreeze was almost clean when the dealer had to replace the thermostat/radiator due to the service bulletin so I will wait a few more years for that and will use one of the air driven water nozzles to blast out any crud in the lines and heater core.

 

If you have the means and know how I always suggest doing it yourself. If it is too much in depth for your experience or you don't have time then take it in.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
20 minutes ago, Donstar said:

I enjoy DIY projects and handyman type repairs.  The rewards for doing things myself are personal satisfaction and saving money.  I find no satisfaction in changing my own oil and the cost saving isn't enough to provide incentive.  I enjoy waiting at the dealership and checking out the inventory!

 

This is my take as well.  I enjoy doing the DIY stuff, but only if its really worth the time and effort (and cost savings).  For an oil change, I don't mind going 5 minutes from the house and waiting an hour for them to do it, however, maybe the next one I'll try myself.  There's also the peace of mind of doing the job correctly, not that an oil change is rocket science, but they can screw it up by the sounds of it.

Posted

Depends on my time and if i want to clean the back side of my wheels when i rotate them. I also get coupons from the dealership most months so i do it DIY and dealership. 

Posted

For me it boils down to time. I can change it in leas than an hour in my driveway while my son is outside playing vs wasting half of my day off sitting in the service department waiting room watching the price is right and days of our lives.

Posted

I was raised on a farm and we did everything ourselves.  EVERYTHING.

 

But now with a family of my own, I've opted for paying somebody to do lots of things.  Vehicle maintenance fell in that category when I had my first kid.  There's a good one-man-shop mechanic that I can walk to from work, and he'll change oil for $40 (approx). 

 

My time is worth more than that.  Even if I had everything laid out, an oil change would take me over an hour by the time you count cleanup.  And my time is worth more than $40 per hour.  Especially now with 2 kids, both under 4, I don't even have time to crap at home!  

Posted
1 hour ago, kickass audio said:

I only go back to the dealer for warranty work or for my free state inspections. It would save me like $10 to do the oil changes at the dealer but I have had too many times in the past where dealers love to put the oil filter on with a damn impact gun and I can't get the thing off the engine so I do it myself. I've also had them leave the fill cap on the top of the intake resonator. 

I only go to the GM dealer for warranty work or for complicated electronics issues. Any other, more simple maintenance & repairs I take to a local mechanic that I trust.

 

If I was going to pay for someone to change my oil, I'd rather go to a local quick lube than pay the dealer's labor charge.

 

I hate trying to take lugnuts off after the dealer tightens them with the gun. I thought I was going to break my 18" craftsman bar or twist the stud off last time.

Posted

I have 2 teenagers at home.  I use the routine and larger maintenance as a teaching tool for them.  Plus I just like doing it.  I'll do just about everything myself except anything covered by warranty.  I'm gathering parts now to change the steering gear on my 2000 Sierra.  I will take it in for alignment once I'm done.  I don't have those tools.

 

I just don't want my kids to be totally ignorant when it comes to how their vehicles work.  Ignorant people get taken advantage of.

Posted

I always used to change the oil in my F150, but I bought it used and there was no warranty. I am still on the fence about my Sierra; it is the first vehicle I have ever bought new. I have used the 3 free oil changes I got when I bought it and I need to decide on whether to continue to take it to the dealership or take the reins back. The folks at my dealership are very nice, and always seem to do a nice job. Part of me does feel like continuing that relationship with them in the service dept. might pay off dividends if needed in the future? Maybe not, who knows. Around here, with a coupon they send every month, I can get lube/oil/filter, "multi-point inspection", and a tire rotation for $59.95. I think that's pretty hard to beat given that the materials for an oil change would be $50...That's $10 bucks for a tire rotation, a "multi-point inspection", and my time. I would agree that my time is worth more than that but on the other hand, it is definitely satisfying to do your own work and know it's done right.

Posted

I change my own oil on all our cars/trucks.  I just know it's done right if I do it.  I found that you can use the mychevrolet website to record it as well.  There is even a place where you can upload pics of the receipts.  It's pretty handy to keep all the info together.

Posted

My local discount tire does air check for free and once you buy tires rotation is free.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I use to change the oil on our vehicles, rotate the tires, and all on my own, especially when I was on active duty and we were down to one income.  Our current vehicles all came with FREE oil changes, and it kind of spoiled me.  So now I schedule them, one at a time, for a early Monday or Saturday morning, take whoever is driving that vehicle the most with me, and take them to breakfast, while we wait.  Like others have said, I don't have to worry about getting, nor keeping on hand, new oil & filters, nor getting rid of the used oil, and there's no mess in my driveway or garage.  The only downside, is when they're troubleshooting something and it runs into my heading to work or work time.

Posted
1 hour ago, Mike GMC said:

 

I just don't want my kids to be totally ignorant when it comes to how their vehicles work.  Ignorant people get taken advantage of.

That's another great point. Well said.

Posted

Just got mine changed yesterday and it was $87 for a change and tire rotation somehow.  I can get Mobil1 at Costco for much much cheaper, or move to a better quality oil and save a decent amount of $$ it seems.  There are a lot of places that will take oil so not really that much of an issue.  Seems like my dealer is quite a bit more expensive than others.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Havvkeye said:

Just got mine changed yesterday and it was $87 for a change and tire rotation somehow.  I can get Mobil1 at Costco for much much cheaper, or move to a better quality oil and save a decent amount of $$ it seems.  There are a lot of places that will take oil so not really that much of an issue.  Seems like my dealer is quite a bit more expensive than others.

Yes, that is how much my dealership normally charges...go to their website and get that service special coupon..I think just about all of them have them available. Like I said before, with that coupon, mine drops to $59.95...

 

image.thumb.png.139ed23ddbe4e5031b9684a9c7abe547.png

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 356 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...