Jump to content

Nbs Speakers, Which Ones


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've been collecting rewared points from Best Buy and I've got $130!! So, I'm gonna take that money and replace the speakers. I will be leaving the head unit and I doubt I bother with a sub. What I want is clean sound, base and no rattles.

 

What I want to know is,

 

1. Am I wasting my time getting $100 pr speakers or would $50 pair do the job.

2. Is it worth tracing the wire back and installing better quality wire to help also.

3. Are there tweaters installed with a std head unit w/ xm-radio?

4. 2-way or 3-way speakers, is there such thing as a 'Better speaker'

5. Brand names, which to stay away from, which to look at.

 

Also, I hear that standard speakers will not fit, so I need mounting brackets, which ones?

 

Talk to me, I"m getting excited! and can't wait to hear what it's gonna sound like!

Posted

I'm in the same boat.. been looking at Crutchfield.com and I have heard the Alpine SPR's at best buy and they rock. Much better then the Alpine SPS, however I have read from some reviews that the SPR might be too nice of a speaker and wouldn't sound good unless you put an amp to it. I want to change out my speakers as well and have been tossing around the idea of these alternatives:

 

 

Kicker for the rear

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zVw7sqOAkW6/A...p;c=3&tp=95

 

or Alpine SPS

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zVw7sqOAkW6/A...p;c=3&tp=95

 

 

Both are 2 way speakers... don't think I will spend the money on 3 way speakers because I am not installing an amp. You supposedly get a surround sound affect with 3 way speakers. I am also tossing around the idea of installing component speakers in the front... the difference is the tweeter is on the front I pillar and not on the cone of the speaker, which gives you the highs at a better angle or location to your ear. I have no idea what component speaker to go with... The current tweeter in the I pillar clips in to the plastic and is not really adaptable to aftermarket and requires some customization.

 

Read the reviews on Crutchfield... they supposedly send you wiring adapters and mounting brackets.... not sure what Best Buy charges for those or if they have them in stock.

 

If anyone can recommend a good component speaker they have installed using the current tweeter location on the pillar it would be greatly appreciated! Also, any do's or don'ts on the rear speakers. Thanks!

Posted

I'd be up for some recommendations as well! I've got the Bose system and am disgusted with the sound quality. No highs and no bass, I can't even tell if the subwoofer is working.

 

I want to keep the OEM head unit but am willing to put in a new amp and want dual 10 subs for under the rear seat.

Posted

In answer to your first question: has anyone ever been to Newegg.com they always have awesome deals and for about $100 plus shipping you can get all 4 speakers (3 ways - 2 ways for less) 4x6 for rear speakers and 6 1/2" for doors (regular cab). I had 3 and 4 ways in my car I just traded in through and Alpine and a Pioneer deck both sounded awesome, they have some really good deals on decks too. Some of the stuff that sells well is probably out of stock, there is a notification and an ETA on restocking and some of the items are last years nonsellers, (why its so cheap). Here is a link for all the car electronics.

 

I have used factory lines before and they seemed to work very well, the signal unless amplified isn't going to need a higher gauge cable ran, and yea it would be a PITA to DIY.

 

I only think the BOSE system has tweeters, the CD/AM/FM or the CD/MP3/XM doesnt, atleast in the truck I testdrove

 

If I can get quality speakers for the same or less price than cheap 2ways then I will definately go with a 3way, in my car I had 3ways in the doors and 4ways in the rear deck of my car, with a pioneer at first and then an alpine just recently and the pioneer deck seemed to have more depth to the sound than the alpine but both sounded great.

 

+1 for Pioneer, and its pretty much readily available on newegg, i would however go to crutchfield for all the harnesses for the speakers so you could take the new ones out and go back to stock if you ever wanted to sell/trade trucks, or upgrade your speakers later on

Posted
Do 6 x 9's fit in the back??

 

Cruchfield only says 6 1/2's will work.

 

I don't know, Crutchfield is normally really good about what speakers work/fit in your vehicle, I drive a regular cab, I have 6.5s in the doors and 4x6 in the rear corners, so if you have an Ext. Cab or Crew Cab, yours will probably be different than mine, especially if you have anything more than the regular model stereo, ie BOSE system etc....

Posted

I was always told that 6 1/4 were the front on my 99 extended cab. Asked it in the electronics section and thats the answer I got. Never opened the door panel, but I will be soon, and want to order the correct speakers.

Posted

A few things....

 

Do not buy any type of coaxial with more then a tweeter and a woofer. The 3 and 4 ways are nothing but a gimmick and in most cases have lower performance then a 2 way coaxial. The only time you should buy a 3 way set is if it is a matched component set, which includes a midbass, woofer, and tweeter. But if you go that route, make very sure you have sufficient power to get the job done.

 

Generally the 22 awg factory wire is more then enough to carry ~23 watts RMS to speakers. Not really much of a reason to upgrade, unless it just makes you feel better.

 

As far as brand names....Alpine, CDT, Kicker, JL, Premier (Pioneer) all have great sets. But don't let a salesman sell you on a specific set. Here are some tips when picking speakers from a soundboard.

 

1. Make sure all speakers are sampled from the same source unit. Sometimes a salesman will have specific source units set to a certain EQ to highlight certain speakers.

 

2. When you do sample the different sets from the same source unit, make sure the sound control/equalizer is set to dead flat with no attenuation. That way, if a certain set seems to have alot of treble on a soundboard, it is gaurenteed to scream at you and drive you nuts in the truck. Listen for a balanced sound.

 

3. Ask if the dealer has some sort of demo vehicle. A flat soundboard in open air will NOT represent the sound that will be reproduced in a car or truck environment.

 

Also, for those with the Blose system, my suggestion is replace the whole thing.....you will eventually. Trust me.

Posted
I've been collecting rewared points from Best Buy and I've got $130!! So, I'm gonna take that money and replace the speakers. I will be leaving the head unit and I doubt I bother with a sub. What I want is clean sound, base and no rattles.

 

What I want to know is,

 

1. Am I wasting my time getting $100 pr speakers or would $50 pair do the job.

2. Is it worth tracing the wire back and installing better quality wire to help also.

3. Are there tweaters installed with a std head unit w/ xm-radio?

4. 2-way or 3-way speakers, is there such thing as a 'Better speaker'

5. Brand names, which to stay away from, which to look at.

 

Also, I hear that standard speakers will not fit, so I need mounting brackets, which ones?

 

Talk to me, I"m getting excited! and can't wait to hear what it's gonna sound like!

 

I'm with you. I thought my d**n speakers were blown on my truck, so I went as far as taking it to the dealer. They confirmed that they aren't blown, just a bit crappy for music with bass, especially from an MP3 player that can vary from download to download with how sensitive the bass can be....

Posted
I've been collecting rewared points from Best Buy and I've got $130!! So, I'm gonna take that money and replace the speakers. I will be leaving the head unit and I doubt I bother with a sub. What I want is clean sound, base and no rattles.

 

What I want to know is,

 

1. Am I wasting my time getting $100 pr speakers or would $50 pair do the job.

2. Is it worth tracing the wire back and installing better quality wire to help also.

3. Are there tweaters installed with a std head unit w/ xm-radio?

4. 2-way or 3-way speakers, is there such thing as a 'Better speaker'

5. Brand names, which to stay away from, which to look at.

 

Also, I hear that standard speakers will not fit, so I need mounting brackets, which ones?

 

Talk to me, I"m getting excited! and can't wait to hear what it's gonna sound like!

 

Hello All, first post here. I've got alot of info from this board so it is time I gave back.

 

I just replaced the speakers in my 07 NBS crew cab. I went through Crutchfield and went with the Polk DB651's. The speakers are 6.5" for the front and back. The sound is much better. The bass is about the same but the overall sound is much cleaner and not muddy like the stock speakers. The stock speakers in the rear doors are a joke.

 

I don't understand why GM will not use at least a semi quality speaker in their trucks. :cheers:

Posted
In answer to your first question: has anyone ever been to Newegg.com they always have awesome deals and for about $100 plus shipping you can get all 4 speakers (3 ways - 2 ways for less)

I've spent over $10,000 with Newegg.com over the last 4 years...mostly on computer and camera equipment. I wasn't aware they sold car audio. They are nothing short of excellent to deal with. If they have what you want I highly recommend them. They ship quickly and their return policy is excellent in the event you need to send something back.

Posted

What are the speaker sizes in the rear doors of and extended cab truck? I am expecting the fronts are 6.5" like the crew cab. My civic had amazing stock speakers, and no rattling door panels either.

Posted

I know the back speakers are a joke. However, I love nothing more than to pull the truck beside the redneck pool, open the two back doors sit beer cooler on the back and turn xm on.

 

Truck sits there all day jamming, everyone's happy.

 

So far, dunno why but Best buy's saying either Pioneer and local store is saying Memphis. But I don't know why, but for some reason I want a set of Alpine's.

 

I have found though, that BestBuy is gonna be the most expensive, because of all the addon's I need, but If I want to get some cheap speakers, I won't get no cheaper than $140 discount off $160 speakers, then $50 worth of accessories.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It's official. Chevy pulled the covers off the next-gen 2027 Silverado 1500, and we got the first official look.   Full breakdown here: https://www.gm-trucks.com/2027-chevrolet-silverado-official-first-look-specs/   The quick hits: LT is dead. The new core trim is just called "Silverado." Two new V8s, a 5.7L and a 6.6L. No horsepower or torque numbers yet. The 2.7 TurboMax finally gets the 10-speed. ZR2 moves to standard 35s with front and rear lockers. Over 60 inches of dash display on ZR2 and High Country, passenger screen included. Seven trims, three lifted from the factory: ZR2, Trail Boss, and a new Custom Trail Boss.   So let's get into it: 5.7 and 6.6 instead of holding out for a 6.7. Right call? Killing the LT name after all these years: bold, or a mistake? Does the new look land for you, or is it too safe? No power numbers at reveal. Smart tease, or frustrating? What are you ordering on day one?   Drop your first impressions below. 
    • LOL west coast they need to see what the midwest actually has.  We have been holding at 2.99 for a few weeks now.  Even by work they have come down to 3.02 for the past week.
    • Diesel or gas?  The 37s will obviously, drastically reduce mpg, but the gasser will take a bigger hit to mpg, and power.  Rough guess, but I'd estimate at least a  2mpg hit on the diesel, and up to 4on the gasser. Maybe more.    I wouldn't sweat a gear change on a duramax at all, and unlikely on the gasser either. You're obviously not concerned with acceleration or towing, and the 10spd will find itself in the right gear without much hunting, if any.    If towing, mpg and acceleration are a concern, you're doing the wrong mods.  Either leave it alone, or do the lift/tires and let the chips fall where they may. 
    • I understand. It is disturbing to think a manufacture asks so much and gives so little in engineering support. This is not a GM issues, this is a greed issue and one the ALL practice.    My intent was not to remove the wind from anyone's sail but rather to point out the areas deficient so that they can be discussed with improvements the goal. But to do that you have to know the truth and what that truth is.    The commercial interest are honed in on a few select issues in which they control all the variables and are not forthcoming in the least with their customers about the details. Failure is the only thing that drives these people to improvement. One way not to fail it to manage public "expectations". The set a bar they can clear and put their thumbs under the suspenders with chest puffed.... Only the internal data tells the story fully. As we don't have access to that for decades then we have to generate it ourselves. UOA's with data that matters.  
    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...