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Here’s my 2018 Sierra All Terrain. Just got done with lift, wheels, and tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Putting feelers out there on selling my truck. Any interest here? KBB private party books it at $41k in the top end. $39k midrange. 2016 LT - 1500, 5.3 V8 - 39K miles. Options added to be considered an LTZ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Waste of time dude. Most of the same people worried about oil and filter changes and micro filtration. Are slobbering all over themselves over GMs Frankenstein engine’s that only get a couple extra miles per gallon at best. That’s only if you drive slow enough for it to work. My family business used Amsoil and its filters since the 80s. Most our testing was done on Diesel engines that ran at redline for 8-10 hrs a day. That was on pipelines in the most dusty conditions imagined. We double OCIs hours from conventional oil. Never an engine failure. That’s hundreds of engines. Other oils such as redline synthetic was added later. I still go extended with most of my gas engines. There’s been many of those tested too. One more interesting fact I learned dabbling in the salvage yard business in the 90s. Most of the non wrecked cars people brought to us still ran. The biggest killer of automobiles in my area was failing smog. It was easier to buy another used car at a pay as you go lot. Than fixing car that wouldn’t pass inspection. With the possible exception of some of the GM Frankenstein engines. Engine failures aren’t the demise of most vehicles. Way down the list is oil and filters. But it’s fun reading about how people sweat the micro filtration. For the most of the people who read this thread. That may not know better. Don’t buy the cheapest oil and filters. Follow the manufacturers recommended OCIs. With the possible exception of the Frankenstein GM engines or Rams. I’d go with the manufacturers extreme service. There’s a lot going on in those engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grumpy sold me. Going to use the Boss on the Honda due to soot in oil. Purolator One on the truck. Have to use up my Wix filters though.

Here ya go Grumps, I'll let you borrow this

Haven't looked at the configurator yet. Is there an option for a non-leaky rear slider for the 2021s direct from the factory?

Dear Sir MOOK: I enjoy your humor and I do actually listen intently to you. You set such lofty goals my friend and honor me as your benchmark. However I'm a fairly low bar as a standard overall. No one listens to me either. So....I guess we are two peas in a pod and we will trudge toward that million mile mark together. ? Yep, Pepper has a vacuum pump and we are currently at 130K on the old OEM and silent as a church fart. My reason for not as yet updating to the new pump is that this critter is still covered under the extended warranty for yet another 20K. If she makes it that far I will indeed be doing the upgrade. An no, I did not know the screen mesh was different between them. Interesting tidbit of trivia that will come in useful me thinks. Thanks! Speaking of screens. Did you change the one to the VLOM under the pressure switch? Pepper had hers replace at 90,426 miles. That screen is fine as panty hose. Guess what? Looked like new. Imagine that! So why replace it? Well it got destroyed removing it. That thing is really in there for keeps. Used a pick to get it out. On a personal note. Been hot enough for ya there lately in the land of Sun and Sand? With regards to my brother from another mother Grumpy Old Bear

2” lift blocks and Bilstein 5100 shocks went on the back end today. It has a nice stance front to back now in my opinion. Wheels are 20x10 Havok H112 with -24 offset. Tires are Atturo Trailblade MT 33x12.5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had the tires mounted and balanced on the new wheels. Front end alignment done. I should have the rear blocks and Bilstein shocks installed tomorrow. My friends truck is in the background with Mcgaughys lift and 35’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I eneded up getting it wrapped again. Got inspiration from a Google search pic that I included in this post. Pretty sure the owner is a member of the forum. Went wider with the stripes and to the edge of the hood. I think it turned out great. I also had the hood ceramic coated so they say it should last up to 4-5 yrs now. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

No door guards. People guards. Park away from the crowds. Sure, you'll get the car parked next to you when there was plenty of spaces around. IMO they parked out back for the same reason. Besides the walk will do you good.

My driver's side rear brake on my '11 Yukon is making a creaky noise when activated and I'm out of ideas on the cause. I cleaned and lubricated both guide pins but it didn't help. Both pins slide as expected and don't make noise when moved manually. I pulled the caliper again today and inspected and cleaned the piston. The piston seals look fine with no leaking, bulges, etc. The piston surface cleaned up with brake cleaner and depressed easily prior to removal with a c-clamp. There aren't many moving parts so I'm out of ideas other than the entire caliper may be bad. Here's a video with the tire off, truck on stands and my son depressing the pedal fully to the floor. It sounds like an old bed spring. Any ideas are appreciated.

There are three current oils I am aware of whose base oils are PAO and at least 45% POE. AMSOIL is one of these three. Add package aside this alone is a clear advantage over any Group II/Group III or GTL base oil. There is nothing marketing about that FACT. Believing this isn't so is clearly misleading the public.....IMHO....naturally. I used Quaker State as one of my 'go to' oils for a very long time and it never did me wrong either.....until it did. Now I've had a cat fight on my hands with a GM 2.4L as these Group III severe hydrocracked oils varnished my rings to the point of collapse. 5K OCI's and WIX filters. I have seen this level of oil failure from a mineral based oil since oil came in paper cans and we scooped Pennzoil out of lifter galleys with ice cream scoops in the buss garage. GM's pursuit of EPA target tactics like extreme heat and low tension oil rings combine with ridiculous OCI intervals has exceeded the oxidation limits of anything under a Group IV at the advertised OCI's. Even GM has crawfished on these intervals while using SN or SN PLUS Dexos2 approved oils. Now I'm not saying you can't use a Group III but I will tell you, and so will GM that if you do, the OCI needs to be MUCH shorter. They have been unwilling to define 'much shorter' but they have have driven a new OEM API spec...SP and one of the MAIN specifications is a MUCH lower deposit level requirement. They know what's going on. I can also tell you that the babies of my fleet have from early on been on diets of POE based oils and at 300K look new inside. IF I have to change my Valvoline every 3K but my POE every 5K there is no 'cost' to it's use. I pay $9.48 a quart for AMSOIL Pennzoil Ultra Platinum cost about the same. Schaeffer my local distributor has at $12 a quart. Valvoline about $7 a quart. At this price difference and OCI difference the cost of the POE is roughly 20% cheaper in oil and the cost of a filter ever fifth oil change.

Yeah, I'm sure there is a way, but one that is not for the novice.

First trip with new truck. Tows like a dream!

Very nice! Like the accent color too.

It'll be interesting to see the electric Hummer rollout that is due to begin this month.

Pretty sure the GMPE and the Borla Touring are exactly the same. Regardless I love my GMPE. Growls to life on a cold start but isn't going to wake the neighbors. My daughter tells me she likes it when she hears me start the truck from inside the house and knows when I'm leaving for work in the mornings. It turns heads when starting it via remote start in a parking lot but doesn't look silly when a middle aged dad like me climbs behind the wheel. Let's me know it is there when I step on the gas but didn't bother me on a 7 hour drive down the interstate. I also love the look of the quad tips.

I had the dealer install the GMPE and CAI. The GMPE came in a Borla box. See below:

UPDATE: I contacted GM last week - someone reached out to me today. We talked for quite a while. So tomorrow I’m taking it into a dealership not affiliated with the previous two. The GM rep is contacting them to let them know what exactly is going on. I’ll probably drive it with the tech tomorrow so the issues can be ‘replicated’. ??

I went ahead and bought the warranty. I can cancel it for a prorated cost when I sell or trade the truck. I thought it was very good coverage for relatively low cost and with the Duramax 3.0 being fairly new, I thought it was worth it for piece of mind. Bought the truck a little bit ago and just got it home. I love it!

Has anyone seen these yet, or know anything about them? They look pretty interesting, though no doubt will be quite expensive. Always thought the idea of custom brackets for Pelican cases and coolers would be great to have! https://www.pelican.com/us/en/discover/cargo-cases/ Signed up for the email list, so hopefully more will come out soon.

I can tell you since the dealerships usually make money on these, they are negotiable in terms of price. For example, with my current 2019 AT4 I was not going to buy it, but they were pushing it. My original interest rate was 2.3 or 2.4, I forget exactly, but I asked them to lower the interest to cover the cost of the warranty which I have seen them do before. End result is I have a 125,000 mile highest end warranty with zero deductable at my dealership and $100 deductable anywhere else and the net cost was $1/month x 48 months. Don't be restrained at negotiating the warranty is all I'm saying. The final interest rate was 1. Something, so it almost completely covered the warranty. Good luck and enjoy your truck! Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Good grief. After 9 pages Im worn out. I have to take a break and run out to Walmarts to buy a Mobil 1 oil filter for my next oil change........?

The 10 speed is standard on all their models except their base 3.3 work truck motor ( which changes as of 2021 as ALL of their trucks get 10 speeds now regardless.) yeah the 5.0 with 3.73 10 speed in a regular cab hauls the mail . There are a few Youtube guys out there with big whipples making big power.

I'm not aware of any GMT800 trucks having a speed-controlled volume feature from GM. Could it possibly be something has failed on your truck, say perhaps the alternator, so the voltage is varying with engine speed?

Going on fords build and price for the 21 models it is refreshing to have options like ford gives it's buyers. The coyote v8 with 3.73 gears outback and a ten speed sounds like a match made in heaven to me.

Holy crap 2600 for labor. But like you said if you need the vehicle it is what it is. I still like running my tune. The truck is soo much more fun to drive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is with 10" (-19 offset) and 305/55R20. Also this is without the fender flares which come out an extra inch or two. This setup rubbed slightly according to the dealership. I didn't get to see it in person. Once the flares were installed it rubbed badly.

Bret, Vetronix and Bosch long ago transferred production of these to China. So the Chicoms make them today. Mine is from 2017 and is identical to a 2010 Vetronix in function save for the metal PCMCIA slot door. Anyhow, you'll want one with the last software update, 33.004 and with all the cables for testing and powering it up various ways which you will rarely use but they come in handy. You do not NEED the software discs or for them to work, it's just nice to have if you can get it working on a Win XP or Win 7 machine. You also need a Keystone Lite adapter to connect to a modern PC if you want to program modules. So, you can and should buy them anywhere that has good reviews and customer service. When mine arrived, the ODBII adapter was faulty but the seller sent a new one right away. Mine has seen almost continual daily use since and I have replaced the adapters, cable and PCMCIA card and probably need to replace the VCI Module to work on GMT800 style vehicles. Still it's a tough unit for $350 and some are getting them for much less lately delivered. Guys on the TahoeYukon forum have been picking them up from US sellers on Ebay lately too.

filter specs have been published so many times my keyboard is worn out. A few times in this tread alone!

You are absolutely correct. Its just getting past that “paying for it the first time”. Lol. I think I’ll ask santa! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't worry I learned as a yout to set my goals low to avoid disappointment! I look under my throttle body frequently and look there it is.....Won't be long and I will be taking a peek at the screen! I mean 124k and you know it's showing her age...rough idle, sputtering and where is the oil going thing? Must be a Frankenchrist engine I have. Good luck with yours! MOOK

It is very hard for me to wrap my head around how after building gasoline engines for more then 100 years and adding tons of unnecessary features that something as fundamental as valve springs aren't QC'd to a level that this wouldn't be a total embarrassment for a company like GM. Especially when they are installed in engines that are expected to perform at a superior level out of the gate such as a 6.2 equipped truck or a Corvette. We're not buying Kia's here folks.

Yes, i will...i just changed my oil...so it will be awhile. but i will do that when time gets closer...

Superlift has a kit with ucas cheaper than the rough country Sent from my SM-A705U using Tapatalk

I know recently doing mine own breaks the slide pins need to be in the correct order as far as Grooved on top smooth bottom or visa versa depending on your own vehicle and mine were out of wack and caused squeling and abnormal where but not until 20 30,000 miles did I start to notice.. hope this helps figured it was worth a reply

let's see installed the drivers side o-****** handle got a wheel back that was bent and fixed now routed my bass control knob under the steering column and somehow disconnected a wire on the alarm drove over to the alarm shop to get that fixed and on the way back I decided to take her up about 110 to see if my vibration is gone from the wheel being bent and it is 90% gone in the process sped by a highway patrol and promptly received a ticket for 70 in a 65 (lol, he was cool about it after I explained I was "checking for vibration")

I’ve had the same dilemma in the past. For $55 I can’t understand why dealers don’t order all stock vehicles with these. My dealer has a body shop with some experience doing this; though I’m still not certain it would be worth the cost.

Sorry for your issue. Here's a good video on what the cause is with the AFM failure. Best to buy a Ranger AFM disabler & that may eliminate the failure. I hope. https://youtu.be/6GnGNTYY7iU

Thanks to those on here for sharing info to help me make some decisions. Final product was to level the front with ReadyLift 1.75” so I can replace the UCA since I’ve heard of the stock UCA failure and I didn’t want to take that risk. But with that, I couldn’t run my stock Trailboss wheels anymore since it’ll rub the new UCAs. Ended up with Method 309s 0 offset and kept my 295/70/18 Falkens. Here’s a comparison. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

there are some chemicals that can affect it, but oil wont bother it

Schmidty, I thought the AT4's had a 2" lift as well because that's what a guy locally told me, but according to a few different threads on this forum, thats not true. Only the 1500 AT4's have a 2" lift. I'm doing 37's on my AT4 but I think i'm gonna run my stock wheels. I just can't find any wheels that I LOVE, and if I do find something I really like, they are $1000-$2000 per wheel.

Same one I got SON! I just squeezed in 4qts of EZ-Pack in mine couple weeks ago!

Installed Motofab 2.5” front spacer and Kryptonite upper control arms. Rear will be going up 2” as well and hopefully have the new wheels/tires on this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took the wrap off my hood because it started to deteriorate. Lasted about 2.5 yrs in the Texas Sun. I'm not a fan of the all white. It doesn't show off the curves of the hood very well.... Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

No pic, there's a reason why, but does pulling a police Tahoe out of a small ditch count? He spun around on me to stop me for speed, and on his three point turn he slid into the gravel portion and the drive wheel went into the ditch. I turned around and came to his rescue. And no, I didn't get a ticket. It probably helped that I'm also a police officer, but that makes the story less funny.

Just picked this up yesterday 2016 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 crew cab fully loaded every opinion they offer summit white with all black leather interior black 18” fuel wheels 33” nitto grapplers not sure on the size lift maybe 3 to 3 1/2 with bedcover 20% tint full Mbrp 3in exhaust s&b cold air intake w 62,000 miles.. can post more pictures if wanted

Now you asking a lot as I don't know that my opinion is shared by others & it will take a long write-up to explain. 1st off, I'm old school. A retired (plastic tooling) eng. and have been wrenching on cars all my life, so I'm opinionated. Lot's of people feel a "flush" per say, may dislodge debris in the transmission & get stuck somewhere where it'll mess up the transmission. So, I would rather play it safe & not do a flush. Old bimmer DYIer owners have been doing the drain & fill process for years, so I have followed suite. I feel refreshing the fluid is easier on the tranny & me. I read sometime back that the transmission filter will only catch 40-50 micron particles, unlike an oil filter that can go down to 5 microns, so it only filters out big stuff. The longer it's used, it starts catching smaller particles. That's why I leave the filter. As long as fluid can flow through it, it's fine. All the metal particles on the internal magnets aren't going anywhere & the clutch material on the bottom of the pan are stuck there due to surface tension. They aren't going anywhere either. I dissected a OE transmission filter on one of my X3's with 132k & it looked almost brand new inside. The filter media is course and will only stop larger metal particles and they aren't going anywhere either cause there stuck in the filter. The newer Dexron VI fluid is MUCH better than the older versions, with approx. 100% improvements in oxidation, antifoaming and heat degrading. However, it is a thinner fluid (lower viscosity) It just last longer. With that in mind, I do a 5 qt. replacement about every 10k miles by simply sucking it out the dip stick tube. Takes all of 30 mins & will usually do it while doing an oil change. Do some research on LUBEGARD Platinum and then decide on whether it's any good or not for you. FYI, I bought my '17 Silverado 5.3l 6 speed with 30k on it back in Feb. I did the front & rear Diff., transfer case & (3x) drain & fill on the transmission. That gives me a bench mark on fluids from when I bought it, not knowing how it was abused or used while on lease. I also changed the brake fluid, which looked terrible in the reservoir. BTW, brake fluid is hygroscopic. ( absorbs moisture) It needs to be replaced every 2 years. Hope this helps & waiting for the "flaming" on me to begin.?