Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 minutes ago, Stephen Foster said:

I installed the morimoto 2stroke 3.0 they weren’t cheap but they work great. The light pattern is amazing. I don’t get flashed from oncoming cars they fit in the housing and they work with the DRLs lower voltage. I did two sets of H11s low beam and high beam. The color matches the fog lights perfectly. They have a crisp factory look. Doesn’t look like some cheap aftermarket kit like most of the ones on Amazon. By far a great improvement in visibility they don’t put out as many lumens as some other company’s claim but I’ll deal with that to not blind oncoming traffic. 

Cool, thanks for the info! ill look into those.

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Swerve83 said:

So you have Sealight Laxmas H11 in both your High and Low beams? And didnt have to add a resistor or canbus to the high beams for the DRL to work properly? Im about to pull the trigger on a set of 4 Laxmas H11/H9/H8 LED bulbs for my 2020 LT 3500. Just wanna make sure I dont need any extra additions to make it work properly... 

correct and no nothing but what they sent plug and play......been months and no issues and lighting is way better than stock fo sure.....am sure there are plenty of companies this is just one i went with....but everything works perfectly and lighting is almost identical to my 2019 RST that had LED from factory

Edited by Dunn
Posted
59 minutes ago, Dunn said:

correct and no nothing but what they sent plug and play......been months and no issues and lighting is way better than stock fo sure.....am sure there are plenty of companies this is just one i went with....but everything works perfectly and lighting is almost identical to my 2019 RST that had LED from factory

Awesome! Thanks for the reply! 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Ok gang, I'll have a new 2021 Custom in the next week or two.

Should I be able to go with the above?

The Sealight Laxmas H11 & H9?

Posted

pretty positive there is no difference between 20 and 21 trims......i think even my lights were good for previous years 

 

there are a ton of manufacturers for lights, i do believe LT now has an option for LED headlamps in 21 model if you get specific pkg

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Does any know if there is any  physical difference between the Tail Lights Silverado 1500 vs the 2500.   I noticed the replacement of the non LED reference compatibility with the 1500 and 2500.  I am assuming it is the same for the LED version.

Posted

Does anyone have any updates on their OEM LED conversion? Are the turn signals working properly with the DRL? I really want to do this but it's going to easily cost $1500 so I would like the full functionality of the headlights. 

 

Also has anyone had trouble with their warranty after doing this conversion?  I have a lifetime warranty and would hate to lose it...

Posted (edited)
On 3/20/2021 at 9:33 AM, antvan21 said:

Does anyone have any updates on their OEM LED conversion? Are the turn signals working properly with the DRL? I really want to do this but it's going to easily cost $1500 so I would like the full functionality of the headlights. 

 

Also has anyone had trouble with their warranty after doing this conversion?  I have a lifetime warranty and would hate to lose it...

I have done the conversion on the Head lights, just waiting for the tails lights/W harness to arrive to complete the process.  The LED DRLs replace the non led DRL on the new head lights,  the upper DRL(on the non LEDs) is just a blinker on the conversions.  Other than that all is working fine.  Once you have the new LEDs Headlight assm, I would change the blinker from non led to LED.  it looks that much better.

 

If you are worried about warranty just save your old headlights and switch when you send it in for major service ( it only takes an hour or two).   As far as the cost you should be able to do this for under $900 if you use Ebay.  If you sell you old headlights you can cut that in half.

 

By the way how did you get life time warranty?

 

good luck 

Edited by KTDanforth
Posted
On 3/18/2021 at 2:11 PM, KTDanforth said:

Does any know if there is any  physical difference between the Tail Lights Silverado 1500 vs the 2500.   I noticed the replacement of the non LED reference compatibility with the 1500 and 2500.  I am assuming it is the same for the LED version.

Just as a follow up, the 1500s as the same as the 2500s,  I upscaled my LTs non LED Tail light to FULL LED units advertised as from a 1500 2019-20+ module.

Posted
On 7/10/2020 at 8:26 AM, SkidooSteve12 said:

Pictures from when I changed the low beams the other day. The inner wheel liner is unscrewed with a T15 bit. I took out the front 3 on the edge and the front lower middle screw. This gave me plenty of room to get in there while having the tire turned out of the way. Rubber plug pulls out, turn the bulb to release, unplug it and plug in the replacement bulb. Reverse steps and enjoy!

 

IMG_20200707_1.jpg

 

Top hole is the low beam, stock halogen bulb

 

IMG_20200707_2.jpg

 

New LED light

 

IMG_20200707_3.jpg

 

Stock halogen light

 

IMG_20200707_4.jpg

 

Stock vs LED

 

IMG_20200707_5.jpg

 

I don't like that LED pattern and returning it for a different LED model. But I think the driver's side LED matched the halogen pattern. Going to test them again when I swap in the new LED model.

 

IMG_20200707_6.jpg

 

Rubber dust covers

 

IMG_20200707_7.jpg

 

Plenty of room to work with the wheel liner pulled back and tire turned. Putting the wheel liner back into the plastic fender flare took longer than swapping the light out of the socket.

 

IMG_20200707_8.jpg

 

Driver's side light access

 

IMG_20200707_9.jpg

 

Aftermarket LED light installed

 

IMG_20200707_10.jpg

How do you get your orange indicator lights to stay on? Mine only come on and work as a blinker. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Duramax85 said:

How do you get your orange indicator lights to stay on? Mine only come on and work as a blinker. 

For the pictures in the garage I just turned them on with the light switch knob. At night they should stay on automatically along with the headlights.

Posted

I can’t get the to do anything besides work as a blinker. They don’t come on with headlights or with the parking light switch. Is this a design flaw or is something wrong with my truck? I’d like the lights to work as designed. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Duramax85 said:

I can’t get the to do anything besides work as a blinker. They don’t come on with headlights or with the parking light switch. Is this a design flaw or is something wrong with my truck? I’d like the lights to work as designed. 

Can you provide more detail, did you upgrade just the bulbs or the whole lens assembly? 

Posted
4 hours ago, KTDanforth said:

Can you provide more detail, did you upgrade just the bulbs or the whole lens assembly? 

It doesn’t work with original bulbs in place either. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...