Jump to content

2022 denali 2500hd looking for options of lift or level where you can keep the use of factory rims and auto 4wd.


Recommended Posts

Posted

I read that with the ready lift 3.5" they recommend not to use auto 4wd because it will cause vibration as it has trouble knowing how much torque to send. 

Posted

I hadn’t thought about the sensing that triggers auto 4wd.  However, just so you understand what auto 4wd does, I don’t think there is any ability to control torque sent to the front vs rear wheels. Auto 4wd simply commands the transfer case to go into 4wd when its logic detects a certain amount of slippage. 
 

I have owned a Yukon XL with auto 4wd for nearly 20 years. When I bought it they gave me a number of reasons for recommending that I not use it. I literally have never used it. I want to be in control of when I switch in and out of 4wd. 
 

I’ve always left my suspension stock other than shock replacements, so I have no experience to offer on lifting or leveling.

Posted

When you up that high you wanna drop front diff down so cv angles are flatter.....heard a few lifts that said auto 4wd isn't recommended and few peeps that had issues......

 

Long as axle angles are good should be no issues with 4wd.....I would do it just for piece of mind.....

 

3.5 to 4 in is too much without correcting geometry, imo

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I was told I could run my BDS lift with stock tires and wheels. I didn't as the wheels finally came in.

 

Edited by scwidy
Posted

Hey Fellas, I called ready lift directly and they said that not to use the auto 4 was the recommendation for the at4 1500. That I can continue to use it with my 2022 denali hd. The kits itself has diff drop spacers new a arms and new ball joints and tie rods to keep it close to factory angles. Also this kit kit comes with bilstein shocks all around. So 3.5" front 2" rear. I love my bds 6" lift on my work truck sierra 1500 but this lift honestly appealed to me more compared to the 3" bds(ball joints,tie rods.  I'm not a fan of fox shocks that come with it. 3000 cdn imstalled took forever to come in but its here gets installed on the 3rd or march here.

Posted

As for the auto 4wd my wife ran her 2010 suburban in auto 4 from November to April every year no issues with the transfer case. She has a  2016 yukon denali xl and no issues. My 2012 sierra 1500 with the 6" lift 35"x12.5 tires I run it in auto all the time for daily driving lease roads on the oil patch or on site up here in northern ab she is all ice and snow. If there is a good dump of the white stuff I throw it in 4 hi and if I'm chewing down a remote road she goes in 4 lo. I have 240,000km on it no issues with the transfer case......knock on wood.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
    • I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
    • So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1  5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as  68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now.    One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...