Jump to content

Which running boards???

INGMWETRUST
 Share

Recommended Posts

INGMWETRUST Enthusiast

INGMWETRUST

Posted
Posted

Picked up a Refreshed LTZ a few days ago.

Seems like a lot of of the trucks are not coming without any running boards installed

 

Anybody have any experience or recommendations on good quality running boards?

Not really interested in the power boards, a little too expensive and not too sure on how reliable they are.

 

denny noname Enthusiast

denny noname

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/14/2022 at 1:01 PM, bigRand said:

Picked up a Refreshed LTZ a few days ago.

Seems like a lot of of the trucks are not coming without any running boards installed

 

Anybody have any experience or recommendations on good quality running boards?

Not really interested in the power boards, a little too expensive and not too sure on how reliable they are.

 

I bought mine off ebay and had dealer install. Dealer wanted 800 for theirs,  mine all in 330 alittle over a year ago.

Edited by denny noname
reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted (edited)

I like these OEM wheel-to-wheel. I bought them off CL. Someone ordered them new, but they had two small dents on the side so Chevy sent them another pair. I got them for $300. Easy to install. 

 

 

 

image.png

Edited by reeseb
  • Like 1
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Mine has the same type as reeseb shows in the pic, but mine is a standard box, so the board goes further behind the rear door.

 

Still wheel-to-wheel. 

 

Happy with them. 

I like them better than the rectangular boards that were common on the previous generation.

  • Like 1
Richard Toomey Enthusiast

Richard Toomey

Posted
Posted (edited)

I can’t stand factory or round steps I found these by HDX DROP NERF STEPS . I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 they cost $539 but worth it there heavy duty and tuck up under rockers with just step hanging down . I’d recommend put some undercoating on the removable steps they aren’t powder coated very well.scroll past blank spot for pictures . Simple to install, I did mine by myself.

12817DAA-09EE-4F68-BEA5-C8DB701E980F.thumb.png.283c81764309b9b20380216af489f9aa.png

4CD7690F-E12E-433A-94A3-6B91EBC0FD15.png

21CA43D9-C9F9-4829-BEF3-37E0EEE1E3EB.jpeg

Edited by Richard Toomey
Add pictures and edit description
pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted
On 6/14/2022 at 10:01 AM, bigRand said:

Picked up a Refreshed LTZ a few days ago.

Seems like a lot of of the trucks are not coming without any running boards installed

 

Anybody have any experience or recommendations on good quality running boards?

Not really interested in the power boards, a little too expensive and not too sure on how reliable they are.

 

have you tried fitting the Tahoe or Suburban running boards, those are slick looking compared to the aftermarket steps

  • Like 1
TNTSierra Senior Enthusiast

TNTSierra

Posted
Posted

Mine is factory like other 2 gentleman’s vehicle. I have 6 ft 6 in box and it goes wheel well to wheel well. Nice and easy to clean back window stepping up onto extended board. 
 

 

9C68B0A7-362C-4DA7-8414-D23385C72C1D.jpeg

  • Like 2
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Even though I didn't have a pic, mine is a 'standard' box like TNT's.  As shown in the pic, the length behind the rear door means they can be used to help access something sitting in front corner of box.

 

I started buying boards in the '80's.

Trucks stock heights were lower, so primary motivation was to reduce / eliminate stone damage.

Flat styles do that better than tubes. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by redwngr
  • Thanks 1
bdallas Enthusiast

bdallas

Posted
Posted (edited)

I also have the RB20s and I like them a lot. I much prefer the looks over the others, but if they went wheel to wheel, they would be perfect, for the reasons redwngr and TNT mentioned.

IMG_1943.JPEG

Edited by bdallas
  • Like 2
jaxcam02 Enthusiast

jaxcam02

Posted
Posted

The GM round ones are my favorite. I've had them on all my trucks. It's not not that they look good but they do a good job of protecting the bottom side of the truck from tire sling.20220514_114110.thumb.jpg.65831e80c609085d363a91f0eea1771a.jpg

  • Like 2
pepe48134 Enthusiast

pepe48134

Posted
Posted

Crew Cab 6-Inch Rectangular Assist Steps in Black Part No. : 84676694

$795 from Chevrolet.com and and 20% discount right now with code 'GET20" = $636 + Tax.Install was easy. IMG_7442.jpg.d999c77fe8639ebd3ca4e302393846ac.jpg IMG_7437.jpg.6f84efd027cfbc2e989c622d400ccbf7.jpg

 

 

denny noname Enthusiast

denny noname

Posted
Posted
On 6/14/2022 at 9:14 PM, denny noname said:

I bought mine off ebay and had dealer install. Dealer wanted 800 for theirs,  mine all in 230 alittle over a year ago.

 

20220619_205825.jpg

20220619_205854.jpg

John F. Enthusiast

John F.

Posted
Posted

Got these from Realtruck.com  Havoc HS2 Black Hoop Step.  Love them  Powder coated aluminum About $500 ( in Feb.)  Took me about 30 min to install start to finish.  

side steps.jpg

black grill.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AlVeron
      Manufactuer's Defect - Paint Failure - Cherry Red High Country 2021 Suburban

      By AlVeron · Posted

      This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...