Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello so I have a 14 Sierra 1500 sle 4x4

i was towing my 16ft flatbed trailer and using the 4hi mode and I back the trailer up and turned it off with the 4 on. I turn it in and the service 4wd shows up. I said huh weird and pulled the truck out.  I tried to turn it back to 2wd and it won’t change. The light doesn’t turn on for 2 hi, auto or 4low. I know that it’s in 4hi bc when I turn it hops. Had to drive with the 16ft for about 30mins on 4hi   

24617432-5911-4829-806A-03453EF0FCD8.png

35E6CF41-41AB-4A4B-807E-8CFAD40FED11.jpeg

Posted

I just had to replace the transfer case force motor and position sensor in my '14.  Very similar behavior.  I was in 4auto moving a trailer.  Parked it, forgot to turn on auto.  Got in the next morning, turn it to 2wd, nothing changes.  Auto light blinked, went out, and then no 4wd position lights.  "Service 4wd" light came on, and it was stuck in 4wd.  You don't wanna know the price.  

 

Posted
30 minutes ago, bdbake01 said:

I just had to replace the transfer case force motor and position sensor in my '14.  Very similar behavior.  I was in 4auto moving a trailer.  Parked it, forgot to turn on auto.  Got in the next morning, turn it to 2wd, nothing changes.  Auto light blinked, went out, and then no 4wd position lights.  "Service 4wd" light came on, and it was stuck in 4wd.  You don't wanna know the price.  

 

Yikes sounds bad then. I’m going to see if maybe changing the transfer case oil and or the switch might help. I gotta know how you paid friend 

Posted
4 minutes ago, SleSierra14 said:

Yikes sounds bad then. I’m going to see if maybe changing the transfer case oil and or the switch might help. I gotta know how you paid friend 

$1,411 at the dealership.  Not happy about it.  Good luck.  FYI, apparently there's some specialized tool for removing/reinstalling the force motor.  Normally I do these kinda jobs myself, but I didn't have the tool or the time in this case.  

Posted
4 minutes ago, bdbake01 said:

$1,411 at the dealership.  Not happy about it.  Good luck.  FYI, apparently there's some specialized tool for removing/reinstalling the force motor.  Normally I do these kinda jobs myself, but I didn't have the tool or the time in this case.  

Mmm is the dealership the only place that could fix it? Apart from oneself , the good thing is that I have another truck (06 ram)in the meantime if I fix it myself.  

Posted
On 5/10/2019 at 9:38 AM, Mr.GGMMCC said:

2014 GMC was stuck in 4WD (High) with message "Service 4WD"    As with several other comments....not 100% what caused it but....transfer case was stuck in 4WD (high) and the light on the selector dial would only come on when the selector dial was on "AUTO".    But it was not in "Auto" it was in 4WD (High).   To test if it was the electrical or mechanical, with the truck off,  I first removed the fuse #6 (FWD) in fuse panel in the engine comp (without DC power it shifts to 2wd)   I did a short test drive to see if the 4WD had disengaged and it had.   When I put the fuse back in, it reengaged the FWD and the actuator was still stuck, turning the dial on the dash still did nothing. 

To resolve or get it to reset.  I left the truck engine running and again removed the fuse.  With the engine still running, I turned the dial to 4WD (hi) and put the fuse back in.  This time is cycled and the light on the dial was now on when it was in 4WD hi,  to match what the transfer case was positioned in.   

Now when I rotated the dial it shifted to Auto, 2WD, etc. with the light blinking during shift just like it is supposed to.   It has been working fine since then.  I sort of viewed it as forcing it to reboot.    I may have been able to get this same result with the ignition switch simply turned (without the engine running), but that isn't how I did it.         

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...