2017 Silverado 1500 Nothing but Issues

[aaronarf]

1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Curious, what did you trade it in on?

 

How do you like your new ???

I went to a car actually, a fun DD to save some mpg and money - 2019 VW GTI.  

 

I looked at full sizes, SUVs and everything in between.  Next truck will be an F150 3.5 for sure, just going to wait until my commuting distance gets shorter... Didn't want to kill another $60k truck. Going to make due without a truck for a bit, first time I've been without one since 2011. 

 

 

[JimCost2014]

11 minutes ago, aaronarf said:

I went to a car actually, a fun DD to save some mpg and money - 2019 VW GTI.  

 

I looked at full sizes, SUVs and everything in between.  Next truck will be an F150 3.5 for sure, just going to wait until my commuting distance gets shorter... Didn't want to kill another $60k truck. Going to make due without a truck for a bit, first time I've been without one since 2011. 

 

 

Always have liked the GTI's, great car to rip around in.

To date myself, my favorite GTI's (besides the VR6 era) were the 83 & 84's. Rabbit on steroids' (kind of) for the USA market.

 

You will miss your truck though, especially with winter coming.

 

Good luck on what ever you choose for a new truck!!!

 

 

[durandetto]

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 that I bought in January of 2017 and has about 65,000 miles. I bought this truck to be a reliable vehicle that I could drive for at least 200,000 miles. Unfortunately, this truck has been a huge disappointment. I have always done all of the regular maintenance and am shocked that I am having any issues with such a new truck. I feel there is no excuse for a relatively new truck to have a check engine late come on intermittently. Side note all of my issues started at 61,000 miles (just 1,000 miles out of the extended warranty). The first problem was the Stabiltrak and power steering messages kept coming on at random. I took the truck into the dealership and they said it needed a new battery (after just 2.5 years) and somehow the sensors for the Stabiltrak were out of line. That was about $400 right outside of warranty, and then not even a week later the check engine light has started coming on. The truck is throwing code P2198 air to fuel bank 2 ratio. I checked the air intake box and the hose clamp securing the air box to the air intake was loose so i tightened it and the light went out (how the hose was loose right after leaving the dealership is a mystery to me). But now it throws the code causing the check engine light to come on every couple of weeks then I wait a day or two and it goes out. No adverse engine indications or anything out of the norm, until this morning. I started the truck and it ran very rough with high rpm and a message of truck running at reduced power came up. I shut it down and when I cranked it again it immediately ran normal (except check engine light on for P2198). I am very disappointed in the performance and even more so the service that my truck and the dealerships have showed me. I am at the end of knowing what to do with this thing and would like to know if anyone out there has some advice on any of the above information.
 

Listen for a puffing noise coming from your intake. I had the same code and it was caused by bad injector compression seals. Get a scanner and check misfires to pinpoint the problem cylinder.

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[Ed S]

My 14 Sierra has had many issues for an over 50k truck new.. Heated seats, door lock actuator, A/C vent actuator. All failures right out of warranty. I drive my vehicles for a good 20 years before trading or buying a new one. I can tell this truck is not going to even go 10 before a major repair probably. Think I will find me a restored 70's or 80's GM truck and get a actual good truck. Bad fuel mileage but will actually last. Ha.

[L86 All Terrain]

29 minutes ago, Ed S said:

My 14 Sierra has had many issues for an over 50k truck new.. Heated seats, door lock actuator, A/C vent actuator. All failures right out of warranty. I drive my vehicles for a good 20 years before trading or buying a new one. I can tell this truck is not going to even go 10 before a major repair probably. Think I will find me a restored 70's or 80's GM truck and get a actual good truck. Bad fuel mileage but will actually last. Ha.

You cant drive them 20 years anymore. They aren't mechanical trucks anymore, virtually 90% of it is controlled electronically and fixed by software updates. GM isn't going to be issuing software updates for a K2 in 2039, not happening. 

 

The best thing to do with new vehicles is to keep them clean and trade off every few years to recycle 60-70% of your down payment. Unfortunately that is the automaker's plans now. Where you could buy a brand new 1992 extended cab Silverado for $19,900 and drive it for 25 years, now they put out these computer trucks for $60,000 and have you walking in the door 7 years later to replace it because of outdated hardware and software or the 0.5mm body/frame steel is rotten out. Nothing in the modern world is made to last like that anymore, its to stimulate and snowball the economy. I sold a Cat 966C loader from 1978 that works like new, it went to Egypt, meanwhile machines from the late 90's and early 2000's are already dead and being salvaged for parts. They don't make 'em like they used to. 

[Loco-diablo]

On 11/5/2019 at 11:07 AM, adamjonesabm05 said:

I have a 2017 Silverado 1500 that I bought in January of 2017 and has about 65,000 miles. I bought this truck to be a reliable vehicle that I could drive for at least 200,000 miles. Unfortunately, this truck has been a huge disappointment. I have always done all of the regular maintenance and am shocked that I am having any issues with such a new truck. I feel there is no excuse for a relatively new truck to have a check engine late come on intermittently. Side note all of my issues started at 61,000 miles (just 1,000 miles out of the extended warranty). The first problem was the Stabiltrak and power steering messages kept coming on at random. I took the truck into the dealership and they said it needed a new battery (after just 2.5 years) and somehow the sensors for the Stabiltrak were out of line. That was about $400 right outside of warranty, and then not even a week later the check engine light has started coming on. The truck is throwing code P2198 air to fuel bank 2 ratio. I checked the air intake box and the hose clamp securing the air box to the air intake was loose so i tightened it and the light went out (how the hose was loose right after leaving the dealership is a mystery to me). But now it throws the code causing the check engine light to come on every couple of weeks then I wait a day or two and it goes out. No adverse engine indications or anything out of the norm, until this morning. I started the truck and it ran very rough with high rpm and a message of truck running at reduced power came up. I shut it down and when I cranked it again it immediately ran normal (except check engine light on for P2198). I am very disappointed in the performance and even more so the service that my truck and the dealerships have showed me. I am at the end of knowing what to do with this thing and would like to know if anyone out there has some advice on any of the above information.

 

While I understand your frustration, you really haven't done anything except a new battery which can be expected at the 3 year mark. Have you brought it to another dealer or garage to have it looked at? 

[Doublebase]

So a battery and loose hose clamp in 65,000 miles?? And this thing is a 2017, so we're talking 25,000-30,000 a year. That's a lot of driving. A battery and a loose hose clamp that threw a couple lights...and this is a "huge disappointment "? Have you ever driven any other vehicle?

 

I owned a Lexus LS 460, this was their flagship sedan...supposedly the best thing since sliced bread. I spent $1,000 a year on out of pocket repairs on that thing - not maitencance - but unexpected, should never happen, repairs. A heater blower motor...$400. $400! Control arms...$800 (that's me doing it myself - not Lexus - Lexus wanted $3,500). A wheel bearing...$400 (doing it myself, Lexus wanted $900). Brake actuator, right out of warranty ($3,000). Three enourmous factory recalls that required the engine having to be torn apart...rental car, inconvenience...three times...in the shop for days. Oh, and then the control arms went again for a second time (another $800). The ABS wire broke...just damn broke..ABS light blinking every two seconds...$300. Sway bar bushings, links, ball joints. I had to put new tires on that thing every 18 months (without fail). Thing ate tires up. Nothing you could do. Normal. Terrible suspension, terrible suspension geometry, poor design. Goodbye $1,000 every 18 months on tires. Got the car to 150,000 mikes and guess what?? Started consuming oil...1 quart every 1,000 miles. Five thousand miles oil changes using Mobil 1and the rings are shot at 150,000 miles. So now the thing eats and drinks oil. Nice. Then the interior falls apart...dashboard and armrests. It's a big deal. Material just melts right off. Lexus attempted to replace with a "factory recall". Only problem was, parts were not available. No one could get parts for these things unless your mother personally knew the CEO. No one. Seats fell apart too. Paint was the absolute worst paint in the industry...should be name chip, because that's all it did. Think Chevy white paint is bad? It's like Romanesque art compared to Lexus paint.

 

Having said all that, it was an awesome car. Seriously. 

 

Cars break. Trucks break. All of the time...every brand...every...single...one.

[greatmizzou]

My 02 1500 bought new, never saw so much as a brake pad change for 10 years.

 

After about 13-14 years is when the trouble really started...brake line failure, fuel line failure, expensive sensor failure, gasket failure, mechanical failure.    Its like anything and everything had expired past its life expectancy.  Understandably, stuff can only last so long.

 

I don't think its out of line for a 60,000 3 year old truck, well maintained, to stay out of repairs more caused by rust and deterioration.     However, OP your issues sound like small bananas,  sometimes stuff just fails and you gotta roll with the punches.  Its unreasonable to expect every vehicle to be free of defect for thousands of miles.  Every car is going to have some sort of issue. 

 

Do you still owe money on the truck?  If you arent happy driving it you can consider trading it in.  Financially it wont make sense but if you dont want trips to the dealer you can replace it.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[KARNUT]

So a battery and loose hose clamp in 65,000 miles?? And this thing is a 2017, so we're talking 25,000-30,000 a year. That's a lot of driving. A battery and a loose hose clamp that threw a couple lights...and this is a "huge disappointment "? Have you ever driven any other vehicle?
 
I owned a Lexus LS 460, this was their flagship sedan...supposedly the best thing since sliced bread. I spent $1,000 a year on out of pocket repairs on that thing - not maitencance - but unexpected, should never happen, repairs. A heater blower motor...$400. $400! Control arms...$800 (that's me doing it myself - not Lexus - Lexus wanted $3,500). A wheel bearing...$400 (doing it myself, Lexus wanted $900). Brake actuator, right out of warranty ($3,000). Three enourmous factory recalls that required the engine having to be torn apart...rental car, inconvenience...three times...in the shop for days. Oh, and then the control arms went again for a second time (another $800). The ABS wire broke...just damn broke..ABS light blinking every two seconds...$300. Sway bar bushings, links, ball joints. I had to put new tires on that thing every 18 months (without fail). Thing ate tires up. Nothing you could do. Normal. Terrible suspension, terrible suspension geometry, poor design. Goodbye $1,000 every 18 months on tires. Got the car to 150,000 mikes and guess what?? Started consuming oil...1 quart every 1,000 miles. Five thousand miles oil changes using Mobil 1and the rings are shot at 150,000 miles. So now the thing eats and drinks oil. Nice. Then the interior falls apart...dashboard and armrests. It's a big deal. Material just melts right off. Lexus attempted to replace with a "factory recall". Only problem was, parts were not available. No one could get parts for these things unless your mother personally knew the CEO. No one. Seats fell apart too. Paint was the absolute worst paint in the industry...should be name chip, because that's all it did. Think Chevy white paint is bad? It's like Romanesque art compared to Lexus paint.
 
Having said all that, it was an awesome car. Seriously. 
 
Cars break. Trucks break. All of the time...every brand...every...single...one.

Damn really? I was thinking Lexus next. I’ve had 4 Hyundai’s all went to 100K miles flawlessly. Two I still have. My Toyota getting ready to hit 50K in a little over two years no problems. My 01 intagra just maintenance. I’ve only had two vehicles give me problems in over 40 years, both under warranty.


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[TXGREEK]

Each and every manufacturer has problems, yours are minimum. You should look at the forums of other manufacturers, all manufacturers have problems and though we can all see your frustration, your issues are considered minimal. I’d get a tuner, read your codes, turn off you AFM, etc etc.

My sister in law “HAD” 2019 $100K navigator, massive electrical issues, buy back was done and 6 months later they traded the new one in for a LandCruiser. Saw her last week, asked her how she’s liking her LandCruiser, SHE LOVES IT! Reliability and safety over performance and over done electronics.




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[Doublebase]

3 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Damn really? I was thinking Lexus next. I’ve had 4 Hyundai’s all went to 100K miles flawlessly. Two I still have. My Toyota getting ready to hit 50K in a little over two years no problems. My 01 intagra just maintenance. I’ve only had two vehicles give me problems in over 40 years, both under warranty.


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Probably depends on which Lexus vehicle you're interested in - the LS460 was a great car, it's problem really was the suspension, melting interior and brake actuator...and I just happened to hit all three on my way to 179,000 miles. The oil consumption is something I probably could have driven the car another 100,000 miles with. Honestly compared to it's competitors (Mercedes S Class and BMW 7 series), the LS460 is incredibly reliable (you should see what those guys go through for repairs, they think nothing of spending $20,000 in out of pocket repairs to their transmissions, electrical nightmares and steering system failures.

 

If I was looking for an inexpensive reliable Lexus right now, I'd probably look at the ES350 or the RX350....maybe a GS350. They have a big SUV...GX460?? Something like that, it's really reliable but expensive.   

[KARNUT]

Probably depends on which Lexus vehicle you're interested in - the LS460 was a great car, it's problem really was the suspension, melting interior and brake actuator...and I just happened to hit all three on my way to 179,000 miles. The oil consumption is something I probably could have driven the car another 100,000 miles with. Honestly compared to it's competitors (Mercedes S Class and BMW 7 series), the LS460 is incredibly reliable (you should see what those guys go through for repairs, they think nothing of spending $20,000 in out of pocket repairs to their transmissions, electrical nightmares and steering system failures.
 
If I was looking for an inexpensive reliable Lexus right now, I'd probably look at the ES350 or the RX350....maybe a GS350. They have a big SUV...GX460?? Something like that, it's really reliable but expensive.   

I’d probably lease one first. I’ll probably stick with Camry, Accord, Mazda 6, as far as purchases from here on out. Probably CPOs, entry levels. Just getting too expensive, too many electronics for my taste.


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