Torsion Bar Adjust / Replace

[mattd]

I've replaced my rear leaf springs and all 4 shocks on my 2000 Sierra Z71 with 185k miles.  It still feels (and slightly sounds) rickety.  I've convinced myself that it is coming from the front end.  

 

Are torsion bars likely something that needs to be replaced?  Could they just be adjusted with the key?  Any chance coil springs would go directly on and help?

[asilverblazer]

I'd say no to all the above.

 

Check normal wear components like ball joints, tie rods, idlers, bushings, etc. Lube job too.

[richard wysong]

torsion bars  wouldn't make noise unless broken. they are adjustable for ride height with the bolts at the rear of the bar. its probably the control arms your hearing if the ball joints and sway bar bushings are in good shape. did you replace the shock bolts that were corroded? sometimes they won't tighten enuff if they were worn or corroded

[newdude]

Worn torsion bars would produce a sag rather than a noise complaint.  If they are snapped in half, that would produce a noise for sure.  I would look at the bar mount bushings however, make sure those are still there and ok.

 

I'd start by checking inner and outer tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and the bar bushings.  Check for bad wheel bearings, make sure all brake hardware is tight like caliper to bracket and bracket to knuckle.  Check play in the pitman and idler arms.  Check your control arm bushings upper and lower, and shock mounting hardware.  

 

 

[mattd]

Not a noise complaint. I should have phrased that diff. It’s not a slight noise. Like 10% of the time the front sounds a little creaky. 
 

100% of the time it rides like crap. You feel every bump significantly. The new shocks keep it from floating and reverberating. But you feel every little thing. 

[Sharpz]

1 hour ago, mattd said:

Not a noise complaint. I should have phrased that diff. It’s not a slight noise. Like 10% of the time the front sounds a little creaky. 
 

100% of the time it rides like crap. You feel every bump significantly. The new shocks keep it from floating and reverberating. But you feel every little thing. 

You are probably due for upper and lower ball joints.  As for the ride, that could very well be just a tire choice issue. P rated tires tend to ride much nicer then say a stiffer LT tire.  There are many grease fittings for your front end that may solve some of that creaking noise. Some you cant get to very easy, but doable.  

[richard wysong]

creaky would be the ball joints or control arms, as for the ride quality its probably the tires or tire pressure.

[rbdjr]

2 hours ago, newdude said:

Worn torsion bars would produce a sag rather than a noise complaint.  If they are snapped in half, that would produce a noise for sure.  I would look at the bar mount bushings however, make sure those are still there and ok.

 

I'd start by checking inner and outer tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and the bar bushings.  Check for bad wheel bearings, make sure all brake hardware is tight like caliper to bracket and bracket to knuckle.  Check play in the pitman and idler arms.  Check your control arm bushings upper and lower, and shock mounting hardware.  

 

 

All good advice check the lower ittermedit steering shaft also  

[dna9656]

When inspecting suspension and steering components have the vehicle up off it's wheels so the suspension/steering hangs free of the vehicle weight. Use proper jack stands, the fun and thrill of having a vehicle fall while you're working on it is surpassed only by your being UNDER it when it comes down. Gravity does not discriminate. It treats everybody equally; trust me.

GMs have a weak point in the front end, the idler arm.  It seems they are almost always ready for replacement.

While I was at Pep Boys an old alignment guy once told me that some CHEVY idler arms are made so the arm can screw in or out. He said you can turn it clock wise ONE revolution ONE time and use it safely. That works if you own the vehicle, and have replaced the arm before; it doesn't work if you don't know if that's already been done so I don't ascribe to that again unless it's MY truck and I had replaced the tie rod previously. When you replace a tie rod (inner or outer) count the turns as you take it off, and install the new one the same number of turns, this way you're pretty close to being in alignment in most cases.

I have never replaced a pitman arm.

That's my 5 cents worth, 2 cents ain't enough no more.

[richard wysong]

you can't check ball joints or upper control arms unless you unload the spring/torsion bar by supporting the truck with stands under the lower control arms as close to the tire as possible. idler arms don't make any noise when worn and there is an old tsb that says some play is normal. it will cause tire wear and the truck may wander if its worn. I believe only some of the oe arms were adjustable but you won't know unless you remove it to replace it anyway

[richard wysong]

bad pitman arm will just cause excess play in the steering and are a PIA to change on 4wd. you have to unbolt the steering box to get the clearance to use the puller