Jump to content

Lookin for replacement shocks


Recommended Posts

Posted
10 minutes ago, Jacoby said:

You think your truck rides rough now, you wait till you get those 5100s on there. 

 

 

Why is that?  Will these be real stiff?

Posted

Most aftermarket shocks will change your ride quality. Bilsteins are excellent oem replacement shocks but will make your truck ride more responsive and will handle bumps much better than the crap ranchos that come with the trucks. If not lifted, Bilstein 4600’s will be your better route, Lifted are the 5100’s.

Remember now, Bilsteins used to come on all GM 4x4 Z71 trucks, I believe up till 2014 (?) then switched to the crappy ranchos shocks due to cost difference.

Bilsteins are your trucks beginner performance shocks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

sounds to me like a set of OEM non z71  shocks is the way to go. a set of 17" rims and 35" tires would help cushion the ride too

Posted
23 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

sounds to me like a set of OEM non z71  shocks is the way to go. a set of 17" rims and 35" tires would help cushion the ride too

I agree with non Z71 shocks.  I'm not sure if some premium Monroe's or something would be ideal.  

 

35" tires will almost always be LT, so that could work against you.  I've been waiting for my 17 /33" tired to come in.  Hoping that takes the Bilstein sharpness away.  

 

If you live somewhere with great roads, like Florida or similar where they are always smooth Bilstein's would be a nice upgrade I'd think. 

Posted

I once installed Bilsteins on a 3500 van and the ride was the roughest of just about any Chevy I have ever driven over the last 50 years. I know many people on this web sight seem to love them,  but they don't guarantee the ride. I installed KYB Gas Adjust both front and rear on my 2015 Silverado 1500 Z71. The ride is a little firm, but it has good handling.

Posted
High end ones / wall mounted ones meant for truck springs?  Sure. 
 
Rent a compressor or from auto zone?  No. 
You can easily do a front shock change on the struts if you have an impact gun on a big enough compressor to run down the spring compressor screw. I did it at home on my 2014. You only need enough compression on it to get the pressure off the top nut. Count the exposed threads and make sure you run down that nut the same distance on reassembly.

Release the spring compressors a little at a time on each side until it's free.

Reinstall strut assembly.

Pretty easy.

In a few months, I'm doing it again on my 2017.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

Posted

Just did Bilstein 5100's last weekend on the rear... way better ride, stock jobs from the factory were leaking.

Posted

I too had a leaky rear shock that needed to be replaced. Originals were OEM Ranchos and I replaced with Bilstein 4600 series. I felt they were about the same from a ride perspective but had a little better control over bumps. Eventually I replaced the fronts with 5100 series set to the 2nd highest setting. Again highway smoothness was about the same but MUHC better control over low speed bumps. The first time I went over a speed bump in a parking lot I literally laughed out load. I couldn't believe how much better they were. The OEM shocks would about launch you out of the seat compared to the Bilsteins.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/9/2019 at 11:59 AM, gone_fishing said:

I too had a leaky rear shock that needed to be replaced. Originals were OEM Ranchos and I replaced with Bilstein 4600 series. I felt they were about the same from a ride perspective but had a little better control over bumps. Eventually I replaced the fronts with 5100 series set to the 2nd highest setting. Again highway smoothness was about the same but MUHC better control over low speed bumps. The first time I went over a speed bump in a parking lot I literally laughed out load. I couldn't believe how much better they were. The OEM shocks would about launch you out of the seat compared to the Bilsteins.

Like to pick your brain. I have a 17 High Country 6.2L want to replace all four front and rear and find the orginal just too stiff want a softer ride if that's possible with truck. Theres only 31,000 kms and there not leaking and not used off road. Will the 4600 series give me that in your opinion or a waste of money?

Posted

A few months after I bought my 2015 Silverado 4x4, I switched all of the stock shocks out with Bilstein 5100s.  I'm active duty and have access to the base auto hobby shop so I used their spring compressor for the front.  I put the front shocks on their highest setting to level out my truck. 

 

Overall, I think it rides pretty great, but I've got nothing else to compare it to.  I've taken it everywhere from rock crawling in Southern California to the mud pits in Florida with no issues.  My only recommendations are to definitely have your front end aligned (the shop I bought the shocks from told me I wouldn't need it but I could see the off-camber wear) and fabricate some sway bar quick-disconnects.  Considering the truck is IFS, you don't get a whole lot more articulation from disconnecting the sway bar but it definitely does ride smoother on trails.  You could also just climb under and unbolt them before you head off road but that's a huge PITA compared to having to just pull a couple of cotter pins out. 

 

I'm also riding on 17" Pro Comp Steel Wheels with 285/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler M/Ts for reference.

 

Hope this helps.

Smaller my truck.jpg

Posted
7 hours ago, High Country 6.2L/8 said:

Like to pick your brain. I have a 17 High Country 6.2L want to replace all four front and rear and find the orginal just too stiff want a softer ride if that's possible with truck. Theres only 31,000 kms and there not leaking and not used off road. Will the 4600 series give me that in your opinion or a waste of money?

It's hard to say if you get much of a softer ride with the 4600's over the OEM shocks. I think they are better over large bumps when at slower speeds and have better handling but on the highway I think they are pretty similar to the OEM. I really didn't notice much difference in this area. Small bumps like tar strips on the road still transfer into the cab.

Posted

On 17 LTZ I replaced the rear OEM with Bilsteins a year ago and did the fronts last week ~40K on them and they are not harsh riding. The OEM were more mushy but when hitting a good bump they would hit hard and bottom out much easier. The new ones are more firm but when hitting the same bump definitely do it with less of an abrupt jarring thump. I am impressed with the ride they give and expect them to get a bit better after break in.

Posted
Like to pick your brain. I have a 17 High Country 6.2L want to replace all four front and rear and find the orginal just too stiff want a softer ride if that's possible with truck. Theres only 31,000 kms and there not leaking and not used off road. Will the 4600 series give me that in your opinion or a waste of money?


If you’re stock suspension then stick with 4600’s.
Posted
6 hours ago, Pearl2017 said:

On 17 LTZ I replaced the rear OEM with Bilsteins a year ago and did the fronts last week ~40K on them and they are not harsh riding. The OEM were more mushy but when hitting a good bump they would hit hard and bottom out much easier. The new ones are more firm but when hitting the same bump definitely do it with less of an abrupt jarring thump. I am impressed with the ride they give and expect them to get a bit better after break in.

That's all I needed to hear the four of them are gone. I'm quite sure the dealer will replace them with the shocks of my choice under warranty as I'm going to say they ride rough and bottom out. Looking forward to a better ride all around never liked the OEM. Thanks for the response 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am having similar issues.. 08, 4.8L granted I did had a fender bender and minor damage up front passenger side but I don’t think it had anything to do with it.. I had the high and low pressure checked and my fan for my radiator keeps coming on.. replaced the pressure switch and don’t want to keep throwing parts at it. I did have some minor problems here and there like on long road trips sometimes the ac would get a little warm and then on the highway as soon as I give it a little gas or get a little heavier on the petal it started running cooler. Never had an issue with the ac besides the here and there.. but I also started having issues when I fuel up now it takes a bit to start ( super embarrassing) it runs fine and once started ( only happens after fueling up) starts fine any other time. Could they be related?
    • Spent a small fortune on fuel this weekend.   $6.69 diesel, 18 gallons of that. $6.99 92-octane ethanol free, 10 gallons of that for yard machines $5.59 87-octane for one of the cars, 11 gallons.   $250+ and I didn't even get a tug.   Hormuz ain't Hormuzin again, did not see that coming...LOL
    • Appreciate the advice. I've watched multiple videos. Most showing the most complex for those that have a center console, to one that showed maybe 2 pieces of trim being removed, like 6 screws, pulling back the screen and switch assembly, and installing the inline module. And this was a new/newer Silverado. That didn't look too bad. All the others show alot of trim pieces that need to be removed. I've broken those kind of tabs/clips on my C8 Corvette trying to get to the battery, and that was a lot less clips than what I think is involved here after watching multiple videos and looking at my dash today. I have one on the way. Called a reputable stereo place about installing it and got a "minimum" price of $175. Ouch! Looking forward to seeing what the instructions have to say.
    • Hard to say what the issue might be. Anything from the ability to cool the AC condenser up front, to blend door issues in the HVAC unit, to refrigerant charge, to compressor issues or issues in the lines.   Report back what the techs find on the 29th.   GM has service publications which list acceptable vent temperatures and AC pressures at given ambient temps and humidity. They probably won't touch the system if it's operating within those ranges.   I'm also surprised to hear your 2024 with the L8T is still using R134a? I was pretty sure the HD's had switched to the new refrigerant around 2020.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...