Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

Edited by Nick__
Posted (edited)

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Edited by richmz
  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Grover67 said:

My '20 AT4 is 2" difference stock height

 

 


Same here.

Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, Nick__ said:

Hi guys. New member here. I'm fresh from the introduction area. 😀  But I did have a question I couldn't find the answer to. My 2021 AT4 is a full 3 inches higher in the rear than it is in the front. That seems excessive. I only know this because I was measuring to see what kind of leveling kit to purchase. Anyone with a similar experience?

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

I measured mine this morning (bone stock for AT4 specs), 3" of rake, measured at the center of the wheels, ground to lower lip of wheel well.

 

It looks level, perhaps an optical illusion with that big old honking grill...

 

But clearly is ready for a real level.  :)

Posted

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

I just installed some of those fancy AMP Research power steps, so I am thinking higher... 😉

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 


Also new here. Wasn’t aware of this. What brand and model number is recommended?

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 7:27 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Are you measuring from the ground?

 

Most of the times rake is measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well.  Using this point, 1500's run right at about 2" front to rear difference, HD trucks run about 3".    

 

Also.  Leveling an AT4, you MUST get new upper control arms or you WILL have ball joint failure.  

 

 

Yes, I was measuring from the ground. I'll try measuring from the top of the tire. I wasn't aware that was the correct way. Thanks for the heads up!

Posted
On 11/13/2021 at 6:23 AM, richmz said:

It's important to know what you're measurement reference is.

Are you measuring from..

 

Top of tire to center of wheel well?

 

Ground to bumper?

 

Ground to frame?

 

Most pickups are higher at rear by design so that when loaded it will distribute the weight properly.

 

Here is a '21 GM AT4 file photo. The rear rake is noticeable, probably about what you're seeing.

spacer.png

 

Last year I took some photos of mine on level ground when loaded with over 20 bags of bark mulch. I was impressed with it's stance with it loaded, likely around 1,000 lbs or more. It handled fine at speed too.

 

 

AT4_053.jpg

AT4_051.jpg

AT4_052.jpg

Measuring from the ground to bottom of wheel well. Thanks for the info.

Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Interesting idea. I actually was wondering about this. Seems like it's a good way to get a safer level for less money on the AT4. But then it would sit a little lower than a front "lifted" AT4. Maybe not a bad thing?

Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 1:20 AM, AD80 said:

You could always remove the rear block. That should get you level without changing you front end angles. Since it is already raise 2”

front and rear from the factory, if you remove the rear block, it should sit the same as a non at4 with a front level kit. So it won’t look too low if that’s what your thinking.

Do you think it would be better to lower the rear with lowering shackles, or removing the rear block?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • HD at the moment, are kinda their own deal.  How LTZ sells on those vs on 1500, there is a difference.   They are merging most of the mid trims on 1500.  LT, RST and LTZ are replaced by one trim, Silverado.  LT and RST are a BIG portion of sales.    Bad naming choice aside, the new Silverado trim will offer the spread of options that those three trims offered.  So expect to see things like the tech package for example, and maybe memory seats.  And LT Trail Boss will now just be "Trail Boss" (formerly LT Trail Boss) but will offer content spread like the new Silverado trim will.  The press photos showed the Trail Boss (formerly LT Trail Boss) has access to Super Cruise now, which on the current truck was High Country only.        
    • I installed a Hellwig rear sway bar on my 21 Sierra SLT, it made a huge difference on how the truck handles, no body roll, the trucks much more planted now. Not sure of the suspension differences between the 21 and 26,  if its body roll your having a sway bar will solve it. 
    • So a follow up and my fix. I found in online searches the live data to look at on a scan tool to verify the fuel tank pressure sensor was working.  It showed an spec number towards the lower end of the rang, but in spec.  Then while it was running opened the gas cap and the pressure should change.  It didn't change even a tiny bit.  The data for the purge valve said it was open...never changed. So then I measured the voltages on the plug for the fuel pressure sensor and they matched what it should be.  So local car quest parts had the sensor in stock...it was a bit of a pain to remove and an even bigger one to get it to actually go back in.  It helped to unbolt the driveshaft and bungie cord away from the gas tank to give a bit more room to work. So fuel tank pressure sensor in I cleared the code, and started it up.  I went to the scan tool's live data and... Eureka! The pressure number was different and fluctuated a bit.  So took it on a short drive and pressure number varied saw the purge valve go from closed to open and back to closed.  Drove it to and from work for roughly a week plugged in the scan tool no codes.  I took it in to get tested and passed.  In my state's infinite wisdom (oops meant greed), since I pushed the test with the maximum extensions I have to take it back in by Feb '27 to 'get it back up to date', then my next test won't be until Feb '29. 
    • Any grease on the stud threads of any kind?   Wheel studs should have NOTHING on them for proper torquing and so the nuts don't back off.     Are all of the mating surfaces clean?  So wheel, rotor and hub?     We've had plenty of trucks at work with that wheel, this is a first to me.  Makes me think they've got a lube tech putting anti-seize on all the wheel studs or some kind of grease, and they need to stop doing that.  To have 11 other trucks with the same exact problem.      
    • I was a Chevy guy for years, then switched to GMC because I liked the looks better.  I'm actually thinking I like the Chevy looks better than GMC for the first time in a lot of years.   One thing I know for certain, the new GMC dash is hideous!  Chevy wins this one!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...