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Posted

I ask, because I have seen it mentioned, but the TB comes already leveled... Well, I mean it has spacers in there, 2", right?

So if you level it more, are you just adding more spacers?  If I recall from doing my 2018 Z71... you only wanted to use 2" or so of spacers on those trucks, to not make the ride harsh or having to start worrying about angles of the driveshaft and stuff like that...

So you guys with TB's, are you removing the 2" spacers it comes with and adding larger suspension spacers?  Is the suspension geometry on the TB different from the prior years where you can get away with larger spacers and not have things rubbing or at bad angles where you have to worry about wearing parts out?

Posted

Trail Boss's are not leveled, they have a 2" factory lift kit, lifted front and rear. People are leveling them, there are a few threads around about it. Trail Boss trucks need a different level kit, also in threads around here someplace. 

Posted

Ok, I will see if I can find them.  I get that they are not "level" in that they lifted the front and back both by 2"...  

I guess that I mean that they lifted it the same way that we would typically "level" it... by using spacers in the front to get it even with the back.  On my 2018, I did a 2.5" level on the front and 3" blocks in the back to keep a little factory rake, so that when I put an ATV or something in the back, it would sit level and not squat like a dog taking a dump...  haha.

This is less about making the truck level and more about how one adds a little more height to the front... I know I can easily swap out the rear 2" blocks with 3" blocks or whatever... But with the front, if it already has 2" spacers in there, do those have to come out and get new ones, or...?

Posted
23 hours ago, SquireSCA said:

Ok, I will see if I can find them.  I get that they are not "level" in that they lifted the front and back both by 2"...  

I guess that I mean that they lifted it the same way that we would typically "level" it... by using spacers in the front to get it even with the back.  On my 2018, I did a 2.5" level on the front and 3" blocks in the back to keep a little factory rake, so that when I put an ATV or something in the back, it would sit level and not squat like a dog taking a dump...  haha.

This is less about making the truck level and more about how one adds a little more height to the front... I know I can easily swap out the rear 2" blocks with 3" blocks or whatever... But with the front, if it already has 2" spacers in there, do those have to come out and get new ones, or...?

I don't have a trail boss but I'm 99% sure they don't use spacers, they use a different strut, then the people who are leveling them use a spacer.

Posted
2 minutes ago, eppieguy said:

I don't have a trail boss but I'm 99% sure they don't use spacers, they use a different strut, then the people who are leveling them use a spacer.

That would be great if they use a different strut, as that means I could lift it a little more and not worry about issues...  

Posted
16 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

That would be great if they use a different strut, as that means I could lift it a little more and not worry about issues...  

Be careful, again, I'd check the leveling companies and other threads, there is a special leveling kit for the Trailboss and CV angles are an issue.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, SquireSCA said:

That would be great if they use a different strut, as that means I could lift it a little more and not worry about issues...  

do not level a Tb!! To much stress on the ball joints. You need new control arms if you level a TB. You’ll need a kit like this

https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-at4-trail-bossgm-1500-truck-2019.html

Edited by Memphis87
  • Confused 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Memphis87 said:

do not level a Tb!! To much stress on the ball joints. You need new control arms if you level a TB. You’ll need a kit like this

https://www.readylift.com/2-25-front-leveling-kit-w-control-arms-at4-trail-bossgm-1500-truck-2019.html

Why would there be to much stress on the ball joint w/ a 1.5" level kit? I have a Trail Boss and added a Rough Country level kit, and everything alinged within factory spec afterwards.  Only thing after market control arms do is give you more caster angle.  I'll give you they do have better ball joints than factory control arms, but that's not saying a leveling kit is damaging the factory control arms in any way.

Posted
Why would there be to much stress on the ball joint w/ a 1.5" level kit? I have a Trail Boss and added a Rough Country level kit, and everything alinged within factory spec afterwards.  Only thing after market control arms do is give you more caster angle.  I'll give you they do have better ball joints than factory control arms, but that's not saying a leveling kit is damaging the factory control arms in any way.


It’s essential 3” of lift in the front. No different than a 3” front kit on a stock truck accept you have longer CV shafts. Puts the angles pretty steep. I have a 3” lift on my truck now and there are tons of people on here saying that’s too high. But yet lots of people are going 3” on a trail boss without even realizing it’s the same exact scenario.


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Posted

I have the 1.5” motofab lower strut spacer on my AT4 and the cv angles don’t look bad at all. They were pretty level with the GM factory lift (longer strut) which is probably why the 1.5” space did not change much. The UCA ball joints do not look bad either. I think ReadyLift offers a replacement upper control arm to correct the ball joint angles due to them offering a 2” leveling spacer instead. The CV angles however are not corrected. The 1.5” motofab Is netting essentially a cumulative 3.5” of lift but as opposed to running a 3” spacer on a not AT4/Trailboss the CV angles and balljoints are being stretched after the 2” factory lift while standing level at the factory lifted height. A non GM lifted truck with a 3” spacer is taking the angles stretch from the full 3” height modification. I hope this makes sense.

 

 

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Posted
I have the 1.5” motofab lower strut spacer on my AT4 and the cv angles don’t look bad at all. They were pretty level with the GM factory lift (longer strut) which is probably why the 1.5” space did not change much. The UCA ball joints do not look bad either. I think ReadyLift offers a replacement upper control arm to correct the ball joint angles due to them offering a 2” leveling spacer instead. The CV angles however are not corrected. The 1.5” motofab Is netting essentially a cumulative 3.5” of lift but as opposed to running a 3” spacer on a not AT4/Trailboss the CV angles and balljoints are being stretched after the 2” factory lift while standing level at the factory lifted height. A non GM lifted truck with a 3” spacer is taking the angles stretch from the full 3” height modification. I hope this makes sense.
 
 
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No, it doesn’t really make sense. Perhaps the geometry is slightly different making the angles a little bit better than previous models but the factory kit does not change the a-arms or drop the diff. It just adds longer cv shafts. So with that, you’re netting 3.5” of lift over a stock truck. I’d like to see what those angles look like.


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Posted

This had sparked my interest.  I have always put a RC level kit on all my silverados and badly want to put one on my TB in the Spring but I dont want to take chance of hurting factory equipment.  Like I said I want a leveling kit badly but not $500 badly as the cost of the readylift leveling kit.

Posted (edited)

The 2 inch lift the trailboss has only has a few key components,  longer struts and longer cv shafts up front are two of em. The knuckles and control arms are the same as all the other trucks. So they are already stretched 2 inches the way it sits.  To lift one taller it would need control arms for sure , that upper ball joint will hate life. The longer cvs are a plus when going taller. The rear lift is just blocks and u bolts, cheap and easy.

 

Same as a 2 inch level on a lt, custom etc will be as far as it goes b4 control arms are needed. Trail boss cv shafts would be a plus here.

Edited by Flatblack83
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