Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone else having issues with the paint peeling off your truck?  My 2014 has started to peel and when I contacted GMC they said it was my problem and refused to help fix it.  The dealership wants $1700 to paint the entire door.  I haven't even owned the truck four years.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

GMC1.jpg

GMC3.jpg

GMC2.jpg

GMC.jpg

Edited by Geotrain1
remove one picture
Posted

I don't have a flaking problem on my 2018 Silverado, but the paint does chip very easily.
My only advice is to keep the truck out of the sun as much as possible. Also, wax the paint periodically to keep it from drying out and cracking. That should preserve the rest of the paint.
I'm afraid your only option is to repaint the spot, even if you have to pay for it.

I'm sorry.

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted

That sucks. Shop around local body shops. Check their reviews. They shouldn’t have to paint the entire door. Just blend in the area that they paint. 
 

if you have the tricoat paint maybe it can’t be blended and that’s why they have to repaint entire door? Seems like dealer just being a dealer and asking the max price. 

Posted

Unfortunately, that door can't be spotted, and is only a sign of things to come. It must be completely stripped of all paint, all trim removed, then blended into adjacent panels, removing all trim on those panels, also. The dealership quoted you a price to do just that, but that will only fix the current problem. The rest of the truck will eventually do the same, no matter what you do. This is not a new or unusual problem, nor unique to GM products.

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted

Why is it the white trucks that always have the most paint problems? Definitely find a different body shop, 1700 is high. You do have a pearl paint (3 stage) so it's not super cheap.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm just disappointed in GM, not even willing to admit they have a problem with the paint or help me out in any way.  I come from a Chevy/GMC family and we have never had problems like this before.  This is just ridiculous.

Posted

They, along with many other manufacturers, have been having problems for over 30 years since they went to base coat/clear coat. I have personally painted well over 1000 "peelers". I was working at a Chevrolet dealership from the mid '80's through the mid '90's. Me and 1 other painter each had 2 peelers a week scheduled up to a year in advance. They were every model from Berettas and Corsicas to trucks,vans, and Suburbans. The first ones were silvers and blues 2-3 years old. The white ones normally took 5-6 years to start peeling. Gm cut the warranty from 6 years to 5 years, then to 4 years,  cutting out many of the vehicles they were paying to repaint. I, personally, have never seen a red or maroon vehicle peel like the truck pictured above. I can't explain exactly why, only what I have observed. The clear may come apart, but the base doesn't peel, like most other colors. All I can say is the truck will eventually peel everywhere, and the cost to fix it right will be very high. Anything other than completely stripping the whole vehicle top to bottom, end to end is only a temporary patch. Now is the time to decide whether the truck is worth the investment it will take to repair it correctly, or buy a red one?

Posted

Automotive Touchup . Com.........Rattle Can......About $20 for color....I think another $10 for Clear.   Blend it in with 400 and shoot it.   If any other spots develop, you will have the paint ready to go. Thank your lucky stars that you dont have the White Diamond Tricoat like me.  .......?

Posted

Obviously, it is tri-coat. That paint is not going to feather out. If you hit it with air or a pressure washer, that spot would grow considerably. Painting over peeling paint is similar to wrapping a rag around a leaking radiator hose and expecting it to last.

Posted

Didnt catch that it was a special paint.   Hopefully its just the door thats going to peel.  Good luck on your venture......

Posted

I had the same problem on my '14 Silverado. Luckily mine is just the Summit white. I got quotes from $1000- $1500. They wanted to strip the door and repaint it then blend into the fender and rear door. 

 

Finally went to a small shop that only accepts cash ( they don't deal with insurance companies). Paid $400 to get the door stripped and repainted, no blending. It looks perfect, so I would shop around. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I’m also having the same issue in the same spot, having the dealer look at it today, if they say no then there should be a class action lawsuit against the company for defective paint. Just saying.

9A8C1290-00AB-4E4B-AFEE-82D1266A8143.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I dont think that its the paint.  I think that its in the prep.  Why would multiple  doors have a problem in the same spot.??  Oil ?  Some other substance ?   Somehow,  something must have dripped on that primer before the white was shot.  Was it not wiped off properly?   My tricoat has none of this anywhere.  Now the painted front bumper is a whole ' nother story.  Rock chips everywhere.  All I can do at this point is to have a wrap done on it.  Where was the truck built?  Mine was built in Mexico.  Its 5 years old.  Somewhere,  someone at GM knows why that paint did not stick.

Posted

I have an educated guess why there is a problem in the same spot. When that door is sprayed, the "gun" is going straight down the side, not turning to "wet" that area, and that area is not getting enough clear. 2.0 mils of clear is the minimum to give the base (color) UV protection. Without enough clear, the base will delaminate and let loose of the factory primer. There is no prep between factory primer and base. If you could find someone with a paint thickness gauge, I would bet that area (and probably others) is 1.6 mils of clear or less. The main reason for factory paint problems is a lack of material, to save a buck. They put just enough on to get it out of warranty, and not just GM.

Posted
On 9/1/2020 at 9:57 AM, jweb said:

Finally went to a small shop that only accepts cash ( they don't deal with insurance companies). Paid $400 to get the door stripped and repainted, no blending. It looks perfect, so I would shop around. 

I agree!  I shopped around when I needed a saddle bag lid refinished  for my Harley.  I am fussy and cheap!   With a little networking, I was able to find a small out of the way shop (low overhead) that beat every other quote by at least 60%.  I am not suggesting a business that is avoiding tax obligations but there are skilled automotive painters who do not employ a large staff or lease an expensive main road paint shop.  BTW  The painter I found was a name given to me by an estimator/owner at a large collision repair facility who had empathy for my problem.  Painters know painters!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,636 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
    • Take it back. That's about all you can do.  Mark 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...