Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Folks-

 

I do lighting retrofits, repairs, and installations and re-lamping on the side, and have for 20+ years.  So I've been around when it comes to LED and CFL emergence and popularity and such.  I do love LED lighting and the cost savings, however- I do NOT like some of the side effects that it brings with it. 
Namely- using the wrong colors such as the "Daylight" spectrum which can be considered 5000k (kelvin) and above, as well as the RF interference that CFL and LED lighting emits.  It messes with wifi, radio, and other signals, and as a ham radio operator, RF interference is a big thing for me and many others. 

That being said, LED lighting has it's place, if you do it wisely and smartly.  


- Avoid the daylight colors in your home and especially in the evening hours- it messes with your body's ability to produce melatonin. 

- Avoid the daylight colors in areas you are going to be in for long periods of time such as your garage if you are going to be working on a project out there. 

 

Consider the following:
The warm white colors are best for inside the house especially for Kitchen, Bedroom, and Bath and Study areas and for outside the home such as your porch and driveway lights-  2700K-3000K are ideal for a warm calm environment and they make the outside of your house look more appealing and not so ugly with the bluish light that the daylight spectrum produces.  It's sad to see such nice houses messed up with such terrible lighting. 

 

For the workshop- Consider 3500K-4100K.  4000/4100K is considered Cool White which is generally perfect for home garages and unfinished basements if you like white light.  If not, the 3500K is a nice in-between color, providing a bit of the warm and cool white.  Many offices use this color. 

 

I myself find my garage lights up nicely with 4100/4000K, especially if you have white walls/ceiling, which reflect that white light better.  In my previous garage, I had a combination of Cool white and Warm White (3000k) so at the flick of a switch, I could turn on a bank of lights that had 4000K LED or Fluorescent, or I could go with the 3000K warm white, which I liked using at night when I didn't need bright light for what I was working on.   I also love good old fashioned incandescent 150-250 watt light bulbs!  Like the old school days.  If I am not on a budget. 

 

It's your choice in the end, but do your research and you'll find that the daylight colors are not a good idea in the long run.  If you want bright light, get a 4000K LED with a higher lumen output. 

Many of the shop lights sold online or at places like Harbor Freight and such come with 5000K which is a big annoyance of mine.  Do your research. 

 

 

https://medicalxpress.com/news/2019-05-eyes-health-authority.html

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,264 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...