Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

One thing I wanted GM to do badly was add a LARGER fuel tank with the new trucks.  Somehow they ended up making them even smaller.  24 gallons... really?  In years past, I've not seen any aftermarket fuel tanks for GM half ton trucks that were larger.  They do offer larger ones for the Diesel trucks though.

 

Ford you can get 36 gallon tanks, and Ram 33 gallon tanks.  That is a huge difference.  This is one huge reason that I am hesitant to buy one of the new trucks.  Does anyone know if there is a larger fuel tank option in the makes from GM?  I shouldn't have to shop the aftermarket for something like that when it could be a factory GM option.  

Posted

The HD trucks have bigger fuel tanks and I think the only 1500 with bigger tank is long bed regular cab.   It’s been that way forever with GM I believe.

 

I imagine even with Ford it’s hard to find trucks on dealer lots with the bigger half ton tank.  I looked forever for a Tundra with the bigger tank and it’s a crapshoot.   Sort of like trying to find a Chevy 1500 crew cab with a standard sized bed!

 

just letting you know it’s not easy, but certainly a guarantee when you move up to the HD line

  • Like 1
Posted

Yup... the 24 sucks....  especially coming from my Duramax with a 59gal tank.. These frequent fill ups are killing me...

Posted

Yeah, it sucks, but there's just not that much room for more tank under the CC.

 

On the plus side, my current truck gets the same amount of miles out of 24 gallons that my old truck got out of 30 gallons!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Plenty of room on the passenger side to add a second or saddle tank...  even if its not a full size but add another 15 + gal

 

Just looked under my double cab and there is an easy 15" of usable space in front of the current tank just vacant... Yes it crosses the cab / bed plane but its all the same frame... 

Edited by NHAT4
Posted

The competition has a huge edge over GM in this category.  I don't know what they were thinking, trying to get a best in class tow rating, with the smallest fuel tank in the class. 

 

Not too many people want to tow 13,000 lb with a half ton truck, and not too many people want to stop for gas at every station they pass when towing their travel trailer. 

  • Like 1
Posted
35 minutes ago, rkj__ said:

The competition has a huge edge over GM in this category.  I don't know what they were thinking, trying to get a best in class tow rating, with the smallest fuel tank in the class. 

 

Not too many people want to tow 13,000 lb with a half ton truck, and not too many people want to stop for gas at every station they pass when towing their travel trailer. 

I know what you are saying. But if you are really towing something and getting 10 mpg, you can still make it over 200 miles, that's about 3 hours on the interstate. So you can pass a few stations. I for one enjoy stretching my legs and hitting the john about every 3 hours anyway.

 

There are ways to add auxiliary tanks if you really want to. For those that serious about towing large, heavy TT's, the HD trucks are probably a much better looking option.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, aseibel said:

I know what you are saying. But if you are really towing something and getting 10 mpg, you can still make it over 200 miles, that's about 3 hours on the interstate. So you can pass a few stations. I for one enjoy stretching my legs and hitting the john about every 3 hours anyway.

 

There are ways to add auxiliary tanks if you really want to. For those that serious about towing large, heavy TT's, the HD trucks are probably a much better looking option.

In rural areas, fuel stations can be very far apart.  Also, if you do any driving late at night, stations that do actually exist, are closed anyway.  For those more extreme situations, some extra fuel cans in the bed can get you trough, but it's just nicer to not have to pack 'em. 

  • Like 4
Posted

With a 24 gallon tank towing and averaging 15 mpg that will get you 360 miles or approximately 5.14 hours of drive time at 70 mph. I don't know about you, but somewhere during that 5 hours you will surely pass a station that is open. Not to mention most people need to stretch and hit the bathroom. If nothing else other than for safety or from the fatigue of driving for long periods of time.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

This is ridiculous. Some of you are justifying the 24 gallon tank and that total bs. Driving west from mn with a sled deck alone will make the drive painful. There needs to ba at least another 4-5 gallons minimum. Preferably a 30 gallon tank with the “max trailer package”.  I was litterally going to buy a new LTZ. Tomorrow but will not if I can’t find a solution. Complete hors#@t GM! 

Posted

My '15 F150 Lariat I traded in for my TB had a 36 gallon tank.  It was NICE!  I didn't realize how much I'd miss that.

Posted

Yeah.  I just did a road trip today for Thanksgiving.  5.5 Hours straight thru on 95 South from PA to NC averaging 72 MPH, I got 396 miles out of the tank before I hit the station.  The low fuel light came on with 60 miles left on the tank, about 15 minutes before I stopped.  I put 22.5 gallons back in it.  Not bad 17.6MPG. 

 

If I was pulling a trailer, I would have had to stop at least once to make it that far, justifying the need for a larger fuel tank option in my opinion.  

 

  • 10 months later...
Posted

I too am looking for a bigger tank or aux tank I can replace/add to my 2019 Silverado.  Someone said 15 mpg towing a travel trailer, I almost croaked.  I just returned from a round trip to Cali from south Texas and the BEST I got towing a 5000 lb travel trailer was 10.5 mpg on flat road with no wind.  For the entire trip I averaged 9 mpg, 90% at 60-65 mph.  On last leg coming home with a 10-12 mph headwind I got 7.7 mpg at 65-70 mph.   I have a wind deflector on the cab of the truck too!  For now I carry 5 gals on a carrier behind my trailer, just in case but it is a real pain getting it into the tank due to the flap at the inlet.

Posted (edited)

Would be nice if there was an option. I mean there is extra space as they made gas crew cabs have the same layout as diesels with a def tank. My 2019 ram had a 124 litre tank.  Was able to get 1100kms of range. Took my truck on a long trip to the next province over to do a track day with my motorbike. The gas prices in the other province are through the roof so i had to top up at the provincial border and bring a 25L, 20L and 10L jerry can with me (10L was for the bike) to avoid filling up in that province. A larger tank would avoid that hassle. 

Edited by Snakes709

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
    • Found the fix for this.  Untightan the bolt just below top linkage on the steering column, turn assembly left to reduce space between the two linkage rods at the steering column, tighten bolt.  Made a big improvement.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...