Jump to content

Wheel spacers?

SquireSCA
 Share

Recommended Posts

Swiftks Enthusiast

Swiftks

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Josef said:

@Swiftks do you have any more photos of your truck with the spacers installed. Something zoomed a little further back that shows the overall stance?  This is the exact set up I was thinking about doing. Thanks a ton in advance. 

Here's a pic zoomed out, best I can get it.... the perception can really change depending on the angle you're taking the picture from.  For reference I was standing right above the middle line in my driveway.

 

20200104_145616.thumb.jpg.df08a7d731864c4776f7765bd62c1e99.jpg

4 hours ago, reddeadg8 said:

Swiftks, how much tire is sticking out of the fender? looks like a couple inches.

Well it wouldn't be a couple inches, because the spacer is only 1.25".  Also, the wheels on these trucks are somewhat sunk in the fender well a bit I noticed.

 

This is about as scientific and accurate as I can get.

 

20200104_145749.thumb.jpg.f44bb16043d8c3bb2ad82b8dcc1949bb.jpg

 

The 1x4 is flush against the bottom and top of the tire, with paint bucket holding it in place.

 

20200104_145936.thumb.jpg.fdc252966b38dfae21fe682506ce82e8.jpg

 

Gap looks to be right at 3/4".

Also keep in mind these Duratracts are 11.0" wide I think (via Goodyear's website)... if you go wider in tire size, divide by two (b/c half the additional width goes on the other side/inside of tire), and add to this measurement.

Edited by Swiftks
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Julio13
Julio13

2 inch on my trail boss Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ryguy
Ryguy

Thanks. Anything is possible! You just have to be willing to try. I had to trim lots off the mud flaps and the inner fenders and it rubs minimally on full lock sometimes. I’m about 3/4 higher in the f

Swiftks
Swiftks

Yeah, I went down to local mechanic shop near my house, took 20 minutes, charged me $20.  Could have done it myself, but wasn't worth the time and effort for $20.   I'd also suggest putting

Posted Images

SquireSCA Enthusiast

SquireSCA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If I were to decide to go with new wheels instead of spending a couple hundred bucks on spacers...  What offset would I want, in order to move the wheels out 1.5 inches?

Not sure why, but when I read up on wheel specs it gets very confusing to me.  haha

ShaunMichael New Member

ShaunMichael

Posted
Posted

I'm also looking at spacers, but I'd need them to clear knuckles on rough country 6" lift. RC says with stock wheels the knuckles will hit. Will installing a spacer fix this? Does anyone know how much backspacing is on the OEM 18" wheels that come on the RST?

SquireSCA Enthusiast

SquireSCA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Talked to the guys at Flat Out Auto, a local shop most of the dealer use and I have used in the past...  They are installing a set of 1.25" spacers tomorrow, will post pics when they are done.

vonrokker Enthusiast

vonrokker

Posted
Posted

How much does the tire/wheel poke out from the fender with the 1 1/2 inch spacer installed?

Taz56 Enthusiast

Taz56

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, vonrokker said:

How much does the tire/wheel poke out from the fender with the 1 1/2 inch spacer installed?

About 1 1/2 inches LOL... It is close, not a lot at all, more for a look.

  • Haha 1
amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anything moved from center hub outside of stock will add wear on the wheel bearing. The weight and forces and being pushed out further rather than being equally distributed on the bearing. The further you go the more it will wear, it just depends on how much you want to go. A small 1/4 inch spacer will wear more than stock but much less than a 1.5 inch spacer and so forth. Same logic applies to levels, a 1 inch level will wear more than stock but not nearly as much as a 2.5 inch level. I found a great diagram a while ago that visually showed what happens to the wheel bearing as you move hub but I can't find it, if I do I will put it in here.

 

Spacers are a cheap way of getting the wheels pushed out and can cause issues. If you are using the truck for any towing, hauling or off roading I would avoid them unless it is just for stance on a street truck then it should be ok for a while. Wheel adapters are a different story but the same song on the wheel bearing.

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
Taz56 Enthusiast

Taz56

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, amxguy1970 said:

Same logic applies to levels, a 1 inch level will wear more than stock but not nearly as much as a 2.5 inch level. I found a great diagram a while ago that visually showed what happens to the wheel bearing as you move hub but I can't find it, if I do I will put it in here.

 

 

My first time running spacers, but I had a level kit on my last truck for 6 years, I never had an issue or concern. Maybe I got lucky? Or maybe it really is not that big a deal? It was a 1" level for what it's worth.

 

 

SquireSCA Enthusiast

SquireSCA

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, amxguy1970 said:

Anything moved from center hub outside of stock will add wear on the wheel bearing. The weight and forces and being pushed out further rather than being equally distributed on the bearing. The further you go the more it will wear, it just depends on how much you want to go. A small 1/4 inch spacer will wear more than stock but much less than a 1.5 inch spacer and so forth. Same logic applies to levels, a 1 inch level will wear more than stock but not nearly as much as a 2.5 inch level. I found a great diagram a while ago that visually showed what happens to the wheel bearing as you move hub but I can't find it, if I do I will put it in here.

 

Spacers are a cheap way of getting the wheels pushed out and can cause issues. If you are using the truck for any towing, hauling or off roading I would avoid them unless it is just for stance on a street truck then it should be ok for a while. Wheel adapters are a different story but the same song on the wheel bearing.

 

Tyler

The most weight I am likely to tow, is an ATV in the bed of the truck, and another ATV and maybe a dirtbike is a small trailer behind me...  Maybe 3,000lbs all in...

SquireSCA Enthusiast

SquireSCA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1.25" hub spacers Installed.  I did have to break out the Dremel and trim a bit if the inside of the mud flap and some of the wheel well insert, but nothing is rubbing at full lock now...

Before.JPG

After.JPG

IMG_0604.JPG

Swiftks Enthusiast

Swiftks

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

1.25" hub spacers Installed.  I did have to break out the Dremel and trim a bit if the inside of the mud flap and some of the wheel well insert, but nothing is rubbing at full lock now...

Before.JPG

After.JPG

IMG_0604.JPG

Turned out good.

Thejet07 Enthusiast

Thejet07

Posted
Posted

Can’t wait til i get mine on. Will be a while since I’m in a law suit with mine. Can’t wait to get in a new one, level it out and throw on the spacers. Seeing your cars make me jealous. Forgot to mention the muffler delete as well

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...