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Honestly forums really blow everything out of proportion. Usually people join a forum for repair advice or to rant about their car. No one joins to say "Hey! Nothing is wrong with my 6 year old truck! I love it. Bye" I'm also in to hear from higher mileage guys.

I’m surprised this thread is still going. I was informed it wasn’t going to be. This will be my last post on this thread. I started the thread so I’m giving my final thoughts on it. I stand by my original post. Como is proving my point. He’s holding NY hostage. He can’t open without money from the feds. California too. If you do a little research you can find who had the most deaths and where. Totally preventable. And it was prevented in Florida, not New York, Why? Doctors are changing the minds if the shut down was needed and whether there will be a second wave. The cure is worse than the bug and will be felt for a long time. Will there be a second wave? You bet. It’s called the flu. If the blue people had protected the elderly this could have been less fatal. It was easy to predict who was most vulnerable. Remember where it was started? Hysteria was more news worthy. I hope the over 40 million of you and your family gets through this. That domino effect isn’t over yet. That’s it good luck.

Yeah, you’ve got problems of your own lol. Sent from Above

I never imagined that after asking if the benefits of one engine outweigh the other, that people would be yelling at each other about piezoelectric knock sensors.

I had a buddy of mine print up a set of the Vent deflectors that 737mechanic designed so I installed them on my lunch break. Don't mind the dirty floors, I've actually been using the truck to transport people and things around...

Trust me, I wanted a 6.2 with the 10 speed in the worst way. But GM didn't offer that in their lower trims. So first I'd have to pay extra to get into the correct trim, then pay yet again to upgrade power train. Combine that with the fact that Ram's discounts on equivalent packages were much much higher... yeah, I couldn't swing it financially. I mean I have the money, it just didn't make sense to me.

I don't even live here, I own a Ram, lol.

Sorry I haven't been able to work on this much recently, weather has not been cooperating. I finally got around to making the DIY video on how to remove the front grill.

Since there is no DIY for this, I decided to take a few video clips as I was figuring it out during my Denali grill to a glossy black piece swap to make a DIY. Excuse the stuttering, I hadn't eaten all day and had tried several different things. I recorded after I had figured out how to remove everything. It's honestly not that bad, but you'll want 2 people when removing the fog lights and reinstalling that piece because if you're not careful, they'll fall out and scratch your lower bumper! Steps: 1) Pop hood and remove the hood release handle (2x T15 screws). Once screws are removed, handle slides towards front of vehicle and off. 2) Remove 10 plastic push clips along the perimeter of the big plastic cover. Lift straight up when done and plastic piece comes out. 3) For both fender wells, you need to remove the 2x torx screws just on the inside of the fender. 4) With your hand on the front-most bottom part of the fender flare, pull straight out to the side to release the clips. There is a 7 mm screw under the fender flare you need to gain access to. I ended up removing the entire fender flare and then removing the push clips individually, reinstalling them into the fender flair, and then install the fender flair as one piece on re-assembly. 5) Once the 2 torx screws and 1 7mm screw under the fender flare are removed, pull straight out to the side at the corner where the quarter panel meets the front lower bumper/fog light area. It *should* just pop out with some force. One of my sides gave me trouble and I had to use a plastic pick (to avoid damaging paint) to push on the pin to release it once I got it out enough. You then pull along the headlights. The piece in the middle of the fog lights will pop right out if you pull towards the front of the vehicle, or use a plastic pry tool. You MUST undo the fog light connectors from the fog light housing and remove the harness clips from the housing as well. I believe there is only a connector to disconnect on the passenger side but a harness holder/clip and the connector on the driver side. 6) To release the clips connecting this bumper plastic piece to the grill, you'll have to crawl under the truck and pull back the soft plastic cover that you'll see. You can stick a hand in there and release the locking tabs while having a helper support the plastic bumper piece and work together to remove it. The entire piece will come out this way. Note there are 3 plastic clips that hold the plastic in the bumper that will come out with a little force. 7) Remove the 3 (10 mm) bolts on the bottom of the grill that are now exposed. There are 4 (10 mm) bolts on the top of the grill that need to be removed as well. 8 ) You can either release the 3 locking metal clips (left, center and right sides) that hold the bumper in place now or later. I didn't notice a big difference. If you do it now, give a firm and quick jolt towards the front of the vehicle and you'll hear the clip release. Don't pull too far or you could break clips. 9) Grabbing the top of the grill, lift up (not too much force) while pulling towards the front of the vehicle. You have to lift the bumper a little bit before it'll come forward. 10) If you have a camera, undo the 2 (T25) screws holding the camera onto teh grill and then the bumper should be free. Installation is the reverse of removal. Best of luck!

Coming up on 113k on 2016SLT! Put it this way....It runs better than brand new when I got it. AC compressor failed (70k) for me and the center console latch broke recently. At least 5 qty windshields, 2nd set of shoes all around....I am brake freak so I do excessively change out pads so probably 4th set. All Stock other than shocks etc. opps...I did tune out the 4cly/8cy mode to only come on above 42mph PURFECT! These are solid,solid trucks and engines no doubt! 200k is walk in the park on these K1's with routine maintenance. I will be taking mine shortly on a road trip and have no doubts in it's 113k reliability? I have pounded GM V8 platforms for decades.....Longevity,reliability and operating costs there is no comparison.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233200598776 bought off eBay bro lil small but it’ll work (about a inch short on each side or if u spread it out barely cover the full windshield), actually like the way it looks. Not bad for 20$ that for sure

Link for the sunshade? Been looking for a good one and I like how that looks. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Are those pointing up ??? ****** I need me a set , How much ??? ?

My 2015 RCSB 4.3 six speed rolled over 117,000 today. Two minor repairs. A pinion seal that I could have not done and would have taken a lifetime to empty the diff but I can't stand damp seals. $8. Replaced a small plastic 'filler' around the starter that warped and caused some noise. $10 part but $100 to get at it. A few recalls like the seat belt. A power steering module reprogram. I've ignored the ABS brake vacuum calibration. If the pump fails I'll replace it instead of putting a band-aid on it. Everything else has been something I wanted to do, not needed to. Still on the OEM tires and brakes. One set of wiper blades. Some I'm sure think I over maintain her but....I like the results. The longer it runs the better it runs.

I'm several days late, but this past Saturday, I finally had a stainless steel exhaust system welded on. I'm running a Flowmaster Super 44 series muffler, 3 and 1/2 inch tips with a nice sized downpipe. The shop did a great job and it only took them an hour. I'm very happy with the sound. Its not too loud when casually driving, but it sounds great and is loud when you get on it.

I tried but can't tell what's inside...Great looking truck though!

Thank you! The Superlift kit comes with aftermarket upper control arms. It's reasonably priced for what you get.

The Ender 3 pro is a good beginner 3D printer. i bought one as my first printer. i will say that the "trial" material that comes with it is garbage, literally throw that stuff away and run hatchbox at the minimum. Play with the setting for a few days. there is alot of good info out there for this machine.

Not to keep talking in circles here, but I haven't missed your point. I've totally agreed with you that the 6.2 will loaf along happily at times when the 4.3 or 5.3 would be in a lower gear. The point I'm making is that there is nothing wrong with that, and not something I encounter much in day-to-day driving. I've driven trucks with the 5.3 and the 6.2 over the years and to me the "feel" has always been much more stark up until this generation when the transmissions are the same. I drove a 10spd 6.2 Denali and a 10spd 5.3 SLT back to back fully expecting to be lusting after the 6.2. To my surprise, the difference at normal levels of acceleration (i.e. not breaking the law) was imperceptible because the 5.3 is already plenty capable for the job of driving my groceries around. At the end of the day you shouldn't be caring a whole lot if a engine is running at higher RPM or a lower gear, all you should care about is capability and if your chosen engine has the ability to do the task you're asking of it while delivering the economy you need. The differences between the engines only show up when you start getting near the limit of the engines capability, up until then it's just not that big of a deal. And yeah, my truck is kind of an appliance. I didn't buy it for a sporty drive or to have neck-snapping acceleration, I've got other cars for that (see my user name). I bought it so I can tow my TT, haul ****** to the dump, pick up groceries and drive to work occasionally. And that's OK...

I called Bilstein and asked about the 6112 kit and they said the springs are 750# - too stiff for me! I started researching other options and found this. https://atomicfabandperformance.com/product/07-18-gmt900-front-coilover-package/ This setup seems like the best option for someone wanting complete control over the setup! Pick your ride height and he will select the coilover and spring length needed then you select your desired spring rate based on use. He doesn't recommend going any lower than 650# springs. Plus you get to fine tune compression damping and rebound damping! But maybe all that is a moot point if the rear is still stiff as hell. I do have a Deaver Mini pack that I'm thinking about experimenting with. What if I removed the middle leaf spring? The one in between the overload and top main spring. And in it's place put the deaver mini pack? Which is basically three springs. Should overall reduce spring rate and make it more progressive.

Understood. Ram does have an awesome and rock solid Hemi though with an outstanding growl coming from the exhaust on either cold start or just idling, no need for an exhaust system. Sent from Above

Let's resurrect this thread! I too think the front end is entirely too stiff. Combine that with 275/55R20's and it's a bit much. Also, everyone is entitled to their own opinion of how THEIR OWN truck should ride. I don't think there is any place for comments like "wow, why do you drive a truck?" or "you think that's rough! Try owning a 3/4 ton", or worse yet, "buy a Honda Ridgeline". Anyways, I did some sleuthing on GM Parts and found that there are about a dozen different spring options for these trucks. The same for Tahoes, Suburbans, and Escalades. But it's darn near impossible to find the actual spring rate. I think we can all agree that a LT trimmed Tahoe or Suburban rides fantastic all things equal compared to a Silverado/Sierra. The coils that come on the smooth ride package is what I'd consider experimenting with. I think I'm gonna hit up a Tahoe forum and see if anyone has some coils laying around after a coilover swap or something and see it they'd part with them on the cheap.

I purchased a dash mount wireless camera monitor and three cameras from Amazon for towing my TT. It is a 7" monitor that allows me to toggle between the back of my trailer, the back of my truck, and the front bumper. You can display up to four cameras separately or all together. When I'm towing, I leave the trailer camera on and the monitor functions as a rear view mirror. (You'd be surprised how many people hide in a trailer's blind spot!) I sold the trailer and now just use the system's recording and viewing feature through my front camera. It is not discrete or OEM in appearance but, at the time, the price was good and it does the job!

Wait a minute.........that's not the stock tail pipe!!! ??? Borla ATAK cat-back installed. She's got attitude now. I think my neighbors will get some attitude now too......

Again, this isn’t true. It takes the same amount of power to accelerate the same mass at the same rate, no matter the engine or how much power it can produce. Assuming mass, rolling resistance, drag ect. were the same you could take a truck with a 5.3 and a truck with a 6.2, set them side by side, accelerate them at the same rate they would take the exact same amount of power get to the same speed. You’re only using that extra power when you’re commanding more output than the other engine could deliver at a given RPM at WOT. That’s why it’s extra power. I’m pretty happy with my 5.3 because it delivers more than enough power for the workload I require. For day to day driving around town I never come close to maxing out the engine, it’s only when towing that I begin to utilize the full output of the engine and would begin to “feel” any difference.

I'll admit I gun mine at a lot at lights. Maybe not full wot but enough to get it to shift around 4k rpm. It's just how I drive drive I've been accustomed to more power than necessary. I give the truck more gas since I'm used to the ease of acceleration that a 650 HP vette gives you, so I end up pushing the truck more to keep up with leisure acceleration in my Vette lol Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Here is a video explaining WD hitch. He also has sway control added - I have always used this on bigger trailers in past and it is a great addition as well. I would get one if over 7,000 lbs for sure - not expensive and really helps out. No big deal to use one and it does improve towing performance all around. I also have enclosed that I use for track car and/or rzr so 6,500 lbs with rzr and about 8,500 with car and stuff. I have 2019 AT4 and tows great. link:

I have the same situation as you 6.2, 8.5x18 trailer around 3000 lbs and my rzr is not quite as chunky as your ranger but loaded i am 5500-6k i have an anderson weight distribution hitch i use, it rides much more smoothly and more controlled in heavy crosswinds. Without the WDH i get a little squat and is not as stable but that is remedied with the WDH. I previously used a husky centerline WDH and it worked fine but it is very heavy and was a pain in the butt to flip the bars in place and nearly injured myself a couple times doing it, and it was extremely noisy going around turns. I have been using an Anderson WDH for several months now and it is significantly lighter, imperceptibly quiet and easy to hook up. I would highly recommend the Anderson for safety and stability. Previously towed trailer with a V8 grand cherokee and it would not have been possible without the WDH.

Could have been where I already conceded that that 6.2 will out accelerate the 5.3 about 3 post back. I'm not an idiot. You missed it in your youthful excitement grasshopper trying, and failing, to 'school' the old guy That is true. It has a higher reserve. But unless your using that excess CONSTANTLY...so what? Do you normally accelerate faster than the 5.3 is capable of? That is the question. The ONLY question. If you are, I want to be your lawyer. Your going to need one. Truth is, and I don't even know you, you don't use more power than the old iron 4.3 in normal day in day out commuting. Your tying to convince me you drive like John Force at every chance to accelerate and I'm calling HARD. Sit at the end of an on ramp with radar. Time the average pickups time from the rolling entry speed (@ 5 mph) to 70 mph and your gong to find sir most people don't use 1/3 of the available power. They will take over 15 seconds to reach merge speed from a rolling start. A bit less than .2 G's. A Checker cab can do that. Will you do it now and again? Probably. Ever watch that show, "Are you smarter than a 5th grader". How did you do?

Looks totally awesome just the way it is sir. I wouldn’t change a thing. I’ve never been a big fan of High Country models, but I mus5 say that is one very sharp looking rig ! Could you please give us some specs on wheel size,tires, lift or level . Thank you....

Would you do me the favour and put this in writing for everyone to read? ? so long j-ten-ner

Hey everyone, thought I'd drop in here. I'm new to the forum, new to Chevys, and new to pickup truck ownership altogether. Purchased this Trail Boss new a little over a month ago and have since put almost 1300 miles on it. I love it and look for every excuse to get behind the wheel. Now looking for something to tow with it... Bonus fake internet points for someone who can tell me what vehicle is parked in my garage - you can see it in the reflection in the doors. ?

Great looking truck!

There you go. Answered your own question. That is not meant to sound sarcastic at all. Please don't read it that way.

Seems like a lot of trailer for a ranger. Be sure to position load in trailer to get the correct amount of tongue weight. To much or too little can significantly will impact how well it pulls.. A 'test pull' before heading out is always a good idea. Will give the opportunity to changes things if necessary, without spoiling the first part of your trip. As swathdriver suggested, test pull will also give a good chance to do a scale check.

You don't need to disconnect the anti-sway on some brands. I agree that Op should get a proper WDH if he plans to tow such a heavy trailer.

No we don't drive math books. But this world we live in is under the direction of the laws of the Universe those books only explain. Those law are not like the laws of men. They can not be violated. Your understanding or not agreeing makes zero difference to these laws. Fact is if they could be then your truck wouldn't operate at all. Fact is any device is a collection of universal laws being worked out with a precision a human can't even imagine. Obvious to me is you not only do not understand this, which is actually fine, but you have no wish to. That the case I have no reason to continue explaining. Good enough? Great! Then we're done here. Nothing here I disagree with. A little extra power hurts nothing. I like power. Raced for years. Thing is the OP's question was about what is BETTER. Better has nothing to do with absolutes. It's about perception and preference. If a person sees no advantage to a 'difference' then it isn't better to him. Thus in my very first post I asked directly what he meant by better. What he received was everyone else idea of BETTER. My explanations thereafter were to show that for the mundane utility we put our vehicles through the MAJORITY of the time there is no DIFFERENCE and without DIFFERENCE there is no BETTER. Understand? (you don't have to agree)

I'm comparing the 6.2 to the v6, not the 5.3. You don't have to be WOT to notice the difference. Both a v6 and a 6.2 might be going down the same road at the same speed when a hill shows up; as you approach the hill, the 6.2 keeps chugging, the v6 runs out of power and downshifts. Grandma might be holding up traffic and you want to pass her; you drop your foot a little (not even near WOT) in both trucks, the 6.2 shoots forward, the v6 does it more slowly. This is the part of your comment (farther up the thread) which is very very incorrect: We don't drive in a math text book. When you actually get in the trucks and daily drive them, the 6.2 just feels twice as strong. You obviously don't care about it, and that's fine.

Just did that yesterday! Took off everything except the 6.2L on the hood. First time debadging. Really like the look of it.

Who cares why he did what. If he loves his truck then I love his truck. Unless you’re going to spending YOUR money on upgrades for HIS truck why do you care so much. There’s times when you make some good points but just because you have an opinion doesn’t mean it’s gospel. You have a DC. ( At least your said in another post) In my opinion I don’t know why anyone in their right mind would buy one. But that’s just my opinion. If you like it and it makes you happy then I like It and I’m happy. Just be happy for other people when they spend THEIR money to fulfill THEIR “tastes.”

Upfitter switches!

I just filed a complaint, it is extremely dangerous to be backing in a trailer and cannot see your spotter or where your dog is at. You should be able to turn off the camera monitor/screen when you want. When you have a trailer hooked up, you cant use it anyway. I have done the T-shirt cover up just so i can see where i am going.

Got the custom 3 layer LED Cutting Edge Off-road Grille in today.. still I have to wire a switch in but super juiced how much it changed look at the front end! Picture is crap, truck is dirty as hell, still have the rags sitting on my LCA’s because I put my chrome swaybar in today I still have to polish the risers but I’m still pretty juiced how well this grille came out.

More pieces to the puzzle arrived! Woohoo! I’ve slowly been chipping away at my custom air compressor install, re made my own harnesses, completely took apart the supplied harnesses, its been a fun project. One of my last steps is to install the air lines, I still need to buy a short and long stainless steel air line but I needed my air bags to arrive first so I could mount them up and know exactly how long I needed. Air Lift 5000 ultimate bags arrived tonight and I partially assembled them, if it’s not raining tomorrow I’ll throw them in the truck. Never had air bags before, or an onboard air compressor, super stoked!

by popular demand this is a walkthru for rear seat removal if there is anything that may be missing or questions please pm me and I will modify my post I haven't done it this way yet but it should work and only take 10-15 mins to do to start u need to pull all the head rest completely out (buttons on side of support) also there is a tilt button on the headrest itself next u will have to pull the headrest supports out to do this u will put a screwdriver in the slot as pictured below pull toward the front a bit and lift up on the support should slide out fairly easy next fold the bench seat up and remove the 4 10 mm bolts against the back wall (((blue stars))) u will also have to remove the center seatbelt that is a T50 above the jack tools fold the bench back down then with a pick or wire u have to get behind the seat and pull up on the hood latch things (3 near child restraint brackets) (yellow lines in picture above) u will then pull forward on the seat and it should fall off from this point I believe u can access anything u need I removed the bench first when I pulled mine but it should be easier to get to the 18 mm bolts that hold the bench in after removing the back if u have heated rear seats be sure to unplug them on the driver side

The shudder issue doesn’t seem to be an issue in 2020 with the new ATF but they’ve making the 8 speed for a while...guess that’s where I’m like ugh. I’m going to put away $100 a month to make sure I self warranty the truck. ? If I don’t need it then in 5 years I got a trade in and a decent down payment! Only down side is the 20k a year I do. It’s 90% highway so it’s not as tough on the engine and my youthful days of wanna be racing are gone!

I will never buy electric, especially after that psycho Swedish Greta ****** traveled across north america claiming we are ruining her life. She better suck it up because the internal combustion engine is what runs the world.

Good luck on your purchase, whatever you get! Nothing like a new truck!

Finally got mine all together and installed. I used the misc. ignition fuse because I wanted them on whenever the truck was running. Anybody see issues with using that fuse position? Thanks for sharing method and pics on mounting method TXguy.