Jump to content

2019+ leveled trucks

jimmyboy8301
 Share

Recommended Posts

SSCHUU Enthusiast

SSCHUU

Posted
Posted
On 3/9/2021 at 3:07 AM, dram1983361 said:

On a 2wd it's not as critical since there is no front axle shaft that could potentially hit/rub on a bottom mount if you go with 2"+ lift blocks. You could go with either or both depending on how high you go. More than 3" I believe (someone who's done it correct me if I'm wrong) you will want to consider getting new upper control arms.

Bottom mounts are a little easier to install since you don't have to remove the struts. You should still get the alignment checked regardless of which type of level you use as well.

Makes sense. I appreciate the insight! Still trying to learn the ins and outs of this truck!

  • 5 months later...
  • Replies 537
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BlackLS
BlackLS

1.5" Motofab leveling kit. I plan to run this spacer until BDS comes out with a 4" lift for the Trail Boss/AT4  

Bluerado23
Bluerado23

2” ready lift front only 315/70/17 ko2 17x9.5 wheels

asalinasz39
asalinasz39

Just a 1.5” in the front with motofab lower strut spacer. Still have 1” rake and stock duratracs 32.3” tall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted Images

Dylan199 Enthusiast

Dylan199

Posted
Posted

I have read through all 35 pages and didn't see the answer to a question I have. 

 

I have a 2020 Denali and just installed Motofab 1.5" front leveling blocks. The kit did not come with the ARC relocation bracket, nor is it shown anywhere on Motofabs site (other companies supply them with a 2" lift). My question is, do I need the brackets (I don't have any dash sensors lighting up) or will I be okay without them? I have called and emailed the company, but they are not responding. 

  • 2 weeks later...
bobboberton1 Enthusiast

bobboberton1

Posted
Posted

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you. 

  • 2 weeks later...
malibu43 Enthusiast

malibu43

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 9/22/2021 at 2:06 AM, Brandon Martin said:

Is it better to use the leveling "pucks" that go on top of the strut or the brackets on bottom?

If you are 4WD, then pucks that mount on top of the strut for sure.  If you are 2WD then the location is irrelevant.

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 9/21/2021 at 4:09 PM, malibu43 said:

Hey everyone.  I just traded in my 2015 1500 4x4 for a 2021 Z71 RST.  We also recently purchased a 25ft travel trailer that I'll be pulling every month or so with this truck.

 

My old truck had 2" level, and at some point I'd like my new one to sit a little higher as well.  However, since I will be towing with it I want to maintain the factory rake (which is just under 2").  Even with the WD, the back end drops a little more than the front.

 

I was thinking of making the upgrade functional instead of just cosmetic and doing Blistien 5100's up front and setting them for a 1.5-2.0" level, rather than just adding spacers.  I was going to go with the 5100's for the rear as well to help with towing and adding a block as well to lift the same amount as the front.

 

Any issues with this approach, or is there another option I should be considering?  Is there a better option for the rear than the Blistien 5100's plus a block?

20210904_093615.jpg

That will work fine.  Check out the Eibach Pro Truck lift.  It provides springs as well as shocks and the difference in handling is significant.  My truck pulls a trailer much nicer now and handles greater weights without the sway and pontoon effect.

mathnerd Enthusiast

mathnerd

Posted
Posted

This is my 2019 AT4 leveled with Bilstein 6112’s and 2” MotoFab top spacers. It initially was 3/4” high in the front but after 100 miles settled to perfectly level.

04E74569-96DF-49DC-91C1-BE0785B4968D.jpeg

  • Like 1
Seagate Life Enthusiast

Seagate Life

Posted
Posted
On 10/20/2021 at 1:47 PM, Bullseye07 said:

Has anyone done the fox 2.0 coilover kit? 

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

Bullseye07 Enthusiast

Bullseye07

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Seagate Life said:

I tried to get a Fox 2.0 kit last month, but I couldn't find them in stock.  I ended up with Icon Stage 1 instead.  Extremely happy with ride quality and off road performance.  (I'm only 2WD, so nothing muddy or too difficult...just fast dirt trails)  It sits little high in front...maybe because it is 2WD and light in the nose, so I'm going to block it up 1" in the back.  

I was originally planning on bilstein 6112s and 5160s but they’re out of stock everywhere. The fox 2.0 were only a little more and in stock so went ahead and ordered them. 

  • 2 weeks later...
fastk9dad Enthusiast

fastk9dad

Posted
Posted

Has anyone leveled an AT4 with rear shackles and has photos? I went through all 35 pages and only saw a few shackle levels but none were AT4s that I could tell.

85CJ Enthusiast

85CJ

Posted
Posted

I just purchased the 1 inch cognito leveling kit.  I know most of you want 1.5-2 inches, but for my eyes 1 inch looks right.  I will be installing later this week or weekend.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,278 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...