Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just watched a couple of YouTubes on these. There are a couple different brands but one thing that stuck out was they said that if you remote start your vehicle it might disconnect.  I am very interested in this so I can add in the wireless charging and not have any plugs showing.

Posted

I screwed around with mine again today, still no luck. 

Posted

I got my Carplay2air a few weeks ago and has been flawless in my 2020. I didn’t update it to the newest version as it works perfect and don’t want to chance the update screwing it up. It connects every time but takes about 10-20 seconds

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm getting a replacement for mine, no lights on it.  Hopefully when I get the new one, it will finally work as expected.

Posted

Check the USB plug you are using, plug your phone directly into it and verify CarPlay works from that location.  Some USB plugs do not go directly to radio

  • Like 1
Posted

Interesting, tempted to buy this for my brand new 2020 that somehow lacks wireless CarPlay but has a charger haha 

Posted
On 8/6/2020 at 11:05 PM, mx_master said:

I got my Carplay2air a few weeks ago and has been flawless in my 2020. I didn’t update it to the newest version as it works perfect and don’t want to chance the update screwing it up. It connects every time but takes about 10-20 seconds

Any tips to getting it to work? They told me to make sure my phone and truck isn’t connected to any WiFi’s and a few other steps but nothing works, I can see it’s doing something but not what it’s supposed to do for sure.

Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, eppieguy said:

Any tips to getting it to work? They told me to make sure my phone and truck isn’t connected to any WiFi’s and a few other steps but nothing works, I can see it’s doing something but not what it’s supposed to do for sure.

Hmm the only thing I did was I NEVER updated. So right out of the box this is what I did I started my truck went into the Bluetooth settings to forget my phone. Shut the truck off then started again and plugged the dongle into the usb inside my center console. Then searched for Bluetooth on my phone and connected to the dongle and waited a little while for it to connect then made sure it worked. Then searched for updates to see if it was the latest version it isn’t so I NEVER updates as I wasn’t sure if it’s the new update messing other people’s dongle from working. 

Edited by mx_master
Posted

Got mine- usually works. I did update mine. My doesn’t always connect but when it does it works pretty good. 

Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, Tyler1199 said:

Got mine- usually works. I did update mine. My doesn’t always connect but when it does it works pretty good. 

Yeah mine is still pretty new so far out of 30-40 times I jumped in the truck to go for a drive it has connected every time. I don’t think I’ll do any updates unless it stops working. I have heard of people’s going to crap after a month or two so time will tell. 

Edited by mx_master
Posted
Yeah mine is still pretty new so far out of 30-40 times I jumped in the truck to go for a drive it has connected every time. I don’t think I’ll do any updates unless it stops working. I have heard of people’s going to crap after a month or two so time will tell. 

Mines new as well- mine will say connect a compatible phone. Sometimes it will register when I start driving. Mine usually takes 2-3 minutes after starting before it’s up and going. It’s a decent piece. Hoping that 2021 GM option for the wireless CarPlay will be able to be retrofitted into my 20’.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
10 minutes ago, Tyler1199 said:


Mines new as well- mine will say connect a compatible phone. Sometimes it will register when I start driving. Mine usually takes 2-3 minutes after starting before it’s up and going. It’s a decent piece. Hoping that 2021 GM option for the wireless CarPlay will be able to be retrofitted into my 20’.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah mine has done that a few times as well but will always connect. Yep I’m also waiting for the 2021 retro idea I looked that up first to see if the new 2021Tahoe would work but no one has done it yet so I’ll go with this dongle for now till we can retro fit the 2021 modules in. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...