Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have two stainless steel washers spacing it out right now I’m working on machining a one piece.Im pretty sure I’m the first person in the country to do this so far and I can tell you the calipers more then make up for the lack of rotor size it has a very firm peddle as well best peddle I’ve felt on a GM truck 

Posted

If you have someone to help you bleed the brakes this will take less then a hour to install I will send you everything you need to install this kit. just keep in mind I’m running a 22 in GM rim the clearance on the caliper and back side face if the rim is tight but it fit my truck without any spacer on the rim itself 

  • Like 1
Posted

This kit will also fit the 07-13 body truck as well. The calipers are already shared from 07-18 so the dimension for bolt spacing are the same I have already mocked these up on a test spindle in the year range and have proper clearance for the rotor  and caliper this kit should allow fitment on 18in rims since the factory trucks in 19 run that size as a standard option 

Posted
5 minutes ago, ModJunky said:

This kit will also fit the 07-13 body truck as well. The calipers are already shared from 07-18 so the dimension for bolt spacing are the same I have already mocked these up on a test spindle in the year range and have proper clearance for the rotor  and caliper this kit should allow fitment on 18in rims since the factory trucks in 19 run that size as a standard option 

My reason for not wanting to do this and stopping me is the caliper is a lot bigger and i like running 17 and 18" wheels. Which might not clear those

Posted

18 is factory for 19 models so I’m pretty sure it will fit I can get you measurements for center hub to outside of caliper if you need to give you a ideas of how much clearance there is 

Posted (edited)

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?

 

These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

Edited by flyingfool
Posted
unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?
 
These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO
I agree with this unless you have much heavier wheels and tires. Also the pedal feel and customer felt grip or confidence is there.
I have had wilwood,Baer,aerospace, and strange. In everything from daily,autocross, and drag racing. Daily is the most difficult to size and dial in. I believe the compound and surface space is what gave it the feel of being better not the hole and slots or the 6 pistons.
Buddy has hardcore track car and it is solid disc and 4 piston. He swears it doesnt need more then that.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
23 hours ago, flyingfool said:

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD?

 

These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds...   unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

This is not what is being discussed here, the caliper is bigger, which is more clamping force and therefor will stop better. 

 

And bigger rotors, combined with more force, will stop shorter. 

 

For some, a total waste, for some this is a good cheap alternative to a BBK. 

Posted

The Silverado/Sierra also uses engine braking on hills and the like, it's why when you're slowing down it feels like something loosens then clamps down. This reduces brake wear and tear and allows to haul heavy as hell loads. Larger tires are no different than hauling a few extra hundred pounds and braking. The trucks are set up for this.

Now, if you are doing a tonne of hills and braking, or like to speed like a rabbit on crack then they may help you out a bit. They aren't needed, but well, to be honest, they would be a mighty fine upgrade even though the average driver will never need them, and even using larger tires on these trucks it's questionable.

I'm betting upgrading to these would allow one to run their brakes without changing for a fair amount longer.

Posted

Anyone local to my area is welcome to stop by and take a drive with me in the truck to feel the difference I love my truck but never had a ton of confidence in the braking on these trucks always feels like you were going to fast when trying to brake hard,like the truck is always behind on the braking abilities. The peddle feels slightly spongy and has more travel then needed now it feels as though you rest your foot on the peddle and its stopping. If you stomp the peddle it will lock up the tires ive never been able to do that in my truck and now its like i have to relearn the braking in the truck, now its so touchy it gives me a lot of confidence in the braking ability of the truck now i tow on occasion and cant wait to feel the difference when im hauling. Gm went back to the drawing board on this deal and it shows luckily for us they still like to use the parts bin for spacing and spindle dimensions. plus when need to eventually replace the components they can be purchased at any parts store super simple no surprise cost later on. love the setup

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/14/2019 at 7:29 PM, ModJunky said:

Anyone local to my area is welcome to stop by and take a drive with me in the truck to feel the difference I love my truck but never had a ton of confidence in the braking on these trucks always feels like you were going to fast when trying to brake hard,like the truck is always behind on the braking abilities. The peddle feels slightly spongy and has more travel then needed now it feels as though you rest your foot on the peddle and its stopping. If you stomp the peddle it will lock up the tires ive never been able to do that in my truck and now its like i have to relearn the braking in the truck, now its so touchy it gives me a lot of confidence in the braking ability of the truck now i tow on occasion and cant wait to feel the difference when im hauling. Gm went back to the drawing board on this deal and it shows luckily for us they still like to use the parts bin for spacing and spindle dimensions. plus when need to eventually replace the components they can be purchased at any parts store super simple no surprise cost later on. love the setup

yeah these trucks have other issues going on, it's not the calipers or stock rotors... they have the braking power but there is an issue going on with the proportioning valve system

Posted (edited)

I would try installing Green stuff EBC pads up front before doing a Caliper upgrade. way cheaper using pads that don't glaze the rotors

Edited by flyingfool
  • 1 month later...
Posted
Testing the water to see if anyone is interested in purchasing front brake upgrade for 2014-2018 silverado 1/2 ton trucks or Suv. i have a source to acquire like new loaded calipers and the new rotors to make it happen and have the proper spacing requirements to make them work on your truck. I have already done this mod to my 2014 silverado and can tell you it is a very noticeable upgrade from what the oem had to offer in those years as well as a more appealing look all together. Both front calipers loaded with pads and hardware and front rotors 500.00 plus shipping to the lower 48 states. This is a drop in the bucket compared to the thousands it cost to get the Brembo upgrade through GM. message me if your interestedIMG_3009.thumb.JPG.69a69a511f6efc69c2e19ac8da7d8fc3.JPG


Are you also including the necessary spacers?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Could you also post some pics of the old and new rotors, calipers and pads side by side. Is there more contact surface area with the new pads?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • One of the few things I enjoyed about my time in the midwest was taking off on weekend drives. Unlike home, where we are boxed in by mountains and water, those rules don't apply to the inland plains. Roads connect and sprawl everywhere. While Minnesota is flat, it's not completely featureless and there are fast moving rural roads with curves and slight elevation changes. I used to relish heading out in a particular direction with no set destination, no curfew, and weaving through little townships, wherever the roads would take me. Along farms, lakes, or through the deciduous trees... It was beautiful in its own way, and the seasons were so distinct there. Fall drives yielded amazing shows of color and contrast. Summer drives rewarded with the and amber evening glow of the prairie (and lots of juicy bugs).    I do a lot of that here in my home state too. But it's much less mysterious/intriguing. I've traveled most roads in the region, and every road that's fun to drive within a good radius of my house. But every drive, even on the same old roads, is still enjoyable. I know where I can lean hard into the throttle or really throw the car into a curve. There are exercise loops for when I just need to keep certain cars limber, and much longer routes to settle in and enjoy a drive and put some miles on. All the mountains and water make for some really awesome roads for spirited driving. But not all my driving is spirited, for example, that's not really enjoyable in my pickup or this Blazer (that's still here...).   Sometimes a good drive is followed by a ritualistic wash before tucking the car away...
    • 'GMAuthority' is reporting the 2027 HD's will have the L8S 6.6L gasoline V-8.  There was some talk here about the L8S awhile back.  Not sure what changes it will have now as it seems the 2027 emissions regulations have changed from what was originally proposed.  The big question will be is L8S just a stopgap for the last 2 years of the current T1 HD platform or will it carry forward to the next generation 2029 T1-2 HD's?    I assume the L8S will still be a Gen. V engine. 
    • New engines will still be using DEF. You just won't have the limp modes occurring when you run out of DEF now.
    • I am not a NOCO fan for a charger I would leave on a battery 24/7. The reason is, it doesn't really float. It waits until the battery drops to a certain voltage and then charges it back up to 14V. It's better than no charger I guess.
    • I would never do anything but lithium.   If the vehicle is stored, just turn the disconnect off. My batteries are completely disconnected form everything in the trailer when my disconnect is off. Trailers don't always come that way as some still keep the CO/LPG monitor on. When mine is off...it is off.   As far as storage temps, LiFePO4 are good down to -20°C. I would store them in a heated place if it goes below that. You can also get heating mats with a thermostat if power is available.   The way the heaters work, if it's below 0°C, if a charge comes in, it is directed entirely to the heater until the battery gets above 0°C and then it allows the charge to go to the battery.   For my Android tablet I use as a display, I can move it inside my house if I was ever in an area that got super cold.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...