Jump to content

rear suspension

Barry Hartling
 Share

Recommended Posts

Barry Hartling New Member

Barry Hartling

Posted
Posted

has anyone else had trouble with there truck going sideways on gravel roads in pot holes or washboard ????    is there a fix for this that is not too expensive ????   new here so Thank you for your Time ....

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Cpl_Punishment
Cpl_Punishment

The key question here is: why weren't you making Mrs. Econometrics drive the minivan? 

econometrics
econometrics

? We had $5500 of (warrantied, thank God!) work done on the suspension, so I needed to make sure the dealer got it right. ? 

JimCost2014
JimCost2014

That just sounds more like something that would be happening in the minivan.....

Posted Images

Paul_Aris Enthusiast

Paul_Aris

Posted
Posted

I never had but a friend has. Had to replace shocks. I would look at the Bilsteins.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Are you are running truck 'unloaded' and have factory tire sizes at the pressures on the door sticker? 

 

If so try running reduced tire pressure - its a free trial.

 

Washboard road has always been a issue in a pickup -- especially unloaded and at speed. 

Suspension adjustment -- by setting tire pressure match current loading -- can help.   

 

danthaman1980 Enthusiast

danthaman1980

Posted
Posted

I have a 2019 Sierra SLT 4x4, and I lived with the crappy ride for almost a year. I noticed the same thing, it would go sideways when going over bumps, lose rear traction easily, etc. I installed new Bilsteins on the rear about three weeks ago - best $200 I ever spent. The ride is much improved on all less than perfect surfaces.

 

As others have said, loading up the rear with several hundred pounds and/or reducing tire pressure can help (I tried both) but neither helps nearly as much as getting the junk factory rear shocks out and replacing with good ones.

 

  

econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

A LOT of us have this issue. It's very well-known. 

 

Adjust your tire pressures down some, it helps. The shocks will also get better as you put mileage on them. 

 

Best solution, though, is to replace them with either Bilstein (not out yet) or Eibachs. 

tonto340 Enthusiast

tonto340

Posted
Posted

I just put Bilstein 5100s on the rear of mine today. I haven't driven it yet.

There is now a 5100 for the front but no one has it yet. Part # for the front will be Part Number: 24-293297. The rear is Part Number: 24-293471.

ThatredneckguyJamie Enthusiast

ThatredneckguyJamie

Posted
Posted

I've driven a truck on washboard dirt roads since before I was legally old enough to do so and every one of them to some extent will do that, and the longer the wheelbase the move pronounced the effect. Trucks are made to haul stuff and when the bed has nothing in it they will tend to get a little "squirrelly", they certainly make shocks that will help but as mentioned a cheap fix it to put something in the bed. Doesnt have to be much...back in my wilder days even a igloo full of ice and beer makes a big difference lol. 

chadman Enthusiast

chadman

Posted
Posted
On 7/7/2020 at 12:50 PM, Barry Hartling said:

has anyone else had trouble with there truck going sideways on gravel roads in pot holes or washboard ????    is there a fix for this that is not too expensive ????   new here so Thank you for your Time ....

I had the same problem on my F150. Bilstein 4600’s fixed it. Can’t wait until they have the 4600’s for the new Sierra. Hate that feeling.

econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted
On 7/15/2020 at 7:48 AM, Barry Hartling said:

Thanks Guys for all the help.. going to see if the dealer will help  Thanks again .....

They won't be of any help. You need new shocks to get the more planted ride you're wanting (and should come OEM off the lot!) 

 

The other day I was following Mrs. Econometrics home in her minivan, she was driving my RST. I was watching the rear suspension on my RST... wow... it was just bouncing up and down like a loose noodle. Someone with a TB was driving in front of us, and I honestly didn't see the same play in the rear end. Then a GMT900 1500 CC drive along side my RST for about a mile... same thing. Rear axle just did not look as bouncy. Made me realize how badly I need to get rid of these Rancho twin-tubes. 

Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, econometrics said:

They won't be of any help. You need new shocks to get the more planted ride you're wanting (and should come OEM off the lot!) 

 

The other day I was following Mrs. Econometrics home in her minivan, she was driving my RST. I was watching the rear suspension on my RST... wow... it was just bouncing up and down like a loose noodle. Someone with a TB was driving in front of us, and I honestly didn't see the same play in the rear end. Then a GMT900 1500 CC drive along side my RST for about a mile... same thing. Rear axle just did not look as bouncy. Made me realize how badly I need to get rid of these Rancho twin-tubes. 

The key question here is: why weren't you making Mrs. Econometrics drive the minivan? 

  • Haha 1
econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

The key question here is: why weren't you making Mrs. Econometrics drive the minivan? 

? We had $5500 of (warrantied, thank God!) work done on the suspension, so I needed to make sure the dealer got it right. ? 

  • Like 1
Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
48 minutes ago, econometrics said:

? We had $5500 of (warrantied, thank God!) work done on the suspension, so I needed to make sure the dealer got it right. ? 

Which make? 

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, econometrics said:

it was just bouncing up and down like a loose noodle

That just sounds more like something that would be happening in the minivan.....

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...