Preventative maintenance?

[ajs67donzi]

I had an alignment done by my local shop, and they seemed professional. With 115,000 miles on my '15 Sierra Denali, I asked for a quote on 8 plugs and a wire set ($480!), and they further recommended an "upper engine soak and clean rings and pistons for carbon build-up" ($107).

 

I'll probably do the plugs and wires, but am wondering if there is an "upper engine cleaner" alternative that I can run through the engine myself. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Edited August 8, 2020 by ajs67donzi

[btj_z71]

1 hour ago, ajs67donzi said:

I had an alignment done by my local shop, and they seemed professional. With 115,000 miles on my '15 Sierra Denali, I asked for a quote on 8 plugs and a wire set ($48), and they further recommended an "upper engine soak and clean rings and pistons for carbon build-up" ($107).

 

I'll probably do the plugs and wires, but am wondering if there is an "upper engine cleaner" alternative that I can run through the engine myself.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Amsoil upper engine lubricant.  Drop it in the fuel tank.  Safe to use at every fill up.  They have a fuel system treatment too that you can use every 4k miles.

 

You can use the engine cleaner amd engline flush too.  Ive used both to great results.  

[JimCost2014]

9 hours ago, ajs67donzi said:

upper engine soak and clean rings and pistons for carbon build-up" ($107).

Did you ask what is used and how it is done?

[Black02Silverado]

AMSOIL's Power Foam for cleaning the upper cylinders.  

 

Power Foam is safe for fuel injectors, catalytic converters and emissions-control devices. It will not damage seals, gaskets, rubber or plastic materials commonly used in gasoline engines.

Performance Features

• Cleans deposits from ethanol and degraded fuel
• Removes gum and varnish
• Maximizes horsepower
• Restores startability
• Helps improve fuel economy
• Reduces pollution

 

Applications

• UTVs/ATVs
• Boats
• Motorcycles
• Lawn equipment
• Tractors
• Automobiles

 

Directions

1. Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.
2. Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.
3. Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly.
4. While engine is running, spray foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process.
5. Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.
6. Replace air cleaner.
7. Restart engine. Repeat application of Power Foam as needed.

 

In extreme cases, disassemble carburetor and soak parts.

Recommendations
Avoid contact with hoses and exterior plastic components. To prevent the dissolving of paint, do not overspray. Clean any overspray immediately to prevent unintentional component damage. AMSOIL Power Foam is not recommended for use in diesel engines or as a general-purpose degreaser.

AMSOIL PRODUCT AVAILABILITY
AMSOIL Power Foam is available in 18-ounce spray cans.

AMSOIL PRODUCT WARRANTY
AMSOIL products are backed by a Limited Liability Warranty. For complete information visit www.amsoil.com/warranty/.

HEALTH & SAFETY
This product is not expected to cause health concerns when used for the intended applications and according to the recommendations in the Safety Data Sheet (SDS). An SDS is available online at www.amsoil.com or upon request at (715) 392-7101. Keep Out of Reach of Children. Recycle used oil and bottle.

[Doublebase]

I mean, there's probably a million "upper engine/carbon cleaners" available on the market right now...CRC, BG, Seafoam, Amsoil. You can walk into any parts store and get something, so no, I wouldn't pay for an upper engine clean/ring soak. especially a ring soak - a proper soak is an overnight thing - I can guarantee that isn't part of the equation from a repair shop.

 

And $480 does seem a little steep for plugs and wires....figure $150-$200 for plugs and wires and 1-2 hours labor at 120 an hour. Alright, I guess some places could hit you for $440, tops, so maybe it's not that high, but I'd shop around. $350 sounds more reaasonable.    

[KARNUT]

I have one dealer recommending engine cleaning and flush every 30K miles. In the manual it says if using tier gas you don’t need it. I’m at 10 years and 100K miles on that vehicle no flush. My first truck that had 100K miles plugs I ask my auto shop owning friend what he thought. He said wait for the check engine light. I sold that truck at 180K same plugs. If you’re planning on keeping the vehicle awhile and drive lots of short trips. Then changing the plugs sooner rather than later is probably a good idea. He says it been awhile since he seen a bad plug.

 

 

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[sharkeysierra]

I usually throw some seafoam in the tank on fill up to take of the upper cleaning. 
 

I also one some “motor flush” at oil changes as well. 

[Colossus]

Amsoil, or BG products.  with 100,000 miles on it, I would suggest having the de-carbon thing done as they have a machine that can get it done better than just pouring in a bottle of carbon cleaner or Sea Foam.  (I like seafoam but it does not do as good of a job on GDI stuff as it does on the non gdi)  Especially on GDI engines.  THEN after the cleaning has been done use a good fuel and oil additive as directed, be it from Amsoil, or BG. 

 

We've got a decent Amsoil dealer on here as he chimed in above, (going to be getting some Amsoil gear oil/lube soon for the differentials and tranny)  but if you are interested in looking at BG's products, here ya go

 

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/

 

I've used the BG EPR, MOA, 44K, and other stuff with great results.  Also make sure you are filling up with top tier fuels as they have the best detergents in their fuels to AID in keeping fuel system cleaner (but can't do it alone) 

https://www.toptiergas.com/

 

Today's engines are tighter than ever tolerances which is why additives are essential.  Back in the day we could get away with just filling the thing up, running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every year or so, and that was it.  Not anymore. 

 

 

[ajs67donzi]

All great replies, thanks for the education and information.

 

I priced the plugs and wires at about $130, and I've got "a guy" that will likely give me a reasonable labor quote.

 

The carbon flush is a different story. I'll ask what method the shop uses, and probably spring for it. Then I'll start using an additive going forward.

 

Thanks again!

[Grumpy Bear]

I've had one experience with upper cylinder cleaning procedures on a GDI GM 2.4. GM product that has a 4 hour soak. Wicked stuff really. They used it to clean the valves and it did a nice job on that. Didn't do much for the rings however. BG EPR on the other hand broke those gummed up rings free. It's used in the oil at a change. Directions on the can. Good stuff. 

 

Only motor I've ever owned in 50 years of driving that needed such a thing. 

 

I use Techron or Red Line in the tank every 5 K and use decent gas. Change plugs and wired on 100 K intervals. So far so good. 

[mookdoc6]

Good to see Ol Grumps has come to see the light of BG products!  Been recommending ya'all use those for years especially on GDI'S.  Their new double size can for top end cleaning is the BEST there is and that is what you want.  Many shops not familiar with it but it's taking the place of 3 part cleaner.  Remember GDI'S brought me to BG not the other way around....live and learn.

[Grumpy Bear]

13 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Good to see Ol Grumps has come to see the light of BG products! 

Man, how did I get this rep for being unmovable? 

 

I like a good product just as much as the next fella. A good deal on it is even better. That said I don't use it as a prophylactic. It's an aggressive cleaner I use when needed. Even if you wait to long it works. EPR that is. I have no opinion on their other products but I'm sure I'll get the introduction when needed.  

[Z45]

Any optional service the dealer recommends, take with a grain of salt.  The object of oem dealer is to see the customer often and increase profits. 

People think of the service advisor as a mechanic but basically they are salesmen. Many are even paid on commission. That means that the more work they convince you that your truck needs; the more money that it puts in their pockets.

Ask them how often they do it to their rides and then say “No Thanks”.

[KARNUT]

Any optional service the dealer recommends, take with a grain of salt.  The object of oem dealer is to see the customer often and increase profits. 
People think of the service advisor as a mechanic but basically they are salesmen. Many are even paid on commission. That means that the more work they convince you that your truck needs; the more money that it puts in their pockets.

Ask them how often they do it to their rides and then say “No Thanks”.

I bought 4 Hyundai’s and several GMCs through my local dealer. My Hyundai’s had incredible warranty’s. While my trucks followed the normal maintenance per the dealer. That same dealer recommended the severe service for the Hyundai’s. The difference was 3400 miles instead of 7500 with semi synthetic. It gets expensive when you add all the other services that go along with. I still have two, good cars. But when it came time to purchase a trip car, where the miles add up quick. The frequency of maintenance sent me elsewhere. The questions I ask now when purchasing involves maintenance and the cost of.


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[diyer2]

Maintenance is part of everything  I own. So the cost is a given to me.

Paint house, yard work, vehicles, mowers, yard tools, ETC.

Personal hygiene. 

All cost money.

If you want it to last and look good, maintain it. 

 

;)