Jump to content

Understanding my max tow rating, capability and if lift will hurt towing


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all,

 

The wife and I have started to look at buying a travel trailer for trips. We like to camp and hike and take trips mainly around New England but with 2 dogs and a new baby it's getting to a point where we want to have a bit more of a dedicated unit. Also looking at taking a few trips out west so we would like something we can use as a sort of home base. Anyway, long story short I've never towed a travel trailer, or anything beyond a little jetski trailer. I'm trying to understand my trucks realistic max towing capability but it's less than simple.

 

I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. So far I've found that my truck (2016 1500 CC short bed, 5.3 4x4, no max tow with 3.42 gears) has a max tow of 9100lbs (I think). I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. I've got no freaking clue what I can realistically tow, I checked on an rv sales website and it said my max weight was 7k lbs, which I suppose removing payload makes sense, but that is also "MAX". I assume I should be prepared to add some margin of padding, say 20%, which would bring me down to 5400lbs.

 

Now add into the mix that because I'm basically a 10 year old I've got a 6" lift and 35s that may hurt my ability to tow a bit? I'm sure it's gonna hurt my acceleration, prob my braking too, so perhaps I need a higher margin for safety?

 

 

Additionally, what happens if I get pulled over? I can't imagine a trooper is gonna sit here and do all this math. Do they just look at the sticker on the trailer and the sticker on the doorjam plus the trucks listed max tow?

 

Appreciate the help as I flounder around here.

 

Posted

Check this out.   It looks like your GCWR is 15k lbs and your max trailer is 9100lbs.  So unless you weigh your truck(lift+35s=more weight) with and without cargo you won't know how much trailer you can buy.  Truck+trailer can't exceed 15k lbs 

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.johnsoncars.com/2016brochures/traileringguide/16USTraileringGuide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiKqaCN-YjqAhWQGDQIHQX8BD0QFjADegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Y3KRSDgXw7k7-sQ4whAAM

Posted

The owners' manual is your friend.  Both Max. Trailer Weight and GCWR are listed in a table in the towing section under Driving and Operating.  9,100 lbs and 15,000 lbs, respectively.  Someone might tell you to look at the sticker in the door jamb for your specific truck, but my 2019 LD has no such sticker.

 

Now that lift of yours is a problem.  I'm not sure how you achieved your lift and if it compromised payload.  You'll need to look into that.  The 35s are an issue because you've effectively reduced your gearing to about 3.08.  The table lists max towing and GCWR with 3.08 gears at 6,100 and 12,000 lbs, so you'd be in that ballpark. 

 

Best of luck.

Posted
1 hour ago, Penguin VII said:

Hey all,

 

 

The wife and I have started to look at buying a travel trailer for trips. We like to camp and hike and take trips mainly around New England but with 2 dogs and a new baby it's getting to a point where we want to have a bit more of a dedicated unit. Also looking at taking a few trips out west so we would like something we can use as a sort of home base. Anyway, long story short I've never towed a travel trailer, or anything beyond a little jetski trailer. I'm trying to understand my trucks realistic max towing capability but it's less than simple.

 

I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. So far I've found that my truck (2016 1500 CC short bed, 5.3 4x4, no max tow with 3.42 gears) has a max tow of 9100lbs (I think). I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. I've got no freaking clue what I can realistically tow, I checked on an rv sales website and it said my max weight was 7k lbs, which I suppose removing payload makes sense, but that is also "MAX". I assume I should be prepared to add some margin of padding, say 20%, which would bring me down to 5400lbs.

 

Now add into the mix that because I'm basically a 10 year old I've got a 6" lift and 35s that may hurt my ability to tow a bit? I'm sure it's gonna hurt my acceleration, prob my braking too, so perhaps I need a higher margin for safety?

 

 

Additionally, what happens if I get pulled over? I can't imagine a trooper is gonna sit here and do all this math. Do they just look at the sticker on the trailer and the sticker on the doorjam plus the trucks listed max tow?

 

Appreciate the help as I flounder around here.

 

Call GM customer support, provided

them your VIN, and ask for the build sheet.  From there, you will be provided with your build sheet and that will give you all the details you need including a list of all your RPO codes.

 

Owners manual can help too.

Posted

 There are many RV forums that may help you in your trailer buying decision.  Your lift and wheels are the unknown variable but Salsa De Piña 's comments make sense.  Buying an RV for the first time is an exciting experience.  It is a potentially costly adventure so take your time and do your research.  Unless money is of no concern, renting a trailer a couple of times will save you a great deal of long term stress!  Life with a travel trailer is not always a Kodak moment...

Posted
2 hours ago, Penguin VII said:

Hey all,

 

The wife and I have started to look at buying a travel trailer for trips. We like to camp and hike and take trips mainly around New England but with 2 dogs and a new baby it's getting to a point where we want to have a bit more of a dedicated unit. Also looking at taking a few trips out west so we would like something we can use as a sort of home base. Anyway, long story short I've never towed a travel trailer, or anything beyond a little jetski trailer. I'm trying to understand my trucks realistic max towing capability but it's less than simple.

 

I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. So far I've found that my truck (2016 1500 CC short bed, 5.3 4x4, no max tow with 3.42 gears) has a max tow of 9100lbs (I think). I can't for the life of me find the GCWR of my truck. I've got no freaking clue what I can realistically tow, I checked on an rv sales website and it said my max weight was 7k lbs, which I suppose removing payload makes sense, but that is also "MAX". I assume I should be prepared to add some margin of padding, say 20%, which would bring me down to 5400lbs.

 

Now add into the mix that because I'm basically a 10 year old I've got a 6" lift and 35s that may hurt my ability to tow a bit? I'm sure it's gonna hurt my acceleration, prob my braking too, so perhaps I need a higher margin for safety?

 

 

Additionally, what happens if I get pulled over? I can't imagine a trooper is gonna sit here and do all this math. Do they just look at the sticker on the trailer and the sticker on the doorjam plus the trucks listed max tow?

 

Appreciate the help as I flounder around here.

 

 

 

I think what you really need to start as is a truck scale.  Go and have your truck weighed as is, with a full tank of gas and you in the seat.  Your curb weight it going to be a big factor with the lift and larger tires as to where you should proceed from here.  Base curb weight and payload on the tire load label is with a 100% stock truck.  Anything you add to the truck will only lower the payload, be it by 5lbs or 500lbs.  

Posted

Have you looked in your owners manual? Mine is a '17 & it lists all the models with engine & gear ratio with towing & GCWR. Mine starts on page 320

image.thumb.png.25af18d547feaebf7ba830a96ed6ca0f.png

image.thumb.png.84fbbcf193209436350d0a8d2ac4e9f7.png

image.thumb.png.faa4dc954a5f75e2f1bdb6052789f351.png

 

 

image.thumb.png.556b5de336f38448fa1e7163f48a3945.png

 

 

Posted

 I believe that larger tires and alterations to suspension change towing capabilities more significantly than just factoring in the added weight of these components.  

Posted
1 hour ago, Donstar said:

 I believe that larger tires and alterations to suspension change towing capabilities more significantly than just factoring in the added weight of these components.  

That's an understatement Donny.

I tow a 25ft Keystone Hornet Lite 25FL TT. Dry 4900 loaded to max 6200.

My stock 18 5.3 3.42 6spd Dbl cab tows it fine. Plenty of power ok mpg.

I'm also 10 years old so sometimes I tow it with my lifted truck.

My 18 Crew Standard bed 5.3 6spd 3.42 9" lift 37" tires has a hard time with this even empty.

She likes 5th gear, never shifts into 6th, with a lot 4th mixed in. 2700 - 3500 rpm is the most I'll let her go but it has enough ass at 3000 to get up a decent grade. The Borla S type catback echoing off the front of the trailer at 3000rpm is some sweet ass music too. She don't like to pass many gas stations though.

Never drove it with the lifted truck on a windy day but don't forget to factor that in. Also when a semi passes by you it creates turbulence so you have to be on your game and

be ready for that.

If I was you I'd look for a trailer in the 3500- 4000 lb dry 6000 GVWR.

Here's the info on mine..

15924143410345833187138625430370.jpg

IMG_20200617_122127.jpg

Posted
6 hours ago, m3n00b said:

Check this out.   It looks like your GCWR is 15k lbs and your max trailer is 9100lbs.  So unless you weigh your truck(lift+35s=more weight) with and without cargo you won't know how much trailer you can buy.  Truck+trailer can't exceed 15k lbs 

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.johnsoncars.com/2016brochures/traileringguide/16USTraileringGuide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiKqaCN-YjqAhWQGDQIHQX8BD0QFjADegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw2Y3KRSDgXw7k7-sQ4whAAM

I somehow missed that, however I saw the 2017 here and I don't see the gcwr anywhere on it. I figured that since there was no change between 2016 and 2017 it would be the same but I couldn't find it in that guide.

 

6 hours ago, Salsa De Piña said:

The owners' manual is your friend.  Both Max. Trailer Weight and GCWR are listed in a table in the towing section under Driving and Operating.  9,100 lbs and 15,000 lbs, respectively.  Someone might tell you to look at the sticker in the door jamb for your specific truck, but my 2019 LD has no such sticker.

 

Now that lift of yours is a problem.  I'm not sure how you achieved your lift and if it compromised payload.  You'll need to look into that.  The 35s are an issue because you've effectively reduced your gearing to about 3.08.  The table lists max towing and GCWR with 3.08 gears at 6,100 and 12,000 lbs, so you'd be in that ballpark. 

 

Best of luck.

I'm aware of the owners manual, but I somehow missed it when I was looking at it this morning. Perhaps it was too early and my coffee hadn't kicked in, but I'm seeing it in the digital version now.

 

I lifted with a suspension kit from BDS. I'm not seeing anything on their site about towing with their kit. My assumption here is just that I'm losing gearing because of the larger tires and a further reduction in MPG due to the hight of the truck. Assuming that I have the correct tow mount drop I'm unsure if there is anything else I should be aware of.

 

Makes sense to lower my towing due to the larger tires.

5 hours ago, Donstar said:

 There are many RV forums that may help you in your trailer buying decision.  Your lift and wheels are the unknown variable but Salsa De Piña 's comments make sense.  Buying an RV for the first time is an exciting experience.  It is a potentially costly adventure so take your time and do your research.  Unless money is of no concern, renting a trailer a couple of times will save you a great deal of long term stress!  Life with a travel trailer is not always a Kodak moment...

I've thought about renting, prob gonna give that a whirl first, but even still not sure what size I could (or should) look at renting. Hence this post.

 

I'm curious to what your experience or any feedback about the trailer life is. What makes it not a kodak moment?

5 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

I think what you really need to start as is a truck scale.  Go and have your truck weighed as is, with a full tank of gas and you in the seat.  Your curb weight it going to be a big factor with the lift and larger tires as to where you should proceed from here.  Base curb weight and payload on the tire load label is with a 100% stock truck.  Anything you add to the truck will only lower the payload, be it by 5lbs or 500lbs.  

Hadn't thought about this. Good call. I'll do that as a first step.

 

4 hours ago, rav3 said:

Have you looked in your owners manual? Mine is a '17 & it lists all the models with engine & gear ratio with towing & GCWR. Mine starts on page 320

Yeah, I hadn't seen it this morning but apparently I'm just thick. Thanks!

 

3 hours ago, Donstar said:

 I believe that larger tires and alterations to suspension change towing capabilities more significantly than just factoring in the added weight of these components.  

Sure, but I'm unsure of to what extent? Have I reduced my towing ability to 10%? 20? 50? I've got no clue here.

2 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

That's an understatement Donny.

I tow a 25ft Keystone Hornet Lite 25FL TT. Dry 4900 loaded to max 6200.

My stock 18 5.3 3.42 6spd Dbl cab tows it fine. Plenty of power ok mpg.

I'm also 10 years old so sometimes I tow it with my lifted truck.

My 18 Crew Standard bed 5.3 6spd 3.42 9" lift 37" tires has a hard time with this even empty.

She likes 5th gear, never shifts into 6th, with a lot 4th mixed in. 2700 - 3500 rpm is the most I'll let her go but it has enough ass at 3000 to get up a decent grade. The Borla S type catback echoing off the front of the trailer at 3000rpm is some sweet ass music too. She don't like to pass many gas stations though.

Never drove it with the lifted truck on a windy day but don't forget to factor that in. Also when a semi passes by you it creates turbulence so you have to be on your game and

be ready for that.

If I was you I'd look for a trailer in the 3500- 4000 lb dry 6000 GVWR.

Here's the info on mine..

Well that is disappointing to hear. Some of the trailers we were looking at were in the 7-8k size. I also don't want to get ahead of myself so perhaps its best that I start smaller anyway.

Posted
Well that is disappointing to hear. Some of the trailers we were looking at were in the 7-8k size. I also don't want to get ahead of myself so perhaps its best that I start smaller anyway.
Also if you've never towed anything bigger than jetskis, I would definitely consider something in the size I suggested. A 7500 lb 30 ft long travel Trailer with a 1/2 ton is NOT the place to learn how to tow.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Posted
14 minutes ago, dieselfan1 said:

Also if you've never towed anything bigger than jetskis, I would definitely consider something in the size I suggested. A 7500 lb 30 ft long travel Trailer with a 1/2 ton is NOT the place to learn how to tow.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

Yeah, thats a fair point. I'll reduce the scope a bit so I don't get in over my head, which was part of my concern. Worse comes to it I can always trade the truck if necessary but I think I'm not quite there, as much as I want a HD diesel it seems unnecessary at the moment.

Posted

Don't be deterred Sir.

You can still tow a nice setup. You have to think Lite or Ultra lite. Tons of them made to be pulled by a midsize SUV or minivan.

Is this big enough? 

No slide out though.

It's the right weight.

You should be able to get up to 25-30% off MSRP on a new one, depends on where you are and where you buy it  

https://www.jayco.com/products/travel-trailers/2020-jay-feather/18rbm/

 

What's your budget?

Posted

Step 1: Ignore any weight that is published in a brochure.  They are all wrong.

Step 2: Ignore the max tow rating and the GCWR.  Your truck will max out on payload long before you hit the GCWR or tow limit.

Step 3:  Go out to your truck and open the driver's door.  There are a couple of stickers on the B pillar.  One of them says "The weight of all occupants and cargo should never exceed: XXXX".  Tell us what that number is.  This is your payload capacity and represents your payload as the truck rolled off the assembly line.  Anything you have added (lift, bigger tires, people, tools, etc...) will reduce your payload capacity.

Step 4.  Remain calm and work from data.

 

Let's start with that and go from there.  Getting your truck weighed will get you bonus points.  GVWR - truck weight = payload capacity.

 

Tom

Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado 5.3 4x4 crew cab with the standard box on stock 265-65-18 tires and a custom tune.  I tow a 6000lbs 23ft travel trailer and feel like its the happy medium in the mountains that we tow in.   Id guess with your mods of lift and tire size you would do well with a trailer under 6000lbs.  

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...