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Anyone get the 9L7 Upfitter AUX switches

Brian Romanowski
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MattJames11 Enthusiast

MattJames11

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, AdamAT4 said:

Switch #5 is just in the grey connector, I just cut it from the connector and now you have 5 wire stubs instead or 4. I then routed them all to a terminal block under the hood so ill never need to run through the firewall again.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

@AdamAT4 Where did you get your under hood terminal block from? Any links???? 

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Craftism
Craftism

For those struggling, I've compiled a Google Doc with all the kits, part numbers and my install process.   https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cudKHwiVgJA549Vl_Dyt6bqa1RRblfEMvxkkEm8c9-s/edi

David Withrow
David Withrow

Installed mine today. Hooked up air compressor for air bags.   

Brian Romanowski
Brian Romanowski

I contacted GM upfitter support and got this response a couple months ago:       ImageAndParts.pdf ImageAndParts (1).pdf ImageAndParts (2).pdf

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AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, MattJames11 said:

@AdamAT4 Where did you get your under hood terminal block from? Any links???? 

Just used this guy

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp/1546306-5/1277944?utm_adgroup=Terminal Blocks - Barrier Blocks&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Product_Connectors%2C Interconnects_NEW&utm_term=&productid=1277944&gclid=Cj0KCQjwk8b7BRCaARIsAARRTL4ehIuHa9-4-U9G6y96sTir8R6HtHJJPme7BsFL3y8b9vVwcfU2fXIaAmlKEALw_wcB

 

Brian Romanowski Enthusiast

Brian Romanowski

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Posted
20 hours ago, Brian Romanowski said:

Has anyone been able to get the 84669070 - f block kit recently? 

I was able to find one. I had the local dealer do a parts search and he gave me a list of all the dealers in New England that had it in stock. First one didn't actually have it, second wouldn't sell it because it was for a customer, third one is shipping it to me now.

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Gecko50 Enthusiast

Gecko50

Posted
Posted

Everyone is having fits to get the knee bolster replaced from the kit. I was rooting around and found a complete PDF file from GM on the removal of dash items showing locations of screws as well as clips on the dash. Makes it a lot easier to remove all those panels. Here is the link

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1265/Instrument Panel Knee Bolster Replacement.pdf

So that shows it all. GM u\put 1 screw under the radio lower trim. That makes the process to remove multiple dash panels. So now its there for all to see and get it done.

Gecko50 Enthusiast

Gecko50

Posted
Posted
On 7/11/2020 at 2:37 PM, Gerstein1989 said:

Also I would advise doing the install yourself. My dealership wanted 800$cad for the install which is a rip off. I did it my self. The hardest part is fishing the battery cable through the grommet. I would recommend fishing a electrical fish tape through first. Then once it’s through tape the battery cable to it and pull it through. I was struggling for 45 min before I thought of this. This way you will save 44 min as it takes 1 min doing it this way lol. If you have any questions just message me I’m happy to help

I also thought of a fish tape. It seems like the rubber grommet after you clip off the end has a inner rubber barrier. It was really hard and I fought it as well. A blunt item as a electrician fish tape will not go thru. I used a long craftsman screw driver and I also fought it a long time. I made several piercing thru the rubber but still not very good progress. What I found quickest was was a 1/8 brass rod about 30 inches long (found in Lowes or home depot)  (I had laying around) and clipped it at a 45 angle by my dike pliers. Push thu very easy. Then I used simple concrete tie wire and taped it to the brass rod with wire lube and slipped it thru the grommet. Then i taped the wire connector first and lubed it very well. It went thru ok. I am a electrician and that grommet is a killer. Maybe mine was different. Got it thru and today I'll do the interior part. 

 

Chuck

Gecko50 Enthusiast

Gecko50

Posted
Posted

I wanted to add to this as many trucks did not have 2 clip holes on top of the firewall. Its just not there. The angle makes it almost impossible to get a hole as how tight the confides are. I got lucky as I had a right angle 1/4 drill It fit into the space under the firewall lip. It took about 30 second to do both. If you feel under the plastic lip you can feel the bottom plastic ledge hole that did go thru the top plastic.  I have a picture of the firewall below and I'll make another post on the drill I got from Harbor freight.

 

Chuck

 

 

 

20201016_102301.thumb.jpg.2efd2daba516ae2bf5c391fd4982b240.jpg

Gecko50 Enthusiast

Gecko50

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok here is the drill I had from Harbor Freight. I had it sitting on my shelf. Worked fine and took less than 30 second to make both holes. Due to site photo sizes I could not post the photo.

 

Chuckspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

20201016_103515-1.jpg

Edited by Gecko50
AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted

You can buy a firewall cable insertion tool.

 

This made it fairly easy even tho it was some awkward positioning. I put a wire though I could use to pull all the other wires through with.

 

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

26485cc4852204ea5f65dffc75223f4e.jpg

AdamAT4 Enthusiast

AdamAT4

Posted
Posted
Has anyone found the 14 pin connector missing on their truck? It’s called the IP harness from step 2 and have a block off in it but I can’t find one. 
Its got a cover on it, its just there zip tied under the dash. Mine was easy to find with the knee bolster removed.

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Brian Romanowski Enthusiast

Brian Romanowski

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Posted
11 minutes ago, AdamAT4 said:

Its got a cover on it, its just there zip tied under the dash. Mine was easy to find with the knee bolster removed.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

Found it. It was electrical taped to a wire loom up higher in the dash. Not really where the instructions say it is. Amazing how fast this goes back together. 

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