Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
What stinks is there is no drain plug on the front differential on the new 2019's.  It is also harder to get to the fill plug. The harness for the power steering is in the way.

That’s insane. Why would they not put a drain plug?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

That’s insane. Why would they not put a drain plug?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh boy, so much more than we all know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Here's the front diff job, not much different (30000kms / 18500 miles)
 
1. locate the front diff plugs, loosen the top fill plug first, then the bottom drain plug second
2. drain fluid
3. refill with your favorite gear oil (i used Amsoil 75w90, same as the rear diff) 
4. tighten plugs back to spec
 
Some observations:
 
the old fluid was a dark green as opposed to the dark black from the rear diff. I only use the front diff occasionally in the winter with AUTO mode, and very rarely in 4 HI, so that likely explains the colour difference, it's not used as much. I tow a 3000lb and a 5000lb trailer boat about 2000 miles a year. 
 
I drained approximately 1200 ml out, and refilled with 1600 ml back in. 
185820490_20200520_131944_1400395_resized.thumb.jpg.5c85831f4462bec4c4c8df70b62965f9.jpg
-77115933_20200520_132741_2230874_resized.thumb.jpg.c2573800e485d67179a31fd2e635c2e2.jpg
-74776519_20200520_132558_1523547_resized.thumb.jpg.177f900c262a173afe813309a152829e.jpg
1251622480_20200520_133329_1989874_resized.thumb.jpg.f29f90409ca151914f894cb3e91868ad.jpg
892572280_20200520_133336_2453043_resized.thumb.jpg.5c3d574b7fac630bf8799144b89c24c3.jpg
1582904427_20200520_133845_1621683_resized.thumb.jpg.47b5d43c4d10939c9b80d7a57da5284f.jpg

Gotta love da Amsoil!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
7 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Highly recommended replacing the crappy rear Diff cover with a new G2 as it makes replacing the fluid a breeze!
939fd4ac79d061280c6fe76eafab7bcb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same one I got SON!  I just squeezed in 4qts of EZ-Pack in mine couple weeks ago!

  • Like 3
Posted
Same one I got SON!  I just squeezed in 4qts of EZ-Pack in mine couple weeks ago!

You make me feel so young lol. This is my second one, I stripped the top bolt on the first one, this one is replacement, I’ve got one more for just in case [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Here's the front diff job, not much different (30000kms / 18500 miles)
 
1. locate the front diff plugs, loosen the top fill plug first, then the bottom drain plug second
2. drain fluid
3. refill with your favorite gear oil (i used Amsoil 75w90, same as the rear diff) 
4. tighten plugs back to spec
 
Some observations:
 
the old fluid was a dark green as opposed to the dark black from the rear diff. I only use the front diff occasionally in the winter with AUTO mode, and very rarely in 4 HI, so that likely explains the colour difference, it's not used as much. I tow a 3000lb and a 5000lb trailer boat about 2000 miles a year. 
 
I drained approximately 1200 ml out, and refilled with 1600 ml back in. 
185820490_20200520_131944_1400395_resized.thumb.jpg.5c85831f4462bec4c4c8df70b62965f9.jpg
-77115933_20200520_132741_2230874_resized.thumb.jpg.c2573800e485d67179a31fd2e635c2e2.jpg
-74776519_20200520_132558_1523547_resized.thumb.jpg.177f900c262a173afe813309a152829e.jpg
1251622480_20200520_133329_1989874_resized.thumb.jpg.f29f90409ca151914f894cb3e91868ad.jpg
892572280_20200520_133336_2453043_resized.thumb.jpg.5c3d574b7fac630bf8799144b89c24c3.jpg
1582904427_20200520_133845_1621683_resized.thumb.jpg.47b5d43c4d10939c9b80d7a57da5284f.jpg
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

Posted
On 10/4/2020 at 7:35 AM, TXGREEK said:

Highly recommended replacing the crappy rear Diff cover with a new G2 as it makes replacing the fluid a breeze!
939fd4ac79d061280c6fe76eafab7bcb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have been thinking of doing the same thing but I got sucked down a rabbit hole with my research.  Did you see Gale Banks research on differential covers?

 

 

Posted
I have been thinking of doing the same thing but I got sucked down a rabbit hole with my research.  Did you see Gale Banks research on differential covers?    

 

 

It’s all BS, Banks has made a brand for himself years ago and now entering the already over saturated Rear Diff industry. I love my G2 Diff Cover, works fantastic and very easy to work with. I’m not a supporter of manufacturers that dog on others when his is no different than the ones that have been out for a VERY long time. G2 has an outstanding customer service department and bring that I OffRoad often, the G2 cover is extremely strong custom manufactured with proper honing etc and looks great. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy one. I bought three, messed up the first one by over tightening the upper fill bolt and forgetting to add washer so now I’ve got one left lol. 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

What's BS about his video's for his testing of those covers?

1) he found some had the fill port at a different level than OEM, and some by quite a bit.  Lower level may not lube properly, higher level puts more drag on the diff, and also puts more heat into the fluid

2) he found that the interior shape around the ring gear affects how the fluid flows around it.  If it's more squared off instead of rounded, the fluid goes up instead of around, then falls down into the oil coming from below, causing more aeration.

 

Neither of these things are bs,  They are basic design failures by those cover manufacturers.

 

From looking at G2 covers, your cover definitely has a problem with 2, and you can't tell if they got 1 right.  However, for 99% of buyers, like you, the diff isn't worked anywhere near where the cover makes a difference, other than hitting it with a rock.  It's just bling.

  • Like 1
Posted
What's BS about his video's for his testing of those covers?

1) he found some had the fill port at a different level than OEM, and some by quite a bit.  Lower level may not lube properly, higher level puts more drag on the diff, and also puts more heat into the fluid

2) he found that the interior shape around the ring gear affects how the fluid flows around it.  If it's more squared off instead of rounded, the fluid goes up instead of around, then falls down into the oil coming from below, causing more aeration.

 

Neither of these things are bs,  They are basic design failures by those cover manufacturers.

 

From looking at G2 covers, your cover definitely has a problem with 2, and you can't tell if they got 1 right.  However, for 99% of buyers, like you, the diff isn't worked anywhere near where the cover makes a difference, other than hitting it with a rock.  It's just bling.

Now that you’ve once again targeted one of my comments. It’s BS, he’s made a big issue with a non existing issue, he’s marketing his products on assumptions that others haven’t done their homework on, these have all worked for people like me that follow what the experts use, never questioning or focusing on cost.

 

Now, how about you show proof that G2 has ever failed? A company highly respected by professionals world wide, better yet, show where any rear end failed due to running after market rear Diff covers. Never going to happen so why don’t you go back into the hole you “once again” crawled out of.

 

Good bye [emoji112] [emoji112]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

YYC-Sierra, thank you for the write up. I was going to take my truck to the stealership but after seeing this, I picked up AC Delco 75/90, 75/85 and AC Delco full synthetic trans fluid and did the rear diff and transfer case myself tonight. Doing the front diff tomorrow.

 

This was the first service at 52K and to be honest, the transfer case fluid was still red, the rear gear lube was dark but not a whole lot of metal on the magnets. I feel better now that it's done. I would have done the front diff tonight but I have a skidplate that needs to be removed, didn't feel like doing it in the dark.

 

  • Like 2
Posted
YYC-Sierra, thank you for the write up. I was going to take my truck to the stealership but after seeing this, I picked up AC Delco 75/90, 75/85 and AC Delco full synthetic trans fluid and did the rear diff and transfer case myself tonight. Doing the front diff tomorrow.
 
This was the first service at 52K and to be honest, the transfer case fluid was still red, the rear gear lube was dark but not a whole lot of metal on the magnets. I feel better now that it's done. I would have done the front diff tonight but I have a skidplate that needs to be removed, didn't feel like doing it in the dark.
 

I’m going to be doing the same thing over the winter. I see you went with the full synthetic ATF. What made you decide synthetic over the standard?

I’m a little puzzled that the full synthetic is much cheaper on Amazon.
Posted
3 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

Now that you’ve once again targeted one of my comments. It’s BS, he’s made a big issue with a non existing issue, he’s marketing his products on assumptions that others haven’t done their homework on, these have all worked for people like me that follow what the experts use, never questioning or focusing on cost.

 

Now, how about you show proof that G2 has ever failed? A company highly respected by professionals world wide, better yet, show where any rear end failed due to running after market rear Diff covers. Never going to happen so why don’t you go back into the hole you “once again” crawled out of.

 

Good bye emoji112.png emoji112.png

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, it is not a non-issue.

 

Sure, for people like you who buy it for it's appearance, it appears to work fine, as you basically have to want to make a cover wrong in order to get the diff to fail because of it.  That it aerates the oil more than the oem cover, or that it causes the oil to be a little hotter than with the oem cover just slightly decrease the overall lifespan of both the oil and the bearings/gears in the diff, and if/when the diff happens to fail, a mechanic would not attribute the cause to the cover because it would just look like the oil failed.

 

But, under more demanding conditions, such as what Banks demonstrated in his videos, it can make a difference.

 

I'm sorry you are that emotionally invested with a couple hundred dollar cover that you can't admit, in this case:

-more aeration in gear oil is worse than less aeration, and your G2 cover does aerate the oil more than the oem cover

-the wrong oil level in the diff is worse than the right oil level in the diff (I don't recall if the G2 cover has the right level or not)

Posted

I’m going to be doing the same thing over the winter. I see you went with the full synthetic ATF. What made you decide synthetic over the standard?

I’m a little puzzled that the full synthetic is much cheaper on Amazon.

Full synthetic isn’t 100% Synthetic unless it says it’s 100% synthetic. Full synthetic is a mixture of lower end oils mixed with 100% synthetic additives.

I’d look at the Amsoil squeeze packs 75w90 100% synthetic, far superior protection and longer life.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
18 hours ago, Granite7 said:


I’m going to be doing the same thing over the winter. I see you went with the full synthetic ATF. What made you decide synthetic over the standard?

I’m a little puzzled that the full synthetic is much cheaper on Amazon.

I went with AC Delco Dexron VI full synthetic at the recommendation of a friend who builds racing transmission and race cars. He is a GM guy, and engineer by trade. He has a Silverado 3500 that pulls his car hauler and gigantic camper. For what I do (daily driver, hauling a light load (5x8 landscape trailer hauling tree stands, ATV hunting gear, tree trimmings). 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 3.19 @ Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx
    • We have now!  2027 GMC Sierra  Early look, but I'm a GMC guy and so far I think I like the looks of the Chevy better.
    • HD at the moment, are kinda their own deal.  How LTZ sells on those vs on 1500, there is a difference.   They are merging most of the mid trims on 1500.  LT, RST and LTZ are replaced by one trim, Silverado.  LT and RST are a BIG portion of sales.    Bad naming choice aside, the new Silverado trim will offer the spread of options that those three trims offered.  So expect to see things like the tech package for example, and memory seats.  And LT Trail Boss will now just be "Trail Boss" (formerly LT Trail Boss) but will offer content spread like the new Silverado trim will.  The press photos showed the Trail Boss (formerly LT Trail Boss) has access to Super Cruise now, which on the current truck was High Country only.       Here is the Trail Boss interior.  Memory seats and Super Cruise are present.  All things the LT Trail Boss it replaces, and the RST it was based on didn't get on the current gen.  You had to go to LTZ or ZR2 for memory seats, and High Country for Super Cruise.      
    • I installed a Hellwig rear sway bar on my 21 Sierra SLT, it made a huge difference on how the truck handles, no body roll, the trucks much more planted now. Not sure of the suspension differences between the 21 and 26,  if its body roll your having a sway bar will solve it. 
    • So a follow up and my fix. I found in online searches the live data to look at on a scan tool to verify the fuel tank pressure sensor was working.  It showed an spec number towards the lower end of the rang, but in spec.  Then while it was running opened the gas cap and the pressure should change.  It didn't change even a tiny bit.  The data for the purge valve said it was open...never changed. So then I measured the voltages on the plug for the fuel pressure sensor and they matched what it should be.  So local car quest parts had the sensor in stock...it was a bit of a pain to remove and an even bigger one to get it to actually go back in.  It helped to unbolt the driveshaft and bungie cord away from the gas tank to give a bit more room to work. So fuel tank pressure sensor in I cleared the code, and started it up.  I went to the scan tool's live data and... Eureka! The pressure number was different and fluctuated a bit.  So took it on a short drive and pressure number varied saw the purge valve go from closed to open and back to closed.  Drove it to and from work for roughly a week plugged in the scan tool no codes.  I took it in to get tested and passed.  In my state's infinite wisdom (oops meant greed), since I pushed the test with the maximum extensions I have to take it back in by Feb '27 to 'get it back up to date', then my next test won't be until Feb '29. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...