Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

my center console wont open so have to go to dealership, I am pretty sure they are gonna have to replace it, idk if they can just get the lid open and not too sure they wont break it or something else just trying to get it open (I have tried and its jammed pretty good)....what are are my chances I can get a full center console (upcharge maybe?)....I think the whole console comes as a complete unit with seat as well, since I wont have one to sell after upgrade to recoup.....they should have checked vehicle over imo….I wanted bucket seats but their wasn't any available unless I went up to LTZ....anyone have any luck scoring an upgrade from defective part, I actually wouldn't mind paying a lil extra at all for full console as long as I get bit of deal for headache

 

I am waiting for dealer to call me to let me know my local dealer has a FOB and manual before I make appt for console

Edited by Dunn
Posted

There was a thread about this awhile back, I'm not 100% sure but I don't think there is a lid that opens on the LT trim trucks.  

Posted
3 minutes ago, 07HD said:

I don't think there is a lid that opens on the LT trim trucks.  

That would make a lot of sense why it won't open ????

Posted

Both my wife's 2020 HD 2500 and my 2020 1500 are LT's and they have opening lids on the consoles.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Booger T said:

Both my wife's 2020 HD 2500 and my 2020 1500 are LT's and they have opening lids on the consoles.

Can you post some pics of it open on the 2500, curious on what the latch mechanism looks like.

 

Maybe we can help the OP with what might have failed.

Posted (edited)

LT console opens, I specifically got this trim level because I am well aware of the custom trim that doesn't open....it has the latch, you can feel it wants too, but the pin is stuck or not engaging far enough to release it....I just traded in my 2019 RST with same console

 

on the custom and WT there isn't even a latch to press....mine has latch its just stuck and I can get it open if I break it but then it becomes my problem....currently its theirs to deal with

 

was just curious as to scoring the full floor console since they probably have to replace it anyway, I doubt they will even try and probably break it anyways, most likely they will just unbolt it from floor order the whole thing and send this one back....that's my guess anyway

Edited by Dunn
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

Work truck and custom trims don't have center console storage. 

 

#iworkforGM 

you thinks its possible I could just get upgrade to full floor console for bit of an upcharge?....idk what dept you work at over or is it not even worth bringing it up when I get there?

Edited by Dunn
  • 7 months later...
Posted (edited)

I'm having the same issue. 2020 Silverado 2500 HD LT Z71 package.  Anyone know if there's recall on the latch?  It seems the fold up seat and the cover operate on the same locking mechanism.  When the seat can be moved the cover stays locked  and vice versa.  On mine the seat won't lock into place and the cover won't release.  It's happened twice now.  The first time a few months back.  By chance, I was able to free it up the first time.   This time not so much.  

Edited by 1JB
Spelling
Posted

I had this problem when I picked up my truck new from the dealer. The salesperson said she didn't think it was supposed to open. I told her it has a latch. It has to open. I didn't want to break it by forcing it. So she called someone over from the service department and he fussed with it for several minutes and finally got it to open. It hasn't been a problem since.

Posted

yeah i got mine to open with a thin metal bar and some pressure to pull forward and up for the latch back far enough to release it.......same as above hasnt been a problem since.....now one of my power folding mirrors wont close

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

My local dealer was able to fix the problem. The console lid and jump seat latch are set up to operate dependently.  If the jump seat is in the open position for seating, do not open the console lid.  That's how the latch locks up.  If it does happen, you have to pull the rubber cup holders out to access and loosen the latch mounting screws.  The cup holders can be removed easy enough, they just carefully pull free from the console lid.  With the screws loose, the latch can be moved a tiny bit to release the lockup.  The Servuce Manager told me the latch is not normally adjustable so don't mess with it if you don't have to.  The service trick might save a trip to the dealer.

Edited by 1JB
Spelling
  • 3 years later...
Posted

2023 custom trail boss, center council won't open, when you pull on the handle to open it feels like it is almost going to open, I have never even lifted the council for anyone to sit there. Pretty disappointed, esp for how many miles are on it, and I felt like an ass an was very embarrassed when I went through the drive thru at McDonald's and couldnt get to my money to pay.By reading through the posts this seems to be an issue in alot of chevys old and new, surprised they haven't fixed the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...