Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Some questions about battery longevity....what has been your experience and brand type? Way back in the day, I rarely replaced batteries, they seemed to last forever. Now your lucky to get 4-5 years.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, beetle said:

Some questions about battery longevity....what has been your experience and brand type? Way back in the day, I rarely replaced batteries, they seemed to last forever. Now your lucky to get 4-5 years.

I’ve pondered that question a lot. One of the things they do at the dealership is test the battery while you’re getting service. It does no good. My wife’s car has had two. It’s 12 years old. The first lasted 4 years. The second is still going, identical brand. The car travels the identical route every day. I asked at the 4 year mark on this one. There’re answer it tests good. My wife’s never more than 8 miles away. At 400$ a pop I’ll wait it out. It’s in the trunk, a special battery. Just peachy. 

Edited by KARNUT
Posted

Bought my truck brand new.  First battery lasted 8 mos.  GM replaced under warranty.    Second battery lasted 4 years.  New battery is going on 2 years and is a Costco interstate AGM that I plan on replacing before the 3 year warranty is up.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've seen post before on battery life & it seems to be a hit or miss. My '17 Silverado with a built date of 12-2016 original AC Delco battery lasted till Aug of this year, which was about 5 1/2 years, and it went DEAD, no warning. I replaced it with a Walmart EverStart Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H7 12V, 850 CCA from WalMart $169.84 4 year replacement. Well see how the AGM does.

Our BMW '15 X5 came with (2) AGM batteries, a 90Ah & a 50aH, as BMW rates them by aH instead of CCA. They are going on 7 years old now & still check & function well. The reason for the (2) batteries is for add'l battery hungry options & the 'start/stop' feature that all cars/truck seem to be going to. When due, I'll replace them with AGM's.

I noticed that BMW is now gone to Lithium batteries on their high-end M cars. Replace ment on those are like $1400, out of my price range.

Our '05 330Ci convertibles original battery lasted about 8 years, the 2nd was an Everstart from walmart lasted about 5 years & I replaced it this year with a "special" from RockAuto FVP 94R AGM $113. I had to try it for that price & that's with shipping.

On my '01 540i, the last Everstart battery (Flooded Acid) from Walmart lasted 8 years...Go figure

 

With the ability to ship AGM batteries versus Flooded Acid batteries, you can now shop online for the AGM's & with some stores, shipping is free. (Walmart, Amazon prime) Rock Auto's shipping for a 50# battery isn't outrageous.

Edited by rav3
Posted

typical lead acid battery life is about 3-5 years depending on quality and idle time
AGM about 5-8 depending on quality and idle time

 

worst thing for a battery to do is sit around and do nothing, or be overloaded. 

Posted

I ended up picking up this tester recently because of issues on my motorcycle and the price wasn't bad. It told me right away that my battery was bad so it got replaced. I wanted something I could use as I have several different things that have batteries I need to keep an eye on. I replaced my Silverado battery last year as it was already 5 years old and had indications that it was starting to go bad. I replaced it with an Interstate AGM battery from Costco. I put the tester on this one and it showed that the battery was healthy.

 

KZYEE KS21 Battery Tester 12V 100-2000 CCA Auto Car Battery Load Test Digital Analyzer for Detect Health Faults, Cranking and Charging System https://a.co/heC6I2s

Posted
6 hours ago, m3n00b said:

Bought my truck brand new.  First battery lasted 8 mos.  GM replaced under warranty.    Second battery lasted 4 years.  New battery is going on 2 years and is a Costco interstate AGM that I plan on replacing before the 3 year warranty is up.  

Between the time that I bought my 2015 and the day it was totaled, I've never replaced that battery.

 

With my 2018 (current), I had it 25 months (to the day) and the battery died on me, on my way home from work one night, and seemed fine the next morning, until it died again just a few blocks from the dealership.  Called AAA, they came out, jump started my truck, drove straight to the dealership, and they replaced it for FREE (under warranty).  Going on 4 years and 3 months (ownership) and just over 2 years on the battery, no other issues.  The temperature swing throughout the year, here in the desert, usually wrecks havoc on batteries, usually.  I've been lucky with most of them, lasting 4-6 years.

  • Like 1
Posted

I replaced my OEM battery a little over a month ago, the build date on the truck is like 10/15 or 11/15 I think. So it lasted almost 7 years.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Build date on mine is 3/8/2015 and still has the OEM battery. 

Or 7 years, 8 months, 20 days, 6 hours, 6 seconds

163,000 miles

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I got an email stating my battery was in a "low state of charge". That I should drive it or use a battery charger. 

 

Truck is 2019 Silverado LD 4x4 double cab with 5.3L. Has 15,000 miles on the clock. 

I bought it new in January 2020. 

 

I drove it a few times after the warning and it seemed fine. When I start it the volt meter in the dash is slightly past the center (center is 14 volts) and after driving for 10-15 minutes the needle centers to 14 volts. Does this seem normal? 

 

Is my battery dying already? 

Should I get a new battery and not take a chance with winter already here in Pennsylvania?

Posted
10 minutes ago, poconojoe said:

I got an email stating my battery was in a "low state of charge". That I should drive it or use a battery charger. 

 

Truck is 2019 Silverado LD 4x4 double cab with 5.3L. Has 15,000 miles on the clock. 

I bought it new in January 2020. 

 

I drove it a few times after the warning and it seemed fine. When I start it the volt meter in the dash is slightly past the center (center is 14 volts) and after driving for 10-15 minutes the needle centers to 14 volts. Does this seem normal? 

 

Is my battery dying already? 

Should I get a new battery and not take a chance with winter already here in Pennsylvania?

Charge it up and test it is the only way to know for sure.  The volt meter in the dash doesn't tell you much, you need to measure the cranking amps to be sure.  Unfortunately lead acid battery quality is very hit or miss these days.  AGM batteries do seem to last longer, if they don't fail before the warranty is up.  I just had to replace the batteries in both my Camaros last year, one of them failed in about 8 months after I bought it and was replaced under warranty (AC Delco batteries that I bought at Menards) and then replaced the battery in my truck earlier this year.  It was less than half its rating even after letting it charge more than 24 hours.  The batteries in my Camaros lasted over 9 years but they also spend most of their time in a garage with battery maintainers connected to them.  Truck battery was maybe 4 years old, I went with an AGM for a replacement due to the weight and all the extra stuff you have to remove to get the battery out.  Hopefully it will last a lot longer than the original lead acid battery did.

Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, LDM said:

Charge it up and test it is the only way to know for sure.  The volt meter in the dash doesn't tell you much, you need to measure the cranking amps to be sure.  Unfortunately lead acid battery quality is very hit or miss these days.  AGM batteries do seem to last longer, if they don't fail before the warranty is up.  I just had to replace the batteries in both my Camaros last year, one of them failed in about 8 months after I bought it and was replaced under warranty (AC Delco batteries that I bought at Menards) and then replaced the battery in my truck earlier this year.  It was less than half its rating even after letting it charge more than 24 hours.  The batteries in my Camaros lasted over 9 years but they also spend most of their time in a garage with battery maintainers connected to them.  Truck battery was maybe 4 years old, I went with an AGM for a replacement due to the weight and all the extra stuff you have to remove to get the battery out.  Hopefully it will last a lot longer than the original lead acid battery did.

Thanks for the reply. 

 

I know...I shouldn't procrastinate. 

 

As soon as we get a dry day, I'll hook up a charger. Its snowing out right now. 

 

I'm just surprised this battery is having issues already. I have to look for the build date of my truck. I think it may be on the door jamb, but I'm not sure. And since it's a 2019 LD, it was probably built in 2018. So it's coming up on 5 years, so that's not really unheard of for the end life of a battery, I guess. 

 

Thank goodness for the email warning from GM though. That was a surprising plus. And I'm not even paying for any onstar plans. It's just the standard maintenance you get when you buy the truck. 

Edited by poconojoe
Posted

Is my original battery covered under the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty? 

I have less than a month left! 

I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow. 

Posted
15 hours ago, poconojoe said:

Is my original battery covered under the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty? 

I have less than a month left! 

I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow. 

Should be, had the battery in my 14 replaced under warranty, same with our 16 Tahoe.

 

Just put a new AC Delco Gold in my 18, runs like a new truck again. Amazing how much these trucks like a fresh battery.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...