Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I am probably being a little OCD here but does anyone feel like the steering wheel is smaller in the 2020's vs a K2 last Gen model? Maybe I do not have the seat where I need it to be but in my 18 I could see all of the cluster w/o any issues now I feel like I am looking at the top of the steering wheel when looking at the oil gauge fuel gauge etc.  Just my 2 cents.  I have a 2020 LT Trail Boss.  And Yes I have tried adjusting the steering wheel all the way up and tried using the telescoping to go in and out  too. 

image.png

Edited by dorrellkc
  • Like 1
Posted

really? I was trying to source a smaller wheel out of a CHevy Colorado or Camaro,  still cant get any info on the steering splines or if the connectors will plug and play..

Posted

Just measured my 19 sierra and my 17 suburban (assuming it would be the same as a 17 truck). The new body steering wheel is 1/2 inch less. 

Posted

they really missed the boat on ergonomics in new gens.....one of the most difficult vehicles to find a comfortable setting in and yes, I would gather most who do find one cant see much of the cluster.....

 

the steering wheel should have independent operations between tilt and telesoping

 

I am 6ft tall and find it very tiresome actually.....still don't think I found a setting I love

Posted
29 minutes ago, Salsa De Piña said:

I've got a K2 and all I want to know is: Did they put the steering wheel on straight and in the middle with the T1's? 

Sure did. The first time I sat in one, it felt like it was offset the other way because I got used to the K2s we have at work. ?

  • Like 1
Posted

The smaller diameter doesn't bug me, but I feel like my K2 had a thicker rim. Don't miss the weird offset, but do miss the feel of that wheel.

Posted
6 hours ago, Salsa De Piña said:

I've got a K2 and all I want to know is: Did they put the steering wheel on straight and in the middle with the T1's? 

Yes that's been fixed better than it was.

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

The smaller diameter doesn't bug me, but I feel like my K2 had a thicker rim. Don't miss the weird offset, but do miss the feel of that wheel.

It’s definitely smaller girth wise. That’s the first thing I noticed when I test drove one. 

Edited by spizike9
Posted

I also thought that it was small after test driving last week. I drive a Subaru now, so it's not any better (lol), but it's definately a smaller wheel. I'm not complaining. 

Posted
On 3/12/2020 at 2:27 PM, smrr1 said:

Just measured my 19 sierra and my 17 suburban (assuming it would be the same as a 17 truck). The new body steering wheel is 1/2 inch less. 

And 1/2" translates to the top of the wheel being 1/4" lower ....that's enough to block the gauges? Before reading this post I didn't notice the difference.....after reading this post I didn't notice the difference......T1 heated steering wheel same size as my '18 Traverse heated steering wheel........maybe the heated ones have a larger cross section to accommodate the heated wiring.

 

The centralization of the wheel on the dash is likely the result that it is drive by wire and can be located anywhere becuase it is no longer connected to a steering column/shaft also doesn't have the same concerns for collapsing in a collision?

Posted
On 3/12/2020 at 6:42 PM, OnTheReel said:

The smaller diameter doesn't bug me, but I feel like my K2 had a thicker rim. Don't miss the weird offset, but do miss the feel of that wheel.

Yeah, I have the same impression - actually it was in changing out the fat "Custom" trim steering wheel in my truck, removed it and replaced with an "LT" leather wrapped steering wheel.  The LT steering wheel seems to have a narrower grip and a high front edge on it, slightly uncomfortable if you push your hands against the wheel.  

6.jpg

  • 6 months later...
Posted

DD, How easy was this to do? Did the wheel come complete, can you use the wiring for the non leather wheel. I know the radio buttons are non functioning. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...