Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/14/2023 at 5:42 AM, fondupot said:

 

Damn! Sorry to hear.

 

I'm right around 95,000 miles and my 2.7 seems to be chugging along fine. Knock on wood.

 

Are you still running without the fuses installed???  How is oil consumption???

Posted
17 hours ago, TheRiver said:

 

Are you still running without the fuses installed???  How is oil consumption???

 

I still have the fuses pulled. Oil consumption is still about 1 to 1.5 quarts over the course of my oil changes. My last oil change was done on Friday 12/15. I ran it to 10% on the OLM, It was about 6,400 miles. I don't typically run the oil changes this long, but I a lot driving to get done. I usually have been changing it around 25-20%.

 

This oil change I added around 1.3 quarts over the duration of the 6,400 miles. One time I checked the oil and it was barley on the dipstick.....definitely gotta be fastidious about checking the oil level.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 12/18/2023 at 9:58 AM, fondupot said:

 

I still have the fuses pulled. Oil consumption is still about 1 to 1.5 quarts over the course of my oil changes. My last oil change was done on Friday 12/15. I ran it to 10% on the OLM, It was about 6,400 miles. I don't typically run the oil changes this long, but I a lot driving to get done. I usually have been changing it around 25-20%.

 

This oil change I added around 1.3 quarts over the duration of the 6,400 miles. One time I checked the oil and it was barley on the dipstick.....definitely gotta be fastidious about checking the oil level.

 

With what type of driving do you seem to be losing the oil........................high speed interstate, or stop and go around town/suburbia???

Posted

Not to sound totally crazy, but make sure you guys/gals don't have any leaks.  Oil coolers and lower pans are rather common on these 2.7 Turbos.  

  • Like 1
Posted
55 minutes ago, TheRiver said:

 

With what type of driving do you seem to be losing the oil........................high speed interstate, or stop and go around town/suburbia???

 

About 90% highway driving. Between 70-80mph. I cover several states for my job and requires quite a bit of driving.

 

45 minutes ago, newdude said:

Not to sound totally crazy, but make sure you guys/gals don't have any leaks.  Oil coolers and lower pans are rather common on these 2.7 Turbos.  

 

I've went over the motor as best as I can tell. No leaks that are apparent and obvious. Truck parks in my concrete driveway over the weekends, and there's no drips or anything under the truck. The amount of oil that's getting used would for sure signs if it was leaking from a gasket or the like. The mechanic I bring this truck to says he only has a couple other 2.7's that they service on the regular and he says they do the same thing, burn oil.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, fondupot said:

 The mechanic I bring this truck to says he only has a couple other 2.7's that they service on the regular and he says they do the same thing, burn oil.

 

Is the turbo oil cooled or water cooled??  If oil;  I'll bet that's where she's going, especially if the tailpipe is black inside.  The video you posted of the spark plug change out showed that you're really not getting oil into the cylinders.  What did that take;  about 12" of socket extensions in order to reach the plug???🤣

Posted
3 hours ago, fondupot said:

 

About 90% highway driving. Between 70-80mph. I cover several states for my job and requires quite a bit of driving.

 

 

I've went over the motor as best as I can tell. No leaks that are apparent and obvious. Truck parks in my concrete driveway over the weekends, and there's no drips or anything under the truck. The amount of oil that's getting used would for sure signs if it was leaking from a gasket or the like. The mechanic I bring this truck to says he only has a couple other 2.7's that they service on the regular and he says they do the same thing, burn oil.

 

 

Interesting.  I'm at 18,500mi and so far I've only lost from leaks.  

 

 

12 minutes ago, TheRiver said:

 

Is the turbo oil cooled or water cooled??  If oil;  I'll bet that's where she's going, especially if the tailpipe is black inside.  The video you posted of the spark plug change out showed that you're really not getting oil into the cylinders.  What did that take;  about 12" of socket extensions in order to reach the plug???🤣

 

 

Oil lubed and water cooled.  

Posted
22 hours ago, TheRiver said:

 

Is the turbo oil cooled or water cooled??  If oil;  I'll bet that's where she's going, especially if the tailpipe is black inside.  The video you posted of the spark plug change out showed that you're really not getting oil into the cylinders.  What did that take;  about 12" of socket extensions in order to reach the plug???🤣

 

Yea the socket I bought had a 6" extension on it and I think i had to use another 4" or a 6" extension to get all the way down.

 

I believe the turbo is oil lubricated, and water (coolant) cooled. Not sure else where the oil could be going.

Posted

this is where it is going. i took my air intake off to get at the engine harness. the rubber boot that attaches the air intake to the turbo and the inside of the turbo are soaked in oil .there is a hard plastic line that comes from the back of the engine to the turbo. i don't know if this part off the pcv system but the turbo is sucking oil through that line. what sucks is i complained about the oil leaking out of the turbo outlet and was told it was normal to have some oil there. now i don't have warranty any more , and this is not normal

20231221_111014.jpg

20231221_111519.jpg

20231221_111526.jpg

  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

and this is what the throttle body looks like,it is also coated in oil. i guess i am going to have to develop a catch to try and stop the oil getting in to the engine for now until i can figure out how to solve this problem. there is not much info on how this pvc system works. the funny thing is i let the dealership do the last 2 oil changes and it didn't use any oil. i did  the last oil change at 40% on olm and right now it is at 60% and no oil on the dipstick. this problem has been brewing for awhile as i have had oil leaking out of the turbo outlet pipe which the dealer said was normal. now what ever is causing this is got much worse, might be because of colder weather but this is still not normal and of course i am out of warranty now

20231221_161419.jpg

Edited by silveradosid
more info
  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

My experience has been a lot more oil used in a dealer fill, not sure why, I use Mobil 1 ep usually. Also it doesn’t use oil at lower speeds only with a lot of 75mph + speeds. I suspect it is emissions related and inhaled through the egr/pcv valve. My consumption is very minor though. I still check the oil all the time. I also know the engine retains a lot of oil so you have to let it sit over night if you want to get most of it out. I change my oil every 3500-4000 miles so I ll never run low regardless. Most modern engines use a little oil now a days. 

Edited by Texcl2
  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/22/2023 at 5:45 AM, silveradosid said:

and this is what the throttle body looks like,it is also coated in oil. i guess i am going to have to develop a catch to try and stop the oil getting in to the engine for now until i can figure out how to solve this problem. there is not much info on how this pvc system works. the funny thing is i let the dealership do the last 2 oil changes and it didn't use any oil. i did  the last oil change at 40% on olm and right now it is at 60% and no oil on the dipstick. this problem has been brewing for awhile as i have had oil leaking out of the turbo outlet pipe which the dealer said was normal. now what ever is causing this is got much worse, might be because of colder weather but this is still not normal and of course i am out of warranty now

20231221_161419.jpg

Did you write that the oil smells like fuel?  If so change it more often or go to a different oil to get a better ring and valve guide seal. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,838 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...