About to buy a trailer, now not sure if my truck can pull it

[malibu43]

So we have been travel trailer shopping the last few weeks and were ready to pull the trigger on one tomorrow morning.  It's a 22ft Keystone Passport with a shipped weight of 4660lbs and a carrying capacity of 1770lbs.  Shame on me for relying on a quick google search last weekend to think my truck can easily tow this.  I just dug into and now realize this trailer might be right at the limit of what I can pull.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 4WD Crew Cab with the 5.8L V8, and it looks like an axel ratio of 3.08 according to the sticker in my glove box.  According to my manual I have max towing capacity of 6100lbs and max gross combined weight of 12000lbs.

 

So if we loaded that trailer to its max capacity, I'm exceeding my max towing capacity by 5%.  What's the real world impact of this?  Since the same truck with different axel ratios can pull more, would it just be a performance issue or could this damage the drive train?

 

I'm not 100% what the curb weight of my truck is, but if it's somewhere around 5400lbs (high end according to google) and we had the trailer loaded to the max weight, that doesn't really leave much room for my family (4 of us).  Of course, I'm not sure how likely it is that we'd have 1700lbs of stuff in the trailer... that seems like a lot.

 

Bottom line, it seems like if we get this trailer we could be just under, right at, or in some cases maybe a tad over what my truck is rated for towing wise.  Is it a bad idea to cut it this close?

 

Thanks.

[Z45]

Many towing experts recommend you should be at least 10% under your max towing spec's. 

 

IMO you have the wrong truck.   Have your considered how to control and stop it in a panic??   It might he a life and death experience in heavy traffic.  

Edited August 2, 2021 by elcamino

[btj_z71]

8 hours ago, malibu43 said:

So we have been travel trailer shopping the last few weeks and were ready to pull the trigger on one tomorrow morning.  It's a 22ft Keystone Passport with a shipped weight of 4660lbs and a carrying capacity of 1770lbs.  Shame on me for relying on a quick google search last weekend to think my truck can easily tow this.  I just dug into and now realize this trailer might be right at the limit of what I can pull.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 4WD Crew Cab with the 5.8L V8, and it looks like an axel ratio of 3.08 according to the sticker in my glove box.  According to my manual I have max towing capacity of 6100lbs and max gross combined weight of 12000lbs.

 

So if we loaded that trailer to its max capacity, I'm exceeding my max towing capacity by 5%.  What's the real world impact of this?  Since the same truck with different axel ratios can pull more, would it just be a performance issue or could this damage the drive train?

 

I'm not 100% what the curb weight of my truck is, but if it's somewhere around 5400lbs (high end according to google) and we had the trailer loaded to the max weight, that doesn't really leave much room for my family (4 of us).  Of course, I'm not sure how likely it is that we'd have 1700lbs of stuff in the trailer... that seems like a lot.

 

Bottom line, it seems like if we get this trailer we could be just under, right at, or in some cases maybe a tad over what my truck is rated for towing wise.  Is it a bad idea to cut it this close?

 

Thanks.

Although not safe, you would probably be okay.  The main difference between your truck and others with a higher tow rating is the 3.08 axle ratio.  You've got the same engine and brakes and suspension, but that axle ratio is more for mpg than towing.  Your truck with the 3.73 has a ~9k lbs tow rating. 

 

It'll be a struggle on the powertrain to get a heavy load moving and stay moving.

[StinkyCheese]

Don't forget your truck's vehicle gross as well.  You said you were a family of 4.  Normally half tons run out of carrying capacity before they ever hit their max tow.  Stickers on the door/door jamb will tell you what it weighed coming from GM.

[malibu43]

_{Thanks for replies everyone.  Really wish I would have uncovered this earlier in the process.}

 

I know 1/2 tons typically run into gross weight issues before towing issues, but it would seem that's more relevant for the trucks with the higher axel ratio and the ~9000lbs max tow capacity.  With a 6200lb max towing capacity, It seems like I may max that out first.  The sticker on my door says 1700lb capacity for passengers, gear, etc...  Also, just to clarify, I am absolutely getting a brake controller and WDH.

 

Based on the shopping we've done, a smaller trailer isn't really a possibility for our family.  So it seems like my choices would be:

1.  Don't buy a trailer right now.  Wait until we get a bigger truck (or an appropriately geared truck) and then buy a trailer.

2.  Buy the trailer and see how it goes on the first few trips.  If I struggle on climbs, then make a decision to re-gear or trade in for something that can pull what we have.

 

Trading in isn't really something we've budgeted for right now, so not sure when that could happen.  Also, I'm not sure how to know whether I'd want a 1500 with higher towing capacity or a 2500 without having seen how my current truck handles the trailer.  It's a big decision to make without knowing if it's the right one or not.

 

With all that in mind, does option 2 make more sense, given that I already have the truck I have?  I've read some other posts where that was ultimately the recommendation for people in situations similar to mine (see how it goes then decide if you need something else to tow with...)...

 

Thanks!

[swathdiver]

13 hours ago, malibu43 said:

So we have been travel trailer shopping the last few weeks and were ready to pull the trigger on one tomorrow morning.  It's a 22ft Keystone Passport with a shipped weight of 4660lbs and a carrying capacity of 1770lbs.  Shame on me for relying on a quick google search last weekend to think my truck can easily tow this.  I just dug into and now realize this trailer might be right at the limit of what I can pull.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 4WD Crew Cab with the 5.8L V8, and it looks like an axel ratio of 3.08 according to the sticker in my glove box.  According to my manual I have max towing capacity of 6100lbs and max gross combined weight of 12000lbs.

 

So if we loaded that trailer to its max capacity, I'm exceeding my max towing capacity by 5%.  What's the real world impact of this?  Since the same truck with different axel ratios can pull more, would it just be a performance issue or could this damage the drive train?

 

I'm not 100% what the curb weight of my truck is, but if it's somewhere around 5400lbs (high end according to google) and we had the trailer loaded to the max weight, that doesn't really leave much room for my family (4 of us).  Of course, I'm not sure how likely it is that we'd have 1700lbs of stuff in the trailer... that seems like a lot.

 

Bottom line, it seems like if we get this trailer we could be just under, right at, or in some cases maybe a tad over what my truck is rated for towing wise.  Is it a bad idea to cut it this close?

 

Thanks.

Subtract your payload capacity from your GVW (grey sticker on door) to get your as delivered curb weight which includes a full tank of full and no driver.  Then subtract from all the junk, larger wheels and tires and consider how much the four passengers weigh and their stuff and  you'll know how much is leftover for tongue weight.

 

Watch how much stuff goes into the camper, it adds up quick!  

 

If yours were mine and I found myself in your shoes, I'd change the ring and pinion gears to 3.73 and check the engine bay for an external transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler going into the driver's side of the radiator.  On my generation, our cooling fans are also more powerful, 700 watts versus 500 watts and I would check that too on your K2.

 

This would bring the Max Trailer Weight up to 10,800 pounds and a GCWR of 16,700 pounds. 

[Black02Silverado]

Safety is my main concern 100%.  So what a vehicle is rated at is what I go with.  Not to mention if something happens accident wise and you  are over  what you are supposed to tow can things get messy on insurance?  I wouldn't think so but it seems now a days, insurance tries to find a way to get out of paying any way they can.

 

Getting up to speed is one as is stopping.  Don't forget handling in high cross winds or even simple tractor trailers passing you.

[Amcguy1970]

Option #2. Buy the trailer, it is close but in this case it isn't so much as the limit of the truck (brakes, suspension, weight are all fine in the full size) this is more a performance issue from the 3.08's and getting weight up the davis dam in 100 degree weather. I would just pack a little light to be sure you are under the stated capacity of the truck and see how it performs. If you are in a flatter area (you didn't list where you live or where you are towing and how far) but if the terrain isn't very extreme the performance difference might not be much an issue for you. The weight of the trailer for the size and weight of the truck is no issues, as others have said the brakes, suspension, engine, etc are all the same it is just the gears and maybe a transmission cooler? That limits you from the higher weights of the 9k+lb tow capacity trucks. You will stop and handle it just fine... Shoot, that trailer I would pull with a mid size on occasion depending on the setup and additional weight as well as where I was pulling. 

 

So I would buy it and see, if it struggles a little and you want more you can regear (though that won't change the actual legal amount your truck can still handle based on the door jamb sticker) or when supply is better you can find a better deal on a new truck set up better for your needs. Either way your current truck will handle it. 

 

Tyler

[newdude]

Its not your stopping power that is of concern here.  All the 1500's use the same brakes whether its an NHT max trailer or not.  Your issue is gearing and possibly payload as a result of the gearing.

 

On your white and yellow tire label on your door jamb what does it say your cargo capacity is?  

[malibu43]

8 minutes ago, newdude said:

Its not your stopping power that is of concern here.  All the 1500's use the same brakes whether its an NHT max trailer or not.  Your issue is gearing and possibly payload as a result of the gearing.

 

On your white and yellow tire label on your door jamb what does it say your cargo capacity is?  

 

1716lbs

 

 

[malibu43]

 

 

Quote

...option #2...

 

... (you didn't list where you live)...

 

Tyler

 

San Diego area. So it can get hot, and going over the grapevine to get into the sierras will happen once or twice a year. 

 

Will do some shorter test trips first and see how it goes before tackling that. 

 

But, yes, I think we are going option #2.  My wife and I agreed we can find a way to pay for re-gearing or trade in and upgrade depending on how it goes. 

 

Thanks!

Edited August 2, 2021 by malibu43

[pokismoki]

you need a MAXTow WT truck option.  our little 5.3's aren't built to tow with our cooling system. your gear ratio sucks, but if you went with a 5th wheel trailer you could do it safely in 3.08

 

if you have the 8 speed transmission your fine, its just not a good ratio for the 6 speed trucks

Edited August 2, 2021 by pokismoki

[newdude]

1 hour ago, malibu43 said:

 

1716lbs

 

 

 

 

 

Not too bad.  Figure 600lbs of tongue weight on there that leaves you with about 1100lbs for you and other people and gear.  It will be a workout for 3.08s but if weighed properly (between the truck and trailer) and not exceeding the GCWR, it "could" do it.  It's not going to like it that's for sure.

 

Market is still high for trade values so if a replacement truck is easy to find, it might be worth it.  

Edited August 2, 2021 by newdude

[garagerog]

 

Quote

 

San Diego area. So it can get hot, and going over the grapevine to get into the sierras will happen once or twice a year. 

 

Will do some shorter test trips first and see how it goes before tackling that. 

 

But, yes, I think we are going option #2.  My wife and I agreed we can find a way to pay for re-gearing or trade in and upgrade depending on how it goes. 

 

Thanks!

 

Edited August 2, 2021 by garagerog

[garagerog]

5 minutes ago, garagerog said:

I'll try this one more time, lost everything when I tried to edit, going with the short version this time, I've done the grapvine once, in an HD 84 K-20 with in-bed camper, get the 3.73's, maybe even a 4.10 ratio if that will work with your differentials. If you'll spend any time on 99 in the central valley, get a bug screen. Maybe the drought has taken care of this but much of the median area on 99 had vegetation that was a butterfly mecca, or take I-5 all the way north to Sacramento.