Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/5/2022 at 1:32 AM, Jordy 604 said:

20220930_010557.jpg

20220917_180645.jpg

Specs on your setup?

Posted

This gentleman says he’s put a 285/65/20 set on his AT4. Stock. No rubbing. Haven’t seen anyone else put on this size tire. Can anyone confirm this?? I’m about to pull the trigger on a set for my ‘19 AT4 if so. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/20/2021 at 5:47 PM, GxOxBxLxN said:

Black Rhino 20x9.5 +12mm 

Ridge Grapplers 33x12.50

GM 2” lift and 2” spacer in front

 

 

 

 

6E79EBAA-8C28-4DBC-AD15-73B47946C626.jpeg

37B2F98D-775E-4192-8CE7-C381E16FCEDA.jpeg


I can’t stop looking at this setup! I have some 305/55s in the garage waiting to go on… this is the look I want!

 

You say 2” GM + 2” spacer. So, this is a 4” lift? Or, you put 2” wheel spacers?

 

Any chance you could upload some side pics and a pic from the back? My truck is silver with chrome steps x31 also.

Posted
On 3/22/2022 at 3:38 PM, TyAT4_6.2 said:

Stock height? Any rubbing or trimming?


sorry for the late response. That was stock at4 height there wasn’t much rubbing at all except in certain situations it could touch the mud flap a little bit but not enough to worry about trimming.

Posted
7 hours ago, Andy Toledo said:

20x9 Fuel Rebels +20

1.5 spacers

37 Falken Wildpeaks

6” RC lift with Vertex COs

 

D605D498-D56C-4E2E-9C9B-77E343736207.jpeg

What brand spacers and any issues with torque or vibrations?

 

Awesome ride!

 

 

 

 

Posted
On 12/1/2022 at 9:16 PM, daltonc2425 said:

What brand spacers and any issues with torque or vibrations?

 

Awesome ride!

 

 

 

 

KSP hub centric spacers. No issues at all 

  • Like 1
Posted

Why buy spacers instead of 0 or negative offset wheels to get the look/fitment you want?

Posted

20 x 9 Fuel Contra  +2

35/12.5s Kenda Klever R/T Hybrids

3" Superlift w/A arms

No Spacers . Slight rub at full lock when hitting a dip. Trimmed Mud flaps and pulled back liner   409056859_Trucknewwheels.thumb.jpg.ae8be0b1ff558186d970e0201cc37aca.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

295/70/r18 KO2's on stock AT4 rims, no lift, no level. She rubs but barely at full lock when going up/down an incline on angle. I do have the added on mud flaps which is what they're hitting. With them removed no rubbing at all. 

IMG_20221204_191313.jpg

IMG_20221204_211745.jpg

IMG_20221204_211416.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 12/4/2022 at 7:18 PM, GETGONE said:

Why buy spacers instead of 0 or negative offset wheels to get the look/fitment you want?

Bought wheels that would work with different lift kit. Lift was in back order so switched lift kits and wheels wouldn’t clear so it was easier to get spacers than buying another set of wheels. Plan to buy new wheels with offset I want in near future to eliminate spacers 

Posted
11 hours ago, Chrisd534 said:

295/70/r18 KO2's on stock AT4 rims, no lift, no level. She rubs but barely at full lock when going up/down an incline on angle. I do have the added on mud flaps which is what they're hitting. With them removed no rubbing at all. 

IMG_20221204_191313.jpg

IMG_20221204_211745.jpg

IMG_20221204_211416.jpg

Truck looks good! Did you do the clear reflectors on the headlights?!?

Posted
13 hours ago, Chrisd534 said:

295/70/r18 KO2's on stock AT4 rims, no lift, no level. She rubs but barely at full lock when going up/down an incline on angle. I do have the added on mud flaps which is what they're hitting. With them removed no rubbing at all. 

IMG_20221204_191313.jpg

IMG_20221204_211745.jpg

IMG_20221204_211416.jpg

More pics of headlights? you do them yourself?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 536 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...