Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm sure this is posted somewhere in here i just can't seem to find it. I'm wanting to run a 2nd battery in 2020 2500HD and was hoping someone would have some insight into what was the best way to go about doing this. 

If there is already a thread then just point me at that and I will read through that, otherwise thanks for the help.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Is there anyone out there that can take a couple pictures of the second battery installation?  Perhaps the cover off the fuse block and along the wire run?

 

I ordered my truck to come with the second battery and they did not put this in, I instead got the powered lift and drop tailgate.  This feature is not available (don't think so?) on your typical LT model so it was a bit of a surprise.  The added battery is so I can power things in the back cap while I work out of it when doing on site carpentry type things.

 

I have been through the GM Upfitters  and the auxiliary battery is not yet a bulletin, also their electrical schematic manual has some mistakes - or there are some differences in my trucks wiring from what they have listed.

 

The fuse block (X50E) that connects to the positive on the aux battery is about $165.00  the guy at the parts counter doesn't have one in stock and with covid you cannot go and look anyway - I want to know if the isolation relay and control relay are actually included in this part (GM 84663447).  If not, $165.00 is ridiculous for just a piece of ABS plastic.  There is no listing for the relay on the parts page so that is also confusing.

 

The tray is in place already and the wire harness looks like it is just a short pigtail added to the main connection back to the X50A fuse box - just do not know where the isolation relay power comes from (supposed to be connector X136) so will have to find that.

 

Any pictures would be great....thanks

Posted

Build ur own setup I have automatic relay from ebay and power wire ran from alternator...my second battery only powers my aftermarket accessories when not running but when running goes both waysb9698c8063a47b037a38fc0ba0b953dc.jpg

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Posted

I don't think the factory auxiliary battery for the 2500 gas includes an isolation system. 

 

afaik they are wired up same as on duramax, so they operate same as one big battery and the option requires either the larger alternator of the dual alternators

 

standard setup on LT8 (gasser) 

Battery, heavy-duty 720 cold-cranking amps/80 Amp-hr, maintenance-free with rundown protection and retained accessory power
1 -  Included and only available with (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine. 

 

Dmax set-up

    Battery, heavy-duty dual 730 cold-cranking amps/70 Amp-hr, maintenance-free with rundown protection and retained accessory power
1 -  Included and only available with (L5P) Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine.

 

Extra battery setup for gasser

K4B         Battery, auxiliary, 730 cold-cranking amps/70 Amp-hr
1 -  Requires (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine and either (KW5) 220-amp alternator or (KHF) dual alternators. Not available with (KW7) 170-amp alternator. 

 

 

The snowplow package and dmax both include the bigger alternator -- but it can be ordered without snowplow prep

KW5         Alternator, 220 amps
1 -  Included with (L5P) Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine or (VYU) Snow Plow Prep/Camper Package. Free flow on (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine. 

 

 

 

Posted

So here is the crazy thing:

 

On my truck: 2021 2500HD 6.6 gas LT I requested the 220 amp alternator and aux battery - It didn't come that way - no aux battery and a 170 alternator 

 

BUT:  My fuse panel on top of the regular battery is NOT the correct one for the set up as fitted (according to GM parts)  my fuse block is part number 84646133   this is a fuse block from a 1500 diesel with a 220 amp alternator.  So my fuse block (X50D) has the following F1 - 250 Amp connected to 170 Amp ALT, F2 - 175 Amp connected to Fuse Bock X50A  F3 - 400 Amp connected to Starter Motor  The next 2 fuses are 60 amp and run to the interior fuse panels and then I have a 1 more wire in the supposedly F4  position that is not fused and is a decent size wire.  No idea where this runs to and does not jive with any wiring diagrams on the GMUpfitters.

 

From the wire diagrams it "should" be easy enough to install the GM Fuse Block Auxiliary Battery 84663447.  The wire from F2 175 amp  would run to the 100 amp fuse in the X50E aux battery  block and then back to the X50A fuse panel.  The Auxiliary Fuse Block may already have the battery isolation relay  (KR79) that is supposedly controlled with a simple connection to the body control module. (connector x136).  This would be a very simple install and follows the jist of the parts diagrams for the auxiliary installation.

 

The GMUpfitters electrical seems to be riddled with mistakes or errors , probably created by the lack of parts during covid - my truck is supposed to have the main battery fuse block X50D as part number 84646132, which I suspect has a lower rated 200 Amp F1 Fuse, not the 250 - it will make a 220 alt upgrade a lot easier though.

 

I have an after market isolator, but for simplicity and looks under the hood it would be just as easy to purchase the required X50E OEM part.  

 

I tried to load the wire diagram and pics but exceeded the limit and then it won't let me try again...

 

 

 

 

IMG_5225.JPG

Posted

What I think is correct the the 2500HD LT for the Aux Battery circuit:

 

1318223289_ElectricalAuxBAtt2500HDLT.thumb.jpg.701675df0ad1459b3efde6ad2e3712c4.jpg

 

On this drawing though, F79UA 10A is misnamed and actually called the AUX BATT/SCRPM in other locations of the electrical schematics

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

@BrentH I'm just wondering if you ever got this figured out. I have the 220A alternator, just trying to understand what you found you needed for parts. Thanks. 

Posted

Hey @Rozz522,

 

I ordered part number 84663447 - J Block Auxiliary Battery,   84471670 Junction Block Cover

 

I still have to get under the hood (I am away till next week) and clarify a few things:  "Supposedly" under the battery mount could be the connector X136 which would then allow you to run  to the relay KR81 (Auxiliary Battery Relay 1)  from this relay you go to the KR79 (Auxiliary Battery Relay 2) that supposedly comes included in the J Block Auxiliary Battery?  I ordered the 220 amp alternator so I have to wait for parts to arrive.

 

I have some questions still to answer about the fuse block X50D as I have a wire coming off it that is not identified in the Upfitter wire diagrams.

 

I plan to make the battery hold down parts as they are expensive for what they are.  A new positive cable just has a pig tail off the end connection so 

I will also make that verses buying a new cable - same with the ground.

 

I downloaded a pic from this site where someone was discussing the connections.  This is what it would/should end up like:

455867821_AuxiliaryBatteryview.thumb.jpg.cbcb684291a8bbb094ee5ebcf9ced2fa.jpg

 

 

Trying to figure out where the unfused terminal above the blue connection goes to?  It is not on any drawings other than the Diesel engine where it would go to an auxiliary heater?  I have seen YOUTUBE videos and it is not on some of the trucks??  Maybe it runs to the Invertor for the 120 outlets??

Untitled.thumb.jpg.6164fe54c2d87471797b3617dfa14330.jpg

 

From the Upfitter site material the Auxiliary battery will charge when you are in tow/haul mode and pulling a trailer, or I assume in that mode.  Still figuring out if that is the whole gist of it?

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

My son just checked the truck and the battery connection to the lug I was asking about in the previous post-it is dead - no power going to it.  So Hmmmmm....What is somewhere in the truck that has no power and then why is it there?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hello, 

 

So i have everything installed except for the one control relay that is supposed to come off the body control module to allow charging to take place after the engine is running.  

 

A wire from the fuse panel  is for the power to close the isolation relay.  Some where in the wire harness should be a plugged 4 conductor with three feeds -  I cannot find it anywhere - "should be" under the auxiliary battery tray.....frustrated.......

 

I installed the upfitter switches - that job was a couple hours, everything clicked easy.

 

If anyone has the auxiliary battery fitted in gasser 6.6 can you post a pic or two of the wire harness tie in after the first small relay?  

Posted

I might not be the best to try to help, but I do have a gasser with the factory Aux batt.

Pics should be in order, from top of battery with cover removed and then just follow the wire loom.  Last pic is where it connects to fuse block with that cover removed.  If you let me know where you need more detail I might be able to get it.

 

FWIW, as far as I know the aux batt is connected to the 12V of the camper/trailer plugs.  I have not added any accessories.  It is isolated from the primary battery in every 'key' position except run. Connected in run to charge.  Doesn't matter if tow/haul, etc.

 

Good luck

IMG_1085.JPG

IMG_1086.JPG

IMG_1087.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

More pics.

 

Next to last is a more close-up of the engine end , pos end of the aux batt, sort of repeat of pic two

Again, if you point out on pics where you need more I might be able to help.

 

IMG_1088.JPG

IMG_1089.JPG

IMG_1090.JPG

Edited by Wxman
Posted

 

@Wxman You are awesome!   so the grey relay in your second last pic and also in the second pic has 3 wires coming into it : red/white, black and a violet/brown

 

The violet/brown comes from the BCM and energises the grey relay once the truck is started.  The red/white comes from the fuse block right there beside the battery (X50A) and once the truck is running  the grey relay closes and White/Red powers the isolation relay in picture .  The black is just ground.  There are a pile of errors in the GMUpfitters electrical drawings.  Your assembly contradicts the wire harness from the parts options - no issues, just adds more confusion.

Looks like I will need to splice into a few connections.  My truck has the "auxiliary Battery" 10 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse block (X50A) (red/white) and has a violet/brown coming off the body control ....where did they run it??    I also have an electrical heater in the cabin for a diesel engine that is not connected....WTF

 

Here is your pic with a few questions.  If you can locate the end of the connector spice, I "should" be able to chop open the wire harness and possibly find 2 ends with a seal on them.IMG_1086.JPG.de2f50a0f2bd8a94126b225eb573c4f4.thumb.jpg.afb4c6b53062db351f732e8a5a222528.jpg 

 

Your pictures give me hope! thank you for response.  If I can get this mod nailed I will post how to do it.  Terrible access to some of the stuff, had the wheel well protectors out 5 times now.....alas

 

Regards, 

 

Brent

Posted

Not easy, sorry.

The first pic shows how that loom 'terminates' into a very large bundle below the aux batter tray.  That large bundle runs up behind the power steering reservoir. There it most of it turns and goes back toward the firewall, but it has a couple sprouts right behind the reservoir.  One of them goes into some kind of plug right there; the other looks to go and follow along the valve cover on the passenger side.  The third pic shows the large bundle going the other direction.  It goes into a black hole behind part of the support for the aux battery tray.  Sorry it isn't obvious to me.

IMG_1093.thumb.JPG.5d40f08956d077666d305b089e4c2556.JPG

IMG_1092.JPG

IMG_1094.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Needs a manifold gauge hooked up and the pressures read.   If you don't have one, time to take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.  
    • How rusty is the truck?     The transfer cases on these are an aluminum case.  If its anything like the rear diffs on the 2015-2022 Chevy Trax, those will corrode bad to the point it will push fluid through the housing via corrosion porosity or a crack from age/stress.    We have seen folks over tighten the drain and fill plugs on these transfer cases and crack them that way as well.    So I'd say its a 50/50 shot on re-sealing the case.  If all of the surfaces are good and its not badly corroded, they probably can re-seal it.  GM uses RTV to seal the case halves.   If they mention JB Weld, the issue is the case.  Be it a crack or corrosion.  JB Weld "might" hold if they clean EVERYTHING very well and drain the fluid out of the case and clean the crack and then seal it.      
    • A while back, my truck (2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3) went in for an o2 sensor and routine service. The tech identified that my rear output seal on my transfer case was leaking, and recommended I have them replace it. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and had them do the repair. Less than a month later, I noticed that the recently repaired seal was leaking again. I called the shop that did the repair and they warrantied the repair and replaced the same seal again. A few months later, I noticed that once again the same seal leak had come back. It wasn't a great time to bring it in and I ended up just living with it for 6 months or so, noticing small (smaller than a baseball) size oil stains below the truck when it would sit for a while, as well as oil spray on the frame (to the point where it actually took the underbody coating off in that one spot). Finally got around to brining it in again, but this time I took it to a dealership service center since I am in a different part of the state for school. They identified the same output seal leaks and recommended they replace them. They also said there was no scoring on the inside of the transfer case, so it didn't need to be replaced. They chalked up the original repair failures to non oem seals and a job that wasn't done correctly. Now they called and said the seals are holding after driving/sitting for a while, but they found a very small leak in the middle, that they recommended they seal with some kind of silicone/jb weld (not sure what they are using). I haven't picked up the truck yet, but I have been reluctant about this whole repair process because I feel like they are just fixing the same thing that keeps coming back, and I am concerned there could be another root cause for the seal failing. Has anybody else experienced anything like this, or have any ideas on other things that could be the root cause?
    • I just started having AC issues with my 2012 Sierra. The symptom is blowing warm air on all vents.  Here is what I have checked so far. Compressor clutch appears to be engaging and cycling  I checked all fuses and relay, no issues. The only thing I have notices is the short line that comes from the firewall is very cold / frosted. This line is approximately 12 inches long. The coldness stops when it hits the first line connector. As far as AC compressor - At first start the clutch engages, runs continually, Short AC line frosts up. After idling for several minutes the AC line thaws out some but is still cool and the compressor clutch starts cycling on and off every 5 seconds.  Any suggestions on what to look at next would be appreciated.  
    • Unless you are using a bypass filer system with a Beta of 1000 at 2 micron the commercial filters we have access to, even the very best of them, are poor at the 5 to 10 micron range the typical UOA test can 'see'. Point is there are some truly awful filters being sold A 45 micron Beta 75 filter is what Dyson used to call a screen door on a submarine. That leaves wear metals disconnected from filtration unless particulates are larger than the test can 'see' and yet captured by the filter...which is its job. If that is true then you have a major issue screaming at you.    The graph isn't mine. It belongs to GM and their study on this area. I looked up those studies and provided those SAE tech paper addresses multiple times. Machinery Lubrication displayed it and confirmed it. So if you have doubts about the study you'll have to take it up with GM Engineering. Just like you would have to take up a difference in opinion about the meaning a word with Webster or the length of on inch with the National Institute of Standards and Technology.      Most manuals have two schedules. "Normal Service" and "Severe Service". On it's face it tells you that oil in severe service is more highly stressed and doesn't "Last as Long". The item to bore in on is LAST...what does that mean?    It's the same question one asks about how long to toast bread. What are the inputs? Bread type? Wattage of the toaster? Distance from the elements? What is your preferred level of done?    So lets paint this with a broader brush. Oil is made up of the base and the additive package. The first is altered by heat and oxygen and later is sacrificial with a finite life subject to inputs toward that end. Resistance and supply.    It is the reason an OEM's OCI's are determined by 1.) the specifications of the recommended lubricant and 2.) risk management toward the bottom line. Those lubricants are also subject to cost effectiveness for the OEM.    There is a tendency for most people to believe that the OEM recommended oil rest on the top shelf and that anything other is lesser than. Truth is there are more oils on higher shelves than those on the lower shelf below the OEM's. They make that choice on COST TO THE OEM. Testing is incidental to the margin.    GM makes MONEY, the car/truck is a TOOL to leverage MONEY. Insert whatever car brand you like. Until you forking over a million plus COST not quality is the driver. Thus it is by DESIGN the recommended OCI's and oils fall well short of 'best practice protections'. Proof isn't hard to find. GM Ecotec I-4 2400 breather system and cold start PCM tuning has killed more motors and resulted in more litigation for those that used the 'recommended' practice than GM could bear. What was their response? SHORTEN THE OCI. TWICE.    I don't know how long to leave oil in an I don't know how the oil will respond to MY circumstances and because I don't and can't blanket statement or anecdotal evidence my way out of it.....I TEST and FIND the right OCI for the oil I CHOOSE. There is no shortcut but there is blind allegiance. I don't blindly trust anything.    People hear the word 'detergent' and believe that in the context of oil it means the same thing as laundry soap... Only in the most rudimentary way. It's the first additive to give up on you and they are putting less and less with each new API standard. Solvency can be used but it cost. Some unique undisclosed chemistries can be used. Valvoline R & P in example. OEM's haven't an interest in anything they see as limiting market participation. Whatever.         
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...